How to apply asphalt based sound deadening material to your car

This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.

The application of sound deadening material to your car is a very effective way to make your driving experience more comfortable. It will serve to keep out road and engine noise, and keep the sound from your stereo inside the car. Asphalt based sound deadening generally comes in peel-and stick panels. This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.

Applying asphalt-based sound deadener is actually quite simple. Begin by removing any interior trim panels so that you have unobstructed access to the bare metal panels that you will be applying the material to. Before you do anything else, clean the surface well using an alcohol based cleaning product that will not leave a residue. Then, start by forming the material to the contours of the surface before you remove the adhesive backing. Using a heat gun or a high-powered hair dryer, heat the material and press it into the grooves of the metal until you are satisfied that it is in full contact with the floor. This is also a good time to trim the piece to fit and cut holes for any bolts or hardware that you may need access to. Allow the piece to cool, then pick it up and remove the adhesive backing. Line it up with the contours, then place it down gently. At this point do not try to adhere the whole piece at once. Instead, use a narrow roller to work from one side to the other, pressing the piece down into every contour. It may help to use the heat gun during this process. Any air bubbles after the piece is fully adhered should be poked through with a sharp blade, and then rolled out for maximum contact. If you need extra deadening, you can layer the material as many times as space will allow.

Trunk: If you have a subwoofer in your car, it is especially important to apply sound-deadening in the trunk. If you do it right, it will prevent annoying rattles and keep the sound pressure level from the sub from escaping through the trunk. Many manufacturers sell kits that contain a good amount of material for covering your trunk.

You should begin the application in the spare tire well and on the metal floor of the trunk. Work from one side to the other to avoid overlapping, and be sure not to cover up any hardware that will be necessary to secure the spare tire or the cargo floor. When you have finished the floor, peel back the carpet on the sides of the trunk and apply material there. If there are holes cut in the metal, you should cover these up if you do not think you will need access to them in the future. For the trunk lid or hatchback door, remove the panels to gain access to the metal inside. Apply liberally here, as sound tends to rise, but be sure that the extra weight of the material will not counteract the shocks that hold the trunk lid open.

Doors: Sound deadening the doors of almost any car will result in a noticeable improvement in sound levels, especially if your front speakers are located in the door. Not only does most of the road noise come in through the door, but the flimsy sheet metal of the door also acts as a poor acoustic surface, creating distortion in the sound of your stereo.

To counteract this, apply sound deadening to the metal inner skin of the door. You don’t necessarily have to cover everything, but be sure to get the holes and the thinnest parts of the sheet metal. The most important part of the door panels is the area surrounding the speaker. If you have enough clearance from the interior panel, apply a few layers here.

Floor: Applying a sound deadening material to the floor of your car will probably not help make your music any louder; however it will significantly reduce road noise and allow you to hear music and people in your car more clearly.

If you are going to deaden the floor, buy enough material to cover the entire metal. This is an involved process, since you probably should take out your seats and carpet in order to gain access to the whole area. The areas to focus on here are the fenders and the surrounding metal since most of the noise comes from the tires. While you’re doing the floor, it is a good idea to apply material to the engine firewall as well. This will reduce engine noise in the cabin.

Thanks for essortment

Installing a subwoofer in a pre-fabricated enclosure

This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The easiest way to add low-end punch to your car’s stereo is to install a subwoofer. This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The first thing to do is to put the woofer into the box. This should be easy as long as you got the right size enclosure. Before actually screwing down the speaker, be sure to connect the included leads to the terminal in the back of the box. Next, screw the woofer down tight into the front of the box and mount the protective grille directly over the speaker.

Put the box in the trunk. For the best sound, the woofer should be facing the back of the car. To keep it from sliding around, consider using high-strength Velcro strips to secure it to the trunk floor. If this is not possible, L-brackets may be mounted to the cargo floor, but be sure not to put any screws through the side of the box. However you decide to secure it, make sure that it is out of the way of anything you put in the trunk.

Now it is time to install the amplifier. Begin by mounting the unit in the desired location. This should be a flat area with a lot of open space so that the amplifier can cool properly. Do not mount the amplifier on the subwoofer enclosure, as the vibrations from the speaker can damage the internal parts.

The next step is to hook the amp up to power. Before doing this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Hook the long positive power cable for the amp to the positive terminal of the battery. If the cable does not have a fuse, you should install one inline within three feet of the battery connection. Consult the amplifier owner’s manual for the size of the fuse. Run the fused positive cable through the firewall and back into the cabin. Remove any trim panels necessary and pull back the carpet so you can run the cable underneath. Once the cable can reach the amp, trim off any excess, strip the end, and connect it to the positive power terminal of the amplifier. For the negative cable, connect it first to the amplifier, then run it beneath the cargo floor of the trunk and connect it to a ground point on the chassis or floor pan.

Next, you need to connect the amplifier to the head unit. You should do this using the subwoofer pre-amp hookup on your stereo. This can be either a stereo (paired RCA plugs) or mono (single RCA plug) connection. Unless you have a mono subwoofer amp, you will need to use a paired RCA cable to plug into the amp. If your head unit has a mono RCA out, this means you will need to use an RCA mono-to-stereo adapter to plug the stereo cable into the mono jack. Run the RCA cable underneath the carpet on the opposite side of the car from the power lines to avoid interference. When you get the cables back to the amplifier, plug them in at the RCA in terminals. Before putting the carpet and trim back, run a small 16-18 gauge wire from the head unit amp remote connection to the remote control terminal on the amplifier. At this point you can replace the carpet and trim panels to make the installation look clean.

The last step is to plug the subwoofer into the amplifier. To do this, use 12-14 gauge speaker wire. If you have a bridgeable stereo amp, you should bridge the amp by plugging the positive wire into the positive terminal for the left output and the negative wire into the negative terminal of the right output. The actual configuration of the bridge will vary from amp to amp, so read the owners manual for specific instructions. If you have a mono amp, simply connect the positive and negative wires. Finally, plug the wires into the back of the sub. If you have more than one sub, you can run a length of stereo from one sub terminal to the other.

Finally, put the negative terminal back on the battery and fire up your system. You will need to adjust the gain and filters on your amp, if it has them. First, turn on the low pass filter (LPF) option. Then, turn the gain all the way down. Turn up your stereo until the speakers begin to distort, then turn it down just a hair until it no longer distorts. With the stereo playing at this volume, turn up the gain on the amp just until the subwoofer begins to distort. At this point, turn the gain down a bit. That’s it; you’re done, and good luck with your new subwoofer.

Thank for essortment

Ebay tips: buying cars in auctions

Ebay has become THE place to buy and sell almost anything - but what about buying a car? Use these tips and be safe!

Online auctions have become the new way of purchasing almost anything you need, from thimbles to comics to lunchboxes. But what should you consider when purchasing a car through eBay? A few simple tips can make your experience a good one and your investment a sound one.

Many people start their search for a new or used car by limiting their search to vehicles within their State or local area. Most auctions will specify that the new owner must pick up the vehicle from the auction seller's place of residence or store. This could end up making that great sale possibly not much of one if you need to pay for an airline ticket across the country to pick up the car and drive it back, to say nothing of the paperwork involved in transferring the ownership with two or more States involved. The search function in your eBay account can help to limit your choices and save yourself a lot of effort. You'd be surprised at how many local auctions you can find that you would probably never see in your daily paper!

The first and most important information you need to look at is the amount of feedback about the seller. You can see at a single glance if the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, neutral or negative. Take into account that while a sale may have been legitimate and without problems from the auction site's point of view, the seller may have become disgruntled for reasons outside the transaction and left bad feedback in order to erode the seller's reputation. Usually the seller has an opportunity to respond to any negative feedback, but you should take into account just plain old bad feelings possibly accounting for some negative or neutral ratings.

Feel free to contact other customers who have left feedback (be it negative, positive, or neutral) and ask what their experience was like with the seller - did he/she misrepresent the car in any way? Was the car's history accurate and reliable? Were there any problems in transferring ownership or mechanical surprises soon after the purchase? Most customers will respond to your queries, wanting to help or warn other potential buyers about this particular seller.

If you can visit the car itself before placing a bid, do so. Photographs are fine and the buyer may have a slew of them up on eBay, but the only way you can truly assess the condition of the car is to arrive at the seller's lot and kick the tires, as the saying goes. If you can't get to the site itself consider calling up a friend or relative and asking him/her to go and look the car over. If the buyer refuses to allow this, you may wish to reconsider placing a bid for this car at this time. Unfortunately there are always criminals placing imaginary items online for sale, disappearing with the money and never delivering a product. This is why checking feedback is one of the most important things you can do before placing a bid!

So you've seen the car (or sent a friend), you're convinced the car is a good deal and a great buy and you've checked out the seller and know the sale is as legal as it can be. Now, let's bid!

One of the oldest tricks on eBay is the sniper - he/she is a buyer who waits until literally the last few seconds to place a bid, usually snagging the item for sale out from under your nose. In order to avoid being sniped out of your car, be sure to monitor your auction for the last ten minutes at least, and be prepared to enter a counterbid as quickly and as efficiently as possible.

Unfortunately this is where a slow modem can make the difference between winning and losing. A cable modem or another fast communication system is almost a necessity when dealing with online auctions.

Remember that placing a bid on eBay is a legal commitment to purchase that item. While you will have the option to retract your bid if you make a mistake, eBay will frown on you if you make it a habit. As well, many sellers will either refuse to sell to you or complain to eBay, possibly leading to your membership being voided. Don't bid if you're not serious about buying it and don't bid what you can't afford!

So you've placed your bid and you’ve won your dream car! Now what do you do? Well, the first thing NOT to do is dash to the bank and withdraw your cash in small bills, stuffing it into a brown paper bag to deliver it to the seller.

First contact the seller through email and ask that either certified check or money order be used to make the exchange. Personal checks are fine if the buyer is prepared to take the risk of it bouncing, but most transactions should be done in a way that produces paperwork. This protects both you and the seller in case either of you have any disputes in the future regarding the amount exchanged or the ownership of the vehicle in question.

When you arrive at the seller's lot or house to pick up the car, make sure to get ALL of the proper documentation you will need to drive the car home. The State Trooper who stops you on the highway ten miles from your house may not know much about eBay, but he will know the law as it pertains to driving a car without insurance or the proper ownership papers. Remember, buying a car online is the same as if you went down to the local lot and bought it there - the documentation needs to meet the legal requirements of your state for the exchange of the car from one person to another.

Finally, if you are happy with the car and the transaction, please consider leaving positive feedback for the seller. He/she's only reputation on eBay is dependent on the opinions of others, and you will be influencing others who might be considering purchasing their next vehicle from this person. You don't have to leave a personal essay, but feel free to point out the best points about your purchase and why you would recommend this seller to others.

Purchasing a car on eBay can be a daunting experience, but knowing what to look for and what to do before placing a bid can lead to a rewarding and fun exchange. Now instead of being limited to the local papers and the used-car lots you can search across the entire State and the country, if you wish, to find the car of your dreams!

Safety and security-how a car alarm system works

Knowing how the parts of a car alarm work can help us better understand what an alarm system can and can't do for us.
Car alarms are one of the most underappreciated pieces of technology around today. The problem stems from car alarm owners that let their vehicle’s alarm go off until the preprogrammed time expires and the alarm resets itself. This causes most people to ignore sounding car alarms and consider them annoying noisemakers.

However, when you hear a car alarm going off, it is usually due to improperly adjusted impact sensors. The impact sensor is the most common and most problematic sensor. This is a device that senses vibrations which could be caused by someone attempting to break in. These impact sensors have an adjustable sensitivity setting. Often, these sensors are left with the sensitivity set way too high. This condition can cause a car alarm to go off, for example, if another car drives past or if someone bumps his or her car door lightly. To ensure your car alarm’s impact sensor is set properly, remember this rule. It should take a good hard slap to set off the alarm. If the alarm goes off by just bumping your car, the impact sensor requires adjustment. It is necessary for equipment installers to ensure that every impact sensor is not set to sensitive, since this will cut down on the number of false alarms.

The next most common sensor in car alarms is the door sensor. These door sensors trigger the car alarm if any door is opened. This can include the hood and trunk as well, depending on the installed alarms configuration. Door sensors can even be used to protect removable car stereos. Some high-end car alarms also come with optional proximity sensors. A proximity sensor is a device that monitors for motion within its range. If you get too close to the vehicle, the proximity sensor will trigger the alarm. There is also an option where this sensor can be used with a verbal warning. The intruder is given a 10 to 15 second period to back away from the car before the alarm sounds. These talking alarms can really startle an innocent bystander!

There are a few sensors that are still relatively new to the market. The first one is the audio sensor. This sensor monitors for the noise of someone breaking or attempting to break a vehicle’s window. The other one is a temperature sensor. This one is triggered by a sudden increase in temperature inside the car, which is normal when someone enters a car, especially in a colder environment.

It is important to understand what happens when a car alarm is set off. Most everyone is familiar with the loud siren and flashing lights. All car alarms, when engaged, disable the vehicle’s starter. This is the primary defense against car thieves. If they can’t start it, they can’t steal it. Most car alarm systems also come standard with a tilt sensor. This causes the alarm to sound if someone tries to tow the vehicle while the alarm is engaged. This won’t prevent it from happening, but it will draw attention to what is going on. Some car alarms also send an alert to the vehicle owner through a small paging device. This way, the owner can respond to the alarm even if he or she is out of audible range.

Hopefully, by addressing the problem with impact sensor sensitivity setting and discussing some of the primary ways an alarm system can help keep a car from being stolen, we as a society can begin to better appreciate what car alarms are capable of doing for us.

How do tire pressure guages work?

Three basic types of tire gauges, they all work with the same principle. Devices have different readout methods




Maintaining proper air pressure in your car’s tires is a simple preventative maintenance step you can perform to avoid such troubles as bad gas mileage, premature tire wear, and poor tire to road contact. An invaluable tool for this procedure is a tire pressure gauge. And just a note here, don’t trust the gauges connected to the air hose at a service station. They can be notoriously inaccurate due to misuse and mishandling There is a myriad of shapes, sizes, and costs to consider when shopping for a gauge, however, they all boil down to 3 basic types. The dial, digital, and stick. The gauges may look different, and display results differently, but all use the same principal. When the gauge is pressed onto the stem of a wheel, the air pressure in the tire pushes against some type of plunger which in turn actuates the readout section of the gauge assembly. The following article describes the similarities and differences between the different types of gauges.





The first and most common gauge is the stick type, also known as the pen type. On the air input end is a ball or tube shaped body that presses onto the wheel stem. Inside the opening of this ball is a centered pin. This pin pushes against the pin in the valve stem to open the valve, letting air into the gauge. The gauge’s pin is surrounded by rubber to seal the gauge to the valve stem. The gauges long metal tube is lubricated with light oil, and contains a rubber piston that is forced away from the air input end when the gauge is pressed onto the valve stem. The piston is pushed in direct relation to the air pressure coming from the tire. The piston is pushed against a spring that is calibrated in such a way that a certain amount of air will compress it a certain amount. The spring is wound around a stick or rod with gradations printed on it. When the piston pushes the spring and the rod, the rod is pushed out the end of the gauge by a calibrated amount. The user then simply reads the number on the rod. The rod is not connected to the spring or the piston, so when the gauge is removed from the valve stem, the spring returns the piston to its starting point, but the rod stays where it is until the user pushes it back into the body of the gauge. The rod is larger in diameter inside the gauge, so as not to be shot out the end of the tube.



The second type of gauge is the dial type. These gauges are easier to read, but more expensive and less robust than the stick variety. In this gauge, air from the tire enters a C-shaped tube inside the gauge. The air forced into the tube causes it to uncoil, much like a party noisemaker. The end of the tube is connected to an indicator needle by a series of levers and springs. When the tube straightens out, the needle deflects accordingly. Almost all dial gauges have an air bleeder valve; if the air pressure is too great in the tire, hold down the button and air will be released until the desired pressure is achieved.

The third type is the digital tire gauge. These gauges are the easiest to use, they have a direct LCD readout, and some even talk! These gauges use an electronic component known as a strain gauge. Air from the tire goes into the body of the gauge, where it pushes against the strain gauge. The resultant flexing of the strain gauge changes its resistance. This resistance change is input to a microprocessor where the resistance change is converted to a binary signal used to drive LCD readout. These gauges come in a variety of shapes and sizes, are very accurate and very durable.

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Is it safe to buy a rental car?

When you are considering buying a used vehicle, it is important to cover all of your bases and take all options into consideration. Most people don't even think about the buy a rental car option. It is an option with many pros and cons and it is worth it to factor them into your used car purchase decision.

Rental car purchase pros

First things first, as a used buyer you know where this car is coming from. Chances are the car has been kept clean and well maintained during its life as a rental. Any rental service that sells their cars should be able to offer you maintenance records to back that up. In fact it should be insisted upon to ensure that the car has been properly cared for. Pricing is another attractive factor if you want to purchase a rental car. Many of the cars rental agencies will offer for sale are less than a year old and have less than 25,000 miles on them. Do not be suspect when you see a newer model for sale, it does not necessarily indicate that the vehicle is problematic. Rental companies are able to purchase their vehicle at the bare minimum fleet pricing, enabling them to re-sell at very competitive prices. Another pro is the possibility of a warranty still intact with a purchase through a rental car company. Because they generally sell them within a year of purchase and at a reasonable mileage, there is a good chance that there will still be some time left on the manufacturers warranty. Giving the new owner a little peace of mind, especially when you consider the cons of purchasing a rental car.

Rental car purchase cons

Anyone who has rented a car has probably heard this joke, "What's the difference between a rental car and a 4X4? A rental car can go anywhere!" It's funny when you rent a car, but when you are looking to buy a rental car suddenly it's not so funny anymore. This being the biggest con of them all, people are hard on rental cars. The rental companies have no idea what the car actually endures while in the care of the individuals it rents to. Of course they will assure you that the car was not mistreated, but again, anyone who has rented a car knows the kind of abuse they can take.Generally the rental agencies will inspect the car upon its return to their lot to ensure that there has been no damage. However what is reported at that point is largely cosmetic, and while aesthetics are important, it's what's inside that really counts. If you are considering purchasing a rental car, be sure to take it to an outside, unaffiliated mechanic for a through inspection to ensure that the vehicle has not suffered mechanically at the hands of an thoughtless renter.As far as cons go, the vast unknown is really the one to worry about. While cosmetic issues are important, mechanical soundness is truly the bottom line with any used car purchase.

Bottom line a good option

When purchasing a used vehicle, the rental agencies offer a viable option for purchase. Contrary to popular belief previous rental cars can be a great investment for anyone looking for a suitable used vehicle. Having access to maintenance records is a huge plus, and all things considered every vehicle they buy is the rental companies bread and butter. It is good business sense for them to keep them in tip top working order.


About the Author: My name is Paige Filler and I'm a creative writer with a love of all things that go vroom. I do my homework to bring thought and innovation into everything I write about the auto industry. You can find more of my stuff at Cash4UsedCars

Thanks Article Source: http://cararticles.com

Common mistakes people make when buying a car at a dealership

No one ever said buying a car is easy. However, it doesn't have to be hard if you do a little homework first. There is tons of information about how to buy a car from a dealership, but here we thought we'd try a different tactic. Here we will show you some of the common mistakes people make at dealerships and how to avoid them.



Common mistakes

We may not cover them all, but here are some of the most common mistakes that will probably cost you money.


Falling in love

Lets face it, emotion has no place in any business transaction. Unfortunately car shopping and purchasing can easily be guided by emotions.

I'm not singling women out, because I am one, but the fact remains we tend to be the more emotionally driven gender. I must confess that emotion played a huge part in my last vehicle purchase.

Needless to say that now, as I tear up every time I have to fill my gas tank, I wish I had purchased with my head instead of my heart.

Keep your emotions in check. Be sure to react to fact rather than feeling. It is important to love what you drive. Like with people, superficial feelings don't last but that uncomfortable drivers seat, or the squeaky sound under the hood will.


Not planning ahead

This is self explanatory. Research is king folks, the more you do the more you know, and knowledge is power. Car salesmen pressure will be easier to resist if you know your product.


Not taking a drive

Truly the most important part of the process is a test drive. Anyone who skips this vital step should not have the luxury of complaining when the vehicle they purchase doesn't suit them.


Focusing on monthly payments

One of the oldest gimmicks in any sales mans repertoire is selling the package (full of stuff you don't need) by breaking it down into monthly payments. It seems like they are being helpful when they ask you how much you can afford a month, however this is all part of their selling process.

Frankly waiting until you hit a dealership to consider your financing options is like showing up for a midterm unprepared. Have a ceiling price in your head, and make sure you have a calculated feel for the associated monthly payments.

If you can, apply for bank funding before you begin to shop. This will not only get you the best interest rate, but will also allow you to shop independent of dealership finance departments.


Good and bad options

No car dealership purchase would be complete without the salesmen pushing extras and options. Some of which are worth it, some not. Things such as rustproofing, stain resistant treatments for fabrics, and paint clear coats are all extras that carry a hefty price tag and no real economical value.

Safety features are a different story and clearly worth the money. Options like side airbags, anti-lock brake system (ABS), and electronic stability control (ESC) could potentially be worth all the money in the world.


Use your salesman

The person trying to sell you a car doesn't have to be your enemy, keeping your emotions out of the equation will help to ensure a smoother purchase. Your salesman is a wealth of information about the brand, the model, not to mention the options that you do want.

Ask questions, gather information from all possible sources. Chances are the salesman has driven every car on the lot multiple times. Ask their opinion, ask why, knowing what you want will help you zero in on important information that could influence your purchase.


About the Author: My name is Paige Filler and I'm a creative writer with a love of all things that go vroom. I do my homework to bring thought and innovation into everything I write about the auto industry. You can find more of my stuff at Cash4UsedCars.com

Thanks Article Source: http://cararticles.com

How to store your motorcycle during winter

This article gives step-by-step instructions on how to put your motorcycle up for the season.

Motorcycling isn’t a winter activity. Yes, there are the brave and foolhardy who try riding through the winter in places like Maine or Alaska, but for most of us winter means an end to our motorcycling season.

This article will give you step-by-step instructions on how to put your motorcycle up for the season. Storing your bike improperly could have disastrous effect, especially for those who live in areas with harsh environmental changes. Remember to perform a thorough safety check at the beginning of every season to ensure you bike has not sustained damage through the winter. Take special note of your tires, which may have become dry rotted depending on the care you took when you put your machine into storage.

First, clean and wax your machine. Inspect your bike for any loose nuts or bolts as you wash it and replace any parts that seem damaged. Use a good quality hand wax to help cut down on damage that might occur to your bike due to atmospheric changes. Use a leather cleaner / preserved on your seat and rubber hoses, but do not apply any to the tires.

Clean and lube or wax your chain, making sure to de-gunk it where it has collected road debris throughout your season. Be sure to apply wax or lube to your entire chain. Lube and wax act as a water repellent and help protect your chain through damp and cold weather. For this same reason it’s a good idea to lube all pivots and apply a thin coat of oil or WD40 on chrome to prevent moisture from eating away at your bike’s precious metals and use a quality lubricate on your cables and switchgears.

Put your bike on its center stand to get as much weight as possible off your tires. Place blocks of wood between your tire and the ground, especially if your machine is being stored out-of-doors. You may also want to spray your fork lowers with WD40 or Marvel Mystery Oil to help prevent rot on your fork seals.

It’s a good idea to replace your oil and filter when you put your bike up, since most oils have a shelf life. Keep in mind that you will be changing your oil again in the early spring, so it’s not necessary to use the most costly oil available.

Top off your gas tank and turn your petcock in the off position. Use a gas stabilizer in your tank and drain your carburetors of any gas that might be in the bowl. Usually there are Philip head screws at the bottom of your bowl with a nipple that has a hose attached to it. If for some reason you cannot reach the screws, run your bike with the petcock off until you use up all the gas in the carburetors.

Plug your exhaust to discourage vermin from nesting in them through the winter and take care to make sure there are no holes through which mice and other critters can burrow their way into your air box and damage your seat.

Remove the spark plugs and fill each cylinder with a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil or two-stroke oil. Screw the plugs back in hand tight and don’t attach your plug wires to remind you to change the plugs first thing in the spring. You may want to kick the bike over with the kill switch engaged to spread the oil throughout the cylinders.

Remove your battery to store in a warm climate or use a tender to keep a trickle charge on it throughout the season. Keep an eye on the electrode levels in each battery cell and fill them if they grow low.

Use a breathable cover even if you store your bike in your garage or basement. Try to operate your controls throughout the winter and move your back wheel so that weight settles on a different spot while the bike is on its center stand. Avoid storing your motorcycle near items that use high levels of electricity like a hot water heater or dryer--the ozone created will dry-rot tires more quickly.

Winter is the best time to catch up on routine maintenance on your machine or perform upgrades. Working on your bike through the winter will help you notice any problems that might develop, like mice making a home out of your air filter, and will help you deal with the seasonal disaffected syndrome that hits every biker who has to go without their machine.

Auto repair: how to safely raise your car at home

Raising your auto might be mandatory to repair it underneath, but, if you do it wrong, it can prove to be deadly. Find out how to safely raise your car with these tips and instructions.

Being a do it yourselfer means that sometimes you'll need to buy special tools or equipment to work on a project with. Cheap products have a reputation of malfunctioning easily and often. Afterall, like the saying goes, "You get what you pay for." So, for your safety's sake, as well as the sake of your wallet, you should buy the best tools and equipment you can afford. Especially when it comes to raising and repairing your auto!

First off, if you need to raise your auto up at home to change the brake pads, replace the muffler, or perform some engine work, then you'll need to use a jack. For do it yourselfers who don't have access to a garage that has a lift in it, then an auto jack is the next best answer. Auto jacks are a common piece of equipment that come in the trunk or storage unit of all autos, trucks, vans, and SUV's. If you repair autos on a regular basis, though, you should invest in a good quality jack to use. If you're not sure how to use one, you should consult the manufacturer's directions. There are different types of jacks, and different ways to properly use them.

Before you even attempt to use a jack, you'll need to park the auto on a hard flat piece of ground.
Shut off the engine and make sure the gear shift is in the "Park" position if the transmission is an automatic type. Otherwise, for an auto that has a manual transmission, move the shifter to "First" gear and engage the parking brake.

Then, use store bought steel blocks, concrete blocks, bricks, or large, square chunks of wood to block either the front or the back wheels. If you're going to raise the front end of the auto with a jack, then block the back tires securely. And, if you're going to raise the back end up, then block the front tires securely. This will help to prevent the auto from rolling either frontwards or backwards while you're working underneath it.

Now, place the jack underneath the auto in the appropriate place as instructed by the manufacturer. This place might be in a slot on the bumper, against the frame of the auto, et cetera. Once you have the jack securely in place, slowly raise the auto up. When the auto is at the height you need it to be, place a pair of jack stands underneath the auto. The stands should be located in close proximity to the jack. Make sure they are raised up so they'll hold the auto in place at the right height. Then, secure them into place and reverse the jack. Then, carefully begin to lower the jack. As you're lowering it, watch to make sure that the stands are going to hold the auto securely. If you see either one wavering or wobbling, stop lowering the auto immediately. Reposition one or both of the stands and repeat this process until you have lowered and removed the jack from underneath the auto.

Remember: the auto can slide off of the jack stands at anytime. While you're working on your auto, make sure that you don't move it too much. And, when you're done with your repair, replace the jack underneath, remove the jack stands, then lower the auto safely to the ground again.

Ebay tips: buying cars in auctions

Ebay has become THE place to buy and sell almost anything - but what about buying a car? Use these tips and be safe!

Online auctions have become the new way of purchasing almost anything you need, from thimbles to comics to lunchboxes. But what should you consider when purchasing a car through eBay? A few simple tips can make your experience a good one and your investment a sound one.

Many people start their search for a new or used car by limiting their search to vehicles within their State or local area. Most auctions will specify that the new owner must pick up the vehicle from the auction seller's place of residence or store. This could end up making that great sale possibly not much of one if you need to pay for an airline ticket across the country to pick up the car and drive it back, to say nothing of the paperwork involved in transferring the ownership with two or more States involved. The search function in your eBay account can help to limit your choices and save yourself a lot of effort. You'd be surprised at how many local auctions you can find that you would probably never see in your daily paper!

The first and most important information you need to look at is the amount of feedback about the seller. You can see at a single glance if the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, neutral or negative. Take into account that while a sale may have been legitimate and without problems from the auction site's point of view, the seller may have become disgruntled for reasons outside the transaction and left bad feedback in order to erode the seller's reputation. Usually the seller has an opportunity to respond to any negative feedback, but you should take into account just plain old bad feelings possibly accounting for some negative or neutral ratings.

Feel free to contact other customers who have left feedback (be it negative, positive, or neutral) and ask what their experience was like with the seller - did he/she misrepresent the car in any way? Was the car's history accurate and reliable? Were there any problems in transferring ownership or mechanical surprises soon after the purchase? Most customers will respond to your queries, wanting to help or warn other potential buyers about this particular seller.

If you can visit the car itself before placing a bid, do so. Photographs are fine and the buyer may have a slew of them up on eBay, but the only way you can truly assess the condition of the car is to arrive at the seller's lot and kick the tires, as the saying goes. If you can't get to the site itself consider calling up a friend or relative and asking him/her to go and look the car over. If the buyer refuses to allow this, you may wish to reconsider placing a bid for this car at this time. Unfortunately there are always criminals placing imaginary items online for sale, disappearing with the money and never delivering a product. This is why checking feedback is one of the most important things you can do before placing a bid!

So you've seen the car (or sent a friend), you're convinced the car is a good deal and a great buy and you've checked out the seller and know the sale is as legal as it can be. Now, let's bid!

One of the oldest tricks on eBay is the sniper - he/she is a buyer who waits until literally the last few seconds to place a bid, usually snagging the item for sale out from under your nose. In order to avoid being sniped out of your car, be sure to monitor your auction for the last ten minutes at least, and be prepared to enter a counterbid as quickly and as efficiently as possible. Unfortunately this is where a slow modem can make the difference between winning and losing. A cable modem or another fast communication system is almost a necessity when dealing with online auctions.

Remember that placing a bid on eBay is a legal commitment to purchase that item. While you will have the option to retract your bid if you make a mistake, eBay will frown on you if you make it a habit. As well, many sellers will either refuse to sell to you or complain to eBay, possibly leading to your membership being voided. Don't bid if you're not serious about buying it and don't bid what you can't afford!

So you've placed your bid and you’ve won your dream car! Now what do you do? Well, the first thing NOT to do is dash to the bank and withdraw your cash in small bills, stuffing it into a brown paper bag to deliver it to the seller.

First contact the seller through email and ask that either certified check or money order be used to make the exchange. Personal checks are fine if the buyer is prepared to take the risk of it bouncing, but most transactions should be done in a way that produces paperwork. This protects both you and the seller in case either of you have any disputes in the future regarding the amount exchanged or the ownership of the vehicle in question.

When you arrive at the seller's lot or house to pick up the car, make sure to get ALL of the proper documentation you will need to drive the car home. The State Trooper who stops you on the highway ten miles from your house may not know much about eBay, but he will know the law as it pertains to driving a car without insurance or the proper ownership papers. Remember, buying a car online is the same as if you went down to the local lot and bought it there - the documentation needs to meet the legal requirements of your state for the exchange of the car from one person to another.

Finally, if you are happy with the car and the transaction, please consider leaving positive feedback for the seller. He/she's only reputation on eBay is dependent on the opinions of others, and you will be influencing others who might be considering purchasing their next vehicle from this person. You don't have to leave a personal essay, but feel free to point out the best points about your purchase and why you would recommend this seller to others.

Purchasing a car on eBay can be a daunting experience, but knowing what to look for and what to do before placing a bid can lead to a rewarding and fun exchange. Now instead of being limited to the local papers and the used-car lots you can search across the entire State and the country, if you wish, to find the car of your dreams!

How to research a car lease

Learn how to research a car lease. Knowing if leasing is right for you will save you time and money.

In order to research a car lease, you need to understand what leasing is and how it works. When you lease a car, you are paying for the use of it over a certain period of time. Of course, this sounds like renting, but the two are not the same. Leasing starts at a minimum of twenty-four months, whereas renting can be a minimum of one day.

When leasing a vehicle, you and the dealer come to an agreement on a purchase price just as you would if you were to buy the vehicle. Then, you sign a leasing contract, and the dealer sells the car to a leasing company at the price you have agreed upon. The dealer acts as the agent between you and the leasing company. So based on the agreed-upon price, the leasing company then leases the car to you. The negotiated price becomes very important as it determines your monthly payments.

When you sign a leasing contract, you are agreeing to make regular payments each month, insure the car, maintain the upkeep, and pay taxes and licensing fees. Also, you agree to keep the car typically twenty-four, thirty-six, or forty-eight months. When your lease expires, you return the car to the leasing company and either lease out a new car, buy out the car you were leasing, or walk away.

When researching a car lease, it is important you compare leasing to buying in order to figure out which method of financing is the right one for you. Leasing finances the use of the car, while buying finances the purchase. Each one has its pros and cons. Deciding which is best for you is dependent upon your own preference and personal situation.

If driving a new car every two to three years with no major repair risks and lower monthly payments is more important to you, then leasing may be your option. If ownership and long-term cost is more important, think toward the path of buying the car. The following are important benefits of car leasing.

1. Lower monthly payments

2. A new car every two to three years

3. Fewer maintenance problems with a new car

4. Little or no down-payment required

5. Sales tax spread out and paid with monthly payments in most states

6. No hassles with selling your car

Even if the benefits of leasing appeal to you, also consider the following questions. If you answer yes to any of them, it could be a sign that leasing may not be for you.

1. Is there a chance you’ll want to end your lease early? If so, there are always early termination fees, and you will also have to pay all remaining monthly payments that are due on your contract.

2. Do you drive over 15,000 miles per year? When leasing, you can only drive 10,000 to 15,000 miles per year depending on your contract.

3. Do you fail to treat your cars with good care? There are always fees you will pay for turning in a leased car that is damaged past its’ normal wear and tear.

4. Do you want to modify your car? You cannot customize or repaint your leased car.

5. Do you want to own your car? You won’t build up equity when leasing because you are not paying with a goal of ownership.

6. Do you have a credit score that is flawed? You must have a good credit history to receive a smaller or no down payment, along with a low monthly payment.

It is also a good idea to research the two types of leases. A closed-end lease is the most common lease and lets you return the car when the contract ends. This type of lease assumes you will drive the car 12,000 miles per year and not be abusive towards it. Thus, the residual value at the end of the lease will be predictable. Open-end leases are mostly for commercial business leasing. This means the lessee takes the financial risks and is responsible for paying the difference between estimated residual value and market value when the lease contract is up.

Knowing the benefits and disadvantages of leasing a car should help you decide if it is right for you. Understanding the leasing process will help you make an informed decision about whether it suits you better than buying.

Auto questions: how harley-davidson works

Long cylinders, a unique crankshaft and a large frame distinguish a Harley-Davidson from the essential motorcycle mechanism of engine, transmission and wheels.

he first Harley-Davidson was made more than a century ago. This motorcycle brand has grown well beyond its tangible dimensions in to a symbol of a cult. Large numbers of people travel over long distances on their Harley-Davidsons for get-togethers on regular annual occasions. The sound of a Harley-Davidson engine running is distinctive and contributes in large measure to the culture that surrounds enthusiasts and proud owners.

The major part of a Harley-Davidson’s functioning is the same as with any other motorcycle. The basics of a motorcycle are an engine that generates power, a transmission that transfers the engine power to wheels for motion and a frame to hold the engine and to seat the driver and a rider.

A motorcycle engine has 2 cylinders in a V shape. Each cylinder has an exhaust. The transmission is through manual gears and uses a chain for a drive. Motorcycle engines do not have mufflers to reduce noise or catalytic converters to reduce emission. Power is transmitted from the engine to the back wheel. Disc brakes are mounted on the wheels. Suspension is provided for the front of the motorcycle. The frame includes handlebars and a light. A motorcycle has the essential structure of a bicycle with an engine to substitute pedals. The frame is much stronger since it must carry the engine transmission and fuel tank weight and the tires are wider to allow the vehicle to move at speed with safety.

A Harley-Davidson differs in physical features from other motorcycles in the length of its cylinders and the structure of the crankshaft. These design features give a Harley-Davidson high power at low speeds and its distinctive sound. Harley-Davidson has recently developed a new engine in which the 2 cylinders are set at a wider angle to each other. This new engine is water cooled as opposed to air-cooling conventionally used in motorcycles and has overhead camshafts. These features give the engine more power and a higher RPM capability. Harley-Davidsons are generally bigger and heavier than most other motorcycles. This new engine will add concrete evidence to the image that a Harley-Davidson conjures. However Harley-Davidson continues to set itself apart from its competitors by working to develop its intangible advantages more than introducing new models, as has been the norm in the automotive industry.

A Harley-Davidson is a sturdy, large and powerful motorcycle that is meant to be a treasured possession and a statement of values and style, rather than a simple means of transportation. However it does offer specific and concrete benefits of speed, power and comfortable rides over long distances. It is one of the most enduring and well-loved brands in any product category in the world. Many owners invest in adding custom features to their Harley-Davidsons. The exhaust system and the frame are common objects of adding a personal touch to a Harley-Davidson. Its large size lends itself to the use of imaginative color combinations to make a Harley-Davidson stand out in a crowd, even if among others of its kind.

Car audio and stereo: how to choose the best new head unit

Choosing the best aftermarket head unit to replace your factory stereo can be very confusing, but these tips can help you review your options.

Before you begin searching for the perfect stereo, make sure you know what you already have. If your factory head unit is about two inches tall and seven inches wide, it is single DIN size. Single DIN is the size that most head units come in. If your old head unit is not single DIN size, you will either have to purchase an adapter to fit a single DIN head unit or buy a head unit specially made to fit in the oversized slot. Take this into consideration when you are browsing for your new stereo.

The most obvious thing to look for is the functionality of the head unit. All units will contain a radio, but many people want to be able to play media. Ask yourself how you will listen to music. Will you need a CD player or a tape deck? Are you planning on adding satellite radio in the future? Will you ever listen to an MP3 CD? Do you need an auxiliary port to plug in external music sources? Decide what capabilities you absolutely need, and what you can do without. Now you should have a basic idea of what you are looking for.


Unless your system contains external amplifiers, the power of the internal amp is vital. Power is measured in terms of watts, and there are generally two power measurements for any head unit. The first measurement, peak watts, is insignificant. It is the second measurement, RMS watts, that will determine the actual power of your stereo. In most cases, the powerful head units will have cleaner and louder sound, but it is also important that the head unit does not produce more power than your speakers can handle. If you have any questions about this, be sure to ask around where you buy the unit, because blown speakers can get expensive.

Next, consider whether you plan on making future upgrades to your system in the future. If you plan on adding external amplifiers, try to find a head unit with pre-amp out jacks. These will make the connection much easier when the time comes. There are varying power levels for the pre-out jacks, ranging from 2-10 volts. Generally speaking, the higher the voltage the cleaner the sound will be, but don’t go overboard on 8 volt pre-outs if you do not plan on putting a high quality amp on the other end. Also, look at the number of pre-out jacks. Two jacks means you can amplify one set of speakers, four jacks can amplify all four speakers, and a fifth jack will allow the addition of a subwoofer. Again, be realistic; there is no point in paying for jacks that you will not use.

One area that you should not shy away from dropping cash on are the security features, especially if you live in an urban area. There are many different theft deterrent devices available, the most basic of which is the removable faceplate. This will allow you to take the faceplate with you when you leave the car, rendering the stereo useless to potential thieves. If you are prone to losing things, a better choice might be a stealth face, which simply turns into a black face when you turn off the car, giving the appearance that the stereo is non-functional. In high-theft areas, consider a stereo with a built in alarm that goes off when someone tries to remove the unit. Whatever you do, be sure your investment is protected.

Another thing to consider when choosing a head unit is the sound controls. Unless you have an external equalizer you will probably be using the built-in EQ settings. You will be better able to customize the sound of your stereo if you choose a unit with many equalizer bands. If simplicity is your thing, look for easy to use treble and bass controls. Also, if you listen to a lot of bass-heavy rap or rock, look for a bass boost function. Controlling the sound your stereo makes can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be.

Before you make the final decision on your new head unit, always remember to look at the controls. Are the buttons laid out in a logical way? It is important that you are able to find the controls without taking your eyes off the road. Be sure that the menus and settings are easy to find. Make sure that the buttons do not feel cheap and easily breakable. Finally, check out the looks of the unit. The display should be big and easy to read at a glance. Also, if you care about the fit and trim of your car, try to find a unit that will match the interior.

Go with the unit that feels right to you. This will be the piece of your stereo that you interact with on a daily basis. It needs to fit the specs you have decided upon, but ultimately picking the perfect head unit comes down to personal taste. If you have to sacrifice a bit of power to get a unit you really like, that’s fine. In the end you will be happier with your choice.