Care for car

How to apply asphalt based sound deadening material to your car

2010-07-12T23:48:00.006+07:00

This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.

The application of sound deadening material to your car is a very effective way to make your driving experience more comfortable. It will serve to keep out road and engine noise, and keep the sound from your stereo inside the car. Asphalt based sound deadening generally comes in peel-and stick panels. This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.

Applying asphalt-based sound deadener is actually quite simple. Begin by removing any interior trim panels so that you have unobstructed access to the bare metal panels that you will be applying the material to. Before you do anything else, clean the surface well using an alcohol based cleaning product that will not leave a residue. Then, start by forming the material to the contours of the surface before you remove the adhesive backing. Using a heat gun or a high-powered hair dryer, heat the material and press it into the grooves of the metal until you are satisfied that it is in full contact with the floor. This is also a good time to trim the piece to fit and cut holes for any bolts or hardware that you may need access to. Allow the piece to cool, then pick it up and remove the adhesive backing. Line it up with the contours, then place it down gently. At this point do not try to adhere the whole piece at once. Instead, use a narrow roller to work from one side to the other, pressing the piece down into every contour. It may help to use the heat gun during this process. Any air bubbles after the piece is fully adhered should be poked through with a sharp blade, and then rolled out for maximum contact. If you need extra deadening, you can layer the material as many times as space will allow.

Trunk: If you have a subwoofer in your car, it is especially important to apply sound-deadening in the trunk. If you do it right, it will prevent annoying rattles and keep the sound pressure level from the sub from escaping through the trunk. Many manufacturers sell kits that contain a good amount of material for covering your trunk.

You should begin the application in the spare tire well and on the metal floor of the trunk. Work from one side to the other to avoid overlapping, and be sure not to cover up any hardware that will be necessary to secure the spare tire or the cargo floor. When you have finished the floor, peel back the carpet on the sides of the trunk and apply material there. If there are holes cut in the metal, you should cover these up if you do not think you will need access to them in the future. For the trunk lid or hatchback door, remove the panels to gain access to the metal inside. Apply liberally here, as sound tends to rise, but be sure that the extra weight of the material will not counteract the shocks that hold the trunk lid open.

Doors: Sound deadening the doors of almost any car will result in a noticeable improvement in sound levels, especially if your front speakers are located in the door. Not only does most of the road noise come in through the door, but the flimsy sheet metal of the door also acts as a poor acoustic surface, creating distortion in the sound of your stereo.

To counteract this, apply sound deadening to the metal inner skin of the door. You don’t necessarily have to cover everything, but be sure to get the holes and the thinnest parts of the sheet metal. The most important part of the door panels is the area surrounding the speaker. If you have enough clearance from the interior panel, apply a few layers here.

Floor: Applying a sound deadening material to the floor of your car will probably not help make your music any louder; however it will significantly reduce road noise and allow you to hear music and people in your car more clearly.

If you are going to deaden the floor, buy enough material to cover the entire metal. This is an involved process, since you probably should take out your seats and carpet in order to gain access to the whole area. The areas to focus on here are the fenders and the surrounding metal since most of the noise comes from the tires. While you’re doing the floor, it is a good idea to apply material to the engine firewall as well. This will reduce engine noise in the cabin.

Thanks for essortment

Installing a subwoofer in a pre-fabricated enclosure

2010-07-12T23:43:00.001+07:00

This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The easiest way to add low-end punch to your car’s stereo is to install a subwoofer. This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The first thing to do is to put the woofer into the box. This should be easy as long as you got the right size enclosure. Before actually screwing down the speaker, be sure to connect the included leads to the terminal in the back of the box. Next, screw the woofer down tight into the front of the box and mount the protective grille directly over the speaker.

Put the box in the trunk. For the best sound, the woofer should be facing the back of the car. To keep it from sliding around, consider using high-strength Velcro strips to secure it to the trunk floor. If this is not possible, L-brackets may be mounted to the cargo floor, but be sure not to put any screws through the side of the box. However you decide to secure it, make sure that it is out of the way of anything you put in the trunk.

Now it is time to install the amplifier. Begin by mounting the unit in the desired location. This should be a flat area with a lot of open space so that the amplifier can cool properly. Do not mount the amplifier on the subwoofer enclosure, as the vibrations from the speaker can damage the internal parts.

The next step is to hook the amp up to power. Before doing this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Hook the long positive power cable for the amp to the positive terminal of the battery. If the cable does not have a fuse, you should install one inline within three feet of the battery connection. Consult the amplifier owner’s manual for the size of the fuse. Run the fused positive cable through the firewall and back into the cabin. Remove any trim panels necessary and pull back the carpet so you can run the cable underneath. Once the cable can reach the amp, trim off any excess, strip the end, and connect it to the positive power terminal of the amplifier. For the negative cable, connect it first to the amplifier, then run it beneath the cargo floor of the trunk and connect it to a ground point on the chassis or floor pan.

Next, you need to connect the amplifier to the head unit. You should do this using the subwoofer pre-amp hookup on your stereo. This can be either a stereo (paired RCA plugs) or mono (single RCA plug) connection. Unless you have a mono subwoofer amp, you will need to use a paired RCA cable to plug into the amp. If your head unit has a mono RCA out, this means you will need to use an RCA mono-to-stereo adapter to plug the stereo cable into the mono jack. Run the RCA cable underneath the carpet on the opposite side of the car from the power lines to avoid interference. When you get the cables back to the amplifier, plug them in at the RCA in terminals. Before putting the carpet and trim back, run a small 16-18 gauge wire from the head unit amp remote connection to the remote control terminal on the amplifier. At this point you can replace the carpet and trim panels to make the installation look clean.

The last step is to plug the subwoofer into the amplifier. To do this, use 12-14 gauge speaker wire. If you have a bridgeable stereo amp, you should bridge the amp by plugging the positive wire into the positive terminal for the left output and the negative wire into the negative terminal of the right output. The actual configuration of the bridge will vary from amp to amp, so read the owners manual for specific instructions. If you have a mono amp, simply connect the positive and negative wires. Finally, plug the wires into the back of the sub. If you have more than one sub, you can run a length of stereo from one sub terminal to the other.

Finally, put the negative terminal back on the battery and fire up your system. You will need to adjust the gain and filters on your amp, if it has them. First, turn on the low pass filter (LPF) option. Then, turn the gain all the way down. Turn up your stereo until the speakers begin to distort, then turn it down just a hair until it no longer distorts. With the stereo playing at this volume, turn up the gain on the amp just until the subwoofer begins to distort. At this point, turn the gain down a bit. That’s it; you’re done, and good luck with your new subwoofer.

Thank for essortment

Ebay tips: buying cars in auctions

2008-02-20T21:39:00.002+07:00

Ebay has become THE place to buy and sell almost anything - but what about buying a car? Use these tips and be safe!

Online auctions have become the new way of purchasing almost anything you need, from thimbles to comics to lunchboxes. But what should you consider when purchasing a car through eBay? A few simple tips can make your experience a good one and your investment a sound one.

Many people start their search for a new or used car by limiting their search to vehicles within their State or local area. Most auctions will specify that the new owner must pick up the vehicle from the auction seller's place of residence or store. This could end up making that great sale possibly not much of one if you need to pay for an airline ticket across the country to pick up the car and drive it back, to say nothing of the paperwork involved in transferring the ownership with two or more States involved. The search function in your eBay account can help to limit your choices and save yourself a lot of effort. You'd be surprised at how many local auctions you can find that you would probably never see in your daily paper!

The first and most important information you need to look at is the amount of feedback about the seller. You can see at a single glance if the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, neutral or negative. Take into account that while a sale may have been legitimate and without problems from the auction site's point of view, the seller may have become disgruntled for reasons outside the transaction and left bad feedback in order to erode the seller's reputation. Usually the seller has an opportunity to respond to any negative feedback, but you should take into account just plain old bad feelings possibly accounting for some negative or neutral ratings.

Feel free to contact other customers who have left feedback (be it negative, positive, or neutral) and ask what their experience was like with the seller - did he/she misrepresent the car in any way? Was the car's history accurate and reliable? Were there any problems in transferring ownership or mechanical surprises soon after the purchase? Most customers will respond to your queries, wanting to help or warn other potential buyers about this particular seller.

If you can visit the car itself before placing a bid, do so. Photographs are fine and the buyer may have a slew of them up on eBay, but the only way you can truly assess the condition of the car is to arrive at the seller's lot and kick the tires, as the saying goes. If you can't get to the site itself consider calling up a friend or relative and asking him/her to go and look the car over. If the buyer refuses to allow this, you may wish to reconsider placing a bid for this car at this time. Unfortunately there are always criminals placing imaginary items online for sale, disappearing with the money and never delivering a product. This is why checking feedback is one of the most important things you can do before placing a bid!

So you've seen the car (or sent a friend), you're convinced the car is a good deal and a great buy and you've checked out the seller and know the sale is as legal as it can be. Now, let's bid!

One of the oldest tricks on eBay is the sniper - he/she is a buyer who waits until literally the last few seconds to place a bid, usually snagging the item for sale out from under your nose. In order to avoid being sniped out of your car, be sure to monitor your auction for the last ten minutes at least, and be prepared to enter a counterbid as quickly and as efficiently as possible.

Unfortunately this is where a slow modem can make the difference between winning and losing. A cable modem or another fast communication system is almost a necessity when dealing with online auctions.

Remember that placing a bid on eBay is a legal commitment to purchase that item. While you will have the option to retract your bid if you make a mistake, eBay will frown on you if you make it a habit. As well, many sellers will either refuse to sell to you or complain to eBay, possibly leading to your membership being voided. Don't bid if you're not serious about buying it and don't bid what you can't afford!

So you've placed your bid and you’ve won your dream car! Now what do you do? Well, the first thing NOT to do is dash to the bank and withdraw your cash in small bills, stuffing it into a brown paper bag to deliver it to the seller.

First contact the seller through email and ask that either certified check or money order be used to make the exchange. Personal checks are fine if the buyer is prepared to take the risk of it bouncing, but most transactions should be done in a way that produces paperwork. This protects both you and the seller in case either of you have any disputes in the future regarding the amount exchanged or the ownership of the vehicle in question.

When you arrive at the seller's lot or house to pick up the car, make sure to get ALL of the proper documentation you will need to drive the car home. The State Trooper who stops you on the highway ten miles from your house may not know much about eBay, but he will know the law as it pertains to driving a car without insurance or the proper ownership papers. Remember, buying a car online is the same as if you went down to the local lot and bought it there - the documentation needs to meet the legal requirements of your state for the exchange of the car from one person to another.

Finally, if you are happy with the car and the transaction, please consider leaving positive feedback for the seller. He/she's only reputation on eBay is dependent on the opinions of others, and you will be influencing others who might be considering purchasing their next vehicle from this person. You don't have to leave a personal essay, but feel free to point out the best points about your purchase and why you would recommend this seller to others.

Purchasing a car on eBay can be a daunting experience, but knowing what to look for and what to do before placing a bid can lead to a rewarding and fun exchange. Now instead of being limited to the local papers and the used-car lots you can search across the entire State and the country, if you wish, to find the car of your dreams!

Safety and security-how a car alarm system works

2008-02-20T21:36:00.001+07:00

Knowing how the parts of a car alarm work can help us better understand what an alarm system can and can't do for us.
Car alarms are one of the most underappreciated pieces of technology around today. The problem stems from car alarm owners that let their vehicle’s alarm go off until the preprogrammed time expires and the alarm resets itself. This causes most people to ignore sounding car alarms and consider them annoying noisemakers.

However, when you hear a car alarm going off, it is usually due to improperly adjusted impact sensors. The impact sensor is the most common and most problematic sensor. This is a device that senses vibrations which could be caused by someone attempting to break in. These impact sensors have an adjustable sensitivity setting. Often, these sensors are left with the sensitivity set way too high. This condition can cause a car alarm to go off, for example, if another car drives past or if someone bumps his or her car door lightly. To ensure your car alarm’s impact sensor is set properly, remember this rule. It should take a good hard slap to set off the alarm. If the alarm goes off by just bumping your car, the impact sensor requires adjustment. It is necessary for equipment installers to ensure that every impact sensor is not set to sensitive, since this will cut down on the number of false alarms.

The next most common sensor in car alarms is the door sensor. These door sensors trigger the car alarm if any door is opened. This can include the hood and trunk as well, depending on the installed alarms configuration. Door sensors can even be used to protect removable car stereos. Some high-end car alarms also come with optional proximity sensors. A proximity sensor is a device that monitors for motion within its range. If you get too close to the vehicle, the proximity sensor will trigger the alarm. There is also an option where this sensor can be used with a verbal warning. The intruder is given a 10 to 15 second period to back away from the car before the alarm sounds. These talking alarms can really startle an innocent bystander!

There are a few sensors that are still relatively new to the market. The first one is the audio sensor. This sensor monitors for the noise of someone breaking or attempting to break a vehicle’s window. The other one is a temperature sensor. This one is triggered by a sudden increase in temperature inside the car, which is normal when someone enters a car, especially in a colder environment.

It is important to understand what happens when a car alarm is set off. Most everyone is familiar with the loud siren and flashing lights. All car alarms, when engaged, disable the vehicle’s starter. This is the primary defense against car thieves. If they can’t start it, they can’t steal it. Most car alarm systems also come standard with a tilt sensor. This causes the alarm to sound if someone tries to tow the vehicle while the alarm is engaged. This won’t prevent it from happening, but it will draw attention to what is going on. Some car alarms also send an alert to the vehicle owner through a small paging device. This way, the owner can respond to the alarm even if he or she is out of audible range.

Hopefully, by addressing the problem with impact sensor sensitivity setting and discussing some of the primary ways an alarm system can help keep a car from being stolen, we as a society can begin to better appreciate what car alarms are capable of doing for us.

How do tire pressure guages work?

2008-02-20T21:26:00.001+07:00

Three basic types of tire gauges, they all work with the same principle. Devices have different readout methods

Maintaining proper air pressure in your car’s tires is a simple preventative maintenance step you can perform to avoid such troubles as bad gas mileage, premature tire wear, and poor tire to road contact. An invaluable tool for this procedure is a tire pressure gauge. And just a note here, don’t trust the gauges connected to the air hose at a service station. They can be notoriously inaccurate due to misuse and mishandling There is a myriad of shapes, sizes, and costs to consider when shopping for a gauge, however, they all boil down to 3 basic types. The dial, digital, and stick. The gauges may look different, and display results differently, but all use the same principal. When the gauge is pressed onto the stem of a wheel, the air pressure in the tire pushes against some type of plunger which in turn actuates the readout section of the gauge assembly. The following article describes the similarities and differences between the different types of gauges.

The first and most common gauge is the stick type, also known as the pen type. On the air input end is a ball or tube shaped body that presses onto the wheel stem. Inside the opening of this ball is a centered pin. This pin pushes against the pin in the valve stem to open the valve, letting air into the gauge. The gauge’s pin is surrounded by rubber to seal the gauge to the valve stem. The gauges long metal tube is lubricated with light oil, and contains a rubber piston that is forced away from the air input end when the gauge is pressed onto the valve stem. The piston is pushed in direct relation to the air pressure coming from the tire. The piston is pushed against a spring that is calibrated in such a way that a certain amount of air will compress it a certain amount. The spring is wound around a stick or rod with gradations printed on it. When the piston pushes the spring and the rod, the rod is pushed out the end of the gauge by a calibrated amount. The user then simply reads the number on the rod. The rod is not connected to the spring or the piston, so when the gauge is removed from the valve stem, the spring returns the piston to its starting point, but the rod stays where it is until the user pushes it back into the body of the gauge. The rod is larger in diameter inside the gauge, so as not to be shot out the end of the tube.

The second type of gauge is the dial type. These gauges are easier to read, but more expensive and less robust than the stick variety. In this gauge, air from the tire enters a C-shaped tube inside the gauge. The air forced into the tube causes it to uncoil, much like a party noisemaker. The end of the tube is connected to an indicator needle by a series of levers and springs. When the tube straightens out, the needle deflects accordingly. Almost all dial gauges have an air bleeder valve; if the air pressure is too great in the tire, hold down the button and air will be released until the desired pressure is achieved.

The third type is the digital tire gauge. These gauges are the easiest to use, they have a direct LCD readout, and some even talk! These gauges use an electronic component known as a strain gauge. Air from the tire goes into the body of the gauge, where it pushes against the strain gauge. The resultant flexing of the strain gauge changes its resistance. This resistance change is input to a microprocessor where the resistance change is converted to a binary signal used to drive LCD readout. These gauges come in a variety of shapes and sizes, are very accurate and very durable.

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2007-11-16T18:58:00.000+07:00

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2007-11-16T18:47:00.000+07:00

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Is it safe to buy a rental car?

2007-11-15T14:20:00.000+07:00

When you are considering buying a used vehicle, it is important to cover all of your bases and take all options into consideration. Most people don't even think about the buy a rental car option. It is an option with many pros and cons and it is worth it to factor them into your used car purchase decision.

Rental car purchase pros

First things first, as a used buyer you know where this car is coming from. Chances are the car has been kept clean and well maintained during its life as a rental. Any rental service that sells their cars should be able to offer you maintenance records to back that up. In fact it should be insisted upon to ensure that the car has been properly cared for. Pricing is another attractive factor if you want to purchase a rental car. Many of the cars rental agencies will offer for sale are less than a year old and have less than 25,000 miles on them. Do not be suspect when you see a newer model for sale, it does not necessarily indicate that the vehicle is problematic. Rental companies are able to purchase their vehicle at the bare minimum fleet pricing, enabling them to re-sell at very competitive prices. Another pro is the possibility of a warranty still intact with a purchase through a rental car company. Because they generally sell them within a year of purchase and at a reasonable mileage, there is a good chance that there will still be some time left on the manufacturers warranty. Giving the new owner a little peace of mind, especially when you consider the cons of purchasing a rental car.

Rental car purchase cons

Anyone who has rented a car has probably heard this joke, "What's the difference between a rental car and a 4X4? A rental car can go anywhere!" It's funny when you rent a car, but when you are looking to buy a rental car suddenly it's not so funny anymore. This being the biggest con of them all, people are hard on rental cars. The rental companies have no idea what the car actually endures while in the care of the individuals it rents to. Of course they will assure you that the car was not mistreated, but again, anyone who has rented a car knows the kind of abuse they can take.Generally the rental agencies will inspect the car upon its return to their lot to ensure that there has been no damage. However what is reported at that point is largely cosmetic, and while aesthetics are important, it's what's inside that really counts. If you are considering purchasing a rental car, be sure to take it to an outside, unaffiliated mechanic for a through inspection to ensure that the vehicle has not suffered mechanically at the hands of an thoughtless renter.As far as cons go, the vast unknown is really the one to worry about. While cosmetic issues are important, mechanical soundness is truly the bottom line with any used car purchase.

Bottom line a good option

When purchasing a used vehicle, the rental agencies offer a viable option for purchase. Contrary to popular belief previous rental cars can be a great investment for anyone looking for a suitable used vehicle. Having access to maintenance records is a huge plus, and all things considered every vehicle they buy is the rental companies bread and butter. It is good business sense for them to keep them in tip top working order.

About the Author: My name is Paige Filler and I'm a creative writer with a love of all things that go vroom. I do my homework to bring thought and innovation into everything I write about the auto industry. You can find more of my stuff at Cash4UsedCars

Thanks Article Source: http://cararticles.com

Common mistakes people make when buying a car at a dealership

2007-11-15T14:17:00.000+07:00

No one ever said buying a car is easy. However, it doesn't have to be hard if you do a little homework first. There is tons of information about how to buy a car from a dealership, but here we thought we'd try a different tactic. Here we will show you some of the common mistakes people make at dealerships and how to avoid them.

Common mistakes

We may not cover them all, but here are some of the most common mistakes that will probably cost you money.

Falling in love

Lets face it, emotion has no place in any business transaction. Unfortunately car shopping and purchasing can easily be guided by emotions.

I'm not singling women out, because I am one, but the fact remains we tend to be the more emotionally driven gender. I must confess that emotion played a huge part in my last vehicle purchase.

Needless to say that now, as I tear up every time I have to fill my gas tank, I wish I had purchased with my head instead of my heart.

Keep your emotions in check. Be sure to react to fact rather than feeling. It is important to love what you drive. Like with people, superficial feelings don't last but that uncomfortable drivers seat, or the squeaky sound under the hood will.

Not planning ahead

This is self explanatory. Research is king folks, the more you do the more you know, and knowledge is power. Car salesmen pressure will be easier to resist if you know your product.

Not taking a drive

Truly the most important part of the process is a test drive. Anyone who skips this vital step should not have the luxury of complaining when the vehicle they purchase doesn't suit them.

Focusing on monthly payments

One of the oldest gimmicks in any sales mans repertoire is selling the package (full of stuff you don't need) by breaking it down into monthly payments. It seems like they are being helpful when they ask you how much you can afford a month, however this is all part of their selling process.

Frankly waiting until you hit a dealership to consider your financing options is like showing up for a midterm unprepared. Have a ceiling price in your head, and make sure you have a calculated feel for the associated monthly payments.

If you can, apply for bank funding before you begin to shop. This will not only get you the best interest rate, but will also allow you to shop independent of dealership finance departments.

Good and bad options

No car dealership purchase would be complete without the salesmen pushing extras and options. Some of which are worth it, some not. Things such as rustproofing, stain resistant treatments for fabrics, and paint clear coats are all extras that carry a hefty price tag and no real economical value.

Safety features are a different story and clearly worth the money. Options like side airbags, anti-lock brake system (ABS), and electronic stability control (ESC) could potentially be worth all the money in the world.

Use your salesman

The person trying to sell you a car doesn't have to be your enemy, keeping your emotions out of the equation will help to ensure a smoother purchase. Your salesman is a wealth of information about the brand, the model, not to mention the options that you do want.

Ask questions, gather information from all possible sources. Chances are the salesman has driven every car on the lot multiple times. Ask their opinion, ask why, knowing what you want will help you zero in on important information that could influence your purchase.

About the Author: My name is Paige Filler and I'm a creative writer with a love of all things that go vroom. I do my homework to bring thought and innovation into everything I write about the auto industry. You can find more of my stuff at Cash4UsedCars.com

Thanks Article Source: http://cararticles.com

How to store your motorcycle during winter

2007-11-09T13:09:00.000+07:00

This article gives step-by-step instructions on how to put your motorcycle up for the season.

Motorcycling isn’t a winter activity. Yes, there are the brave and foolhardy who try riding through the winter in places like Maine or Alaska, but for most of us winter means an end to our motorcycling season.

This article will give you step-by-step instructions on how to put your motorcycle up for the season. Storing your bike improperly could have disastrous effect, especially for those who live in areas with harsh environmental changes. Remember to perform a thorough safety check at the beginning of every season to ensure you bike has not sustained damage through the winter. Take special note of your tires, which may have become dry rotted depending on the care you took when you put your machine into storage.

First, clean and wax your machine. Inspect your bike for any loose nuts or bolts as you wash it and replace any parts that seem damaged. Use a good quality hand wax to help cut down on damage that might occur to your bike due to atmospheric changes. Use a leather cleaner / preserved on your seat and rubber hoses, but do not apply any to the tires.

Clean and lube or wax your chain, making sure to de-gunk it where it has collected road debris throughout your season. Be sure to apply wax or lube to your entire chain. Lube and wax act as a water repellent and help protect your chain through damp and cold weather. For this same reason it’s a good idea to lube all pivots and apply a thin coat of oil or WD40 on chrome to prevent moisture from eating away at your bike’s precious metals and use a quality lubricate on your cables and switchgears.

Put your bike on its center stand to get as much weight as possible off your tires. Place blocks of wood between your tire and the ground, especially if your machine is being stored out-of-doors. You may also want to spray your fork lowers with WD40 or Marvel Mystery Oil to help prevent rot on your fork seals.

It’s a good idea to replace your oil and filter when you put your bike up, since most oils have a shelf life. Keep in mind that you will be changing your oil again in the early spring, so it’s not necessary to use the most costly oil available.

Top off your gas tank and turn your petcock in the off position. Use a gas stabilizer in your tank and drain your carburetors of any gas that might be in the bowl. Usually there are Philip head screws at the bottom of your bowl with a nipple that has a hose attached to it. If for some reason you cannot reach the screws, run your bike with the petcock off until you use up all the gas in the carburetors.

Plug your exhaust to discourage vermin from nesting in them through the winter and take care to make sure there are no holes through which mice and other critters can burrow their way into your air box and damage your seat.

Remove the spark plugs and fill each cylinder with a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil or two-stroke oil. Screw the plugs back in hand tight and don’t attach your plug wires to remind you to change the plugs first thing in the spring. You may want to kick the bike over with the kill switch engaged to spread the oil throughout the cylinders.

Remove your battery to store in a warm climate or use a tender to keep a trickle charge on it throughout the season. Keep an eye on the electrode levels in each battery cell and fill them if they grow low.

Use a breathable cover even if you store your bike in your garage or basement. Try to operate your controls throughout the winter and move your back wheel so that weight settles on a different spot while the bike is on its center stand. Avoid storing your motorcycle near items that use high levels of electricity like a hot water heater or dryer--the ozone created will dry-rot tires more quickly.

Winter is the best time to catch up on routine maintenance on your machine or perform upgrades. Working on your bike through the winter will help you notice any problems that might develop, like mice making a home out of your air filter, and will help you deal with the seasonal disaffected syndrome that hits every biker who has to go without their machine.

Auto repair: how to safely raise your car at home

2007-11-09T13:05:00.000+07:00

Raising your auto might be mandatory to repair it underneath, but, if you do it wrong, it can prove to be deadly. Find out how to safely raise your car with these tips and instructions.

Being a do it yourselfer means that sometimes you'll need to buy special tools or equipment to work on a project with. Cheap products have a reputation of malfunctioning easily and often. Afterall, like the saying goes, "You get what you pay for." So, for your safety's sake, as well as the sake of your wallet, you should buy the best tools and equipment you can afford. Especially when it comes to raising and repairing your auto!

First off, if you need to raise your auto up at home to change the brake pads, replace the muffler, or perform some engine work, then you'll need to use a jack. For do it yourselfers who don't have access to a garage that has a lift in it, then an auto jack is the next best answer. Auto jacks are a common piece of equipment that come in the trunk or storage unit of all autos, trucks, vans, and SUV's. If you repair autos on a regular basis, though, you should invest in a good quality jack to use. If you're not sure how to use one, you should consult the manufacturer's directions. There are different types of jacks, and different ways to properly use them.

Before you even attempt to use a jack, you'll need to park the auto on a hard flat piece of ground.
Shut off the engine and make sure the gear shift is in the "Park" position if the transmission is an automatic type. Otherwise, for an auto that has a manual transmission, move the shifter to "First" gear and engage the parking brake.

Then, use store bought steel blocks, concrete blocks, bricks, or large, square chunks of wood to block either the front or the back wheels. If you're going to raise the front end of the auto with a jack, then block the back tires securely. And, if you're going to raise the back end up, then block the front tires securely. This will help to prevent the auto from rolling either frontwards or backwards while you're working underneath it.

Now, place the jack underneath the auto in the appropriate place as instructed by the manufacturer. This place might be in a slot on the bumper, against the frame of the auto, et cetera. Once you have the jack securely in place, slowly raise the auto up. When the auto is at the height you need it to be, place a pair of jack stands underneath the auto. The stands should be located in close proximity to the jack. Make sure they are raised up so they'll hold the auto in place at the right height. Then, secure them into place and reverse the jack. Then, carefully begin to lower the jack. As you're lowering it, watch to make sure that the stands are going to hold the auto securely. If you see either one wavering or wobbling, stop lowering the auto immediately. Reposition one or both of the stands and repeat this process until you have lowered and removed the jack from underneath the auto.

Remember: the auto can slide off of the jack stands at anytime. While you're working on your auto, make sure that you don't move it too much. And, when you're done with your repair, replace the jack underneath, remove the jack stands, then lower the auto safely to the ground again.

Ebay tips: buying cars in auctions

2007-11-08T12:30:00.000+07:00

Ebay has become THE place to buy and sell almost anything - but what about buying a car? Use these tips and be safe!

Online auctions have become the new way of purchasing almost anything you need, from thimbles to comics to lunchboxes. But what should you consider when purchasing a car through eBay? A few simple tips can make your experience a good one and your investment a sound one.

Many people start their search for a new or used car by limiting their search to vehicles within their State or local area. Most auctions will specify that the new owner must pick up the vehicle from the auction seller's place of residence or store. This could end up making that great sale possibly not much of one if you need to pay for an airline ticket across the country to pick up the car and drive it back, to say nothing of the paperwork involved in transferring the ownership with two or more States involved. The search function in your eBay account can help to limit your choices and save yourself a lot of effort. You'd be surprised at how many local auctions you can find that you would probably never see in your daily paper!

The first and most important information you need to look at is the amount of feedback about the seller. You can see at a single glance if the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, neutral or negative. Take into account that while a sale may have been legitimate and without problems from the auction site's point of view, the seller may have become disgruntled for reasons outside the transaction and left bad feedback in order to erode the seller's reputation. Usually the seller has an opportunity to respond to any negative feedback, but you should take into account just plain old bad feelings possibly accounting for some negative or neutral ratings.

Feel free to contact other customers who have left feedback (be it negative, positive, or neutral) and ask what their experience was like with the seller - did he/she misrepresent the car in any way? Was the car's history accurate and reliable? Were there any problems in transferring ownership or mechanical surprises soon after the purchase? Most customers will respond to your queries, wanting to help or warn other potential buyers about this particular seller.

If you can visit the car itself before placing a bid, do so. Photographs are fine and the buyer may have a slew of them up on eBay, but the only way you can truly assess the condition of the car is to arrive at the seller's lot and kick the tires, as the saying goes. If you can't get to the site itself consider calling up a friend or relative and asking him/her to go and look the car over. If the buyer refuses to allow this, you may wish to reconsider placing a bid for this car at this time. Unfortunately there are always criminals placing imaginary items online for sale, disappearing with the money and never delivering a product. This is why checking feedback is one of the most important things you can do before placing a bid!

So you've seen the car (or sent a friend), you're convinced the car is a good deal and a great buy and you've checked out the seller and know the sale is as legal as it can be. Now, let's bid!

One of the oldest tricks on eBay is the sniper - he/she is a buyer who waits until literally the last few seconds to place a bid, usually snagging the item for sale out from under your nose. In order to avoid being sniped out of your car, be sure to monitor your auction for the last ten minutes at least, and be prepared to enter a counterbid as quickly and as efficiently as possible. Unfortunately this is where a slow modem can make the difference between winning and losing. A cable modem or another fast communication system is almost a necessity when dealing with online auctions.

Remember that placing a bid on eBay is a legal commitment to purchase that item. While you will have the option to retract your bid if you make a mistake, eBay will frown on you if you make it a habit. As well, many sellers will either refuse to sell to you or complain to eBay, possibly leading to your membership being voided. Don't bid if you're not serious about buying it and don't bid what you can't afford!

So you've placed your bid and you’ve won your dream car! Now what do you do? Well, the first thing NOT to do is dash to the bank and withdraw your cash in small bills, stuffing it into a brown paper bag to deliver it to the seller.

First contact the seller through email and ask that either certified check or money order be used to make the exchange. Personal checks are fine if the buyer is prepared to take the risk of it bouncing, but most transactions should be done in a way that produces paperwork. This protects both you and the seller in case either of you have any disputes in the future regarding the amount exchanged or the ownership of the vehicle in question.

When you arrive at the seller's lot or house to pick up the car, make sure to get ALL of the proper documentation you will need to drive the car home. The State Trooper who stops you on the highway ten miles from your house may not know much about eBay, but he will know the law as it pertains to driving a car without insurance or the proper ownership papers. Remember, buying a car online is the same as if you went down to the local lot and bought it there - the documentation needs to meet the legal requirements of your state for the exchange of the car from one person to another.

Finally, if you are happy with the car and the transaction, please consider leaving positive feedback for the seller. He/she's only reputation on eBay is dependent on the opinions of others, and you will be influencing others who might be considering purchasing their next vehicle from this person. You don't have to leave a personal essay, but feel free to point out the best points about your purchase and why you would recommend this seller to others.

Purchasing a car on eBay can be a daunting experience, but knowing what to look for and what to do before placing a bid can lead to a rewarding and fun exchange. Now instead of being limited to the local papers and the used-car lots you can search across the entire State and the country, if you wish, to find the car of your dreams!

How to research a car lease

2007-11-08T12:25:00.000+07:00

Learn how to research a car lease. Knowing if leasing is right for you will save you time and money.

In order to research a car lease, you need to understand what leasing is and how it works. When you lease a car, you are paying for the use of it over a certain period of time. Of course, this sounds like renting, but the two are not the same. Leasing starts at a minimum of twenty-four months, whereas renting can be a minimum of one day.

When leasing a vehicle, you and the dealer come to an agreement on a purchase price just as you would if you were to buy the vehicle. Then, you sign a leasing contract, and the dealer sells the car to a leasing company at the price you have agreed upon. The dealer acts as the agent between you and the leasing company. So based on the agreed-upon price, the leasing company then leases the car to you. The negotiated price becomes very important as it determines your monthly payments.

When you sign a leasing contract, you are agreeing to make regular payments each month, insure the car, maintain the upkeep, and pay taxes and licensing fees. Also, you agree to keep the car typically twenty-four, thirty-six, or forty-eight months. When your lease expires, you return the car to the leasing company and either lease out a new car, buy out the car you were leasing, or walk away.

When researching a car lease, it is important you compare leasing to buying in order to figure out which method of financing is the right one for you. Leasing finances the use of the car, while buying finances the purchase. Each one has its pros and cons. Deciding which is best for you is dependent upon your own preference and personal situation.

If driving a new car every two to three years with no major repair risks and lower monthly payments is more important to you, then leasing may be your option. If ownership and long-term cost is more important, think toward the path of buying the car. The following are important benefits of car leasing.

1. Lower monthly payments

2. A new car every two to three years

3. Fewer maintenance problems with a new car

4. Little or no down-payment required

5. Sales tax spread out and paid with monthly payments in most states

6. No hassles with selling your car

Even if the benefits of leasing appeal to you, also consider the following questions. If you answer yes to any of them, it could be a sign that leasing may not be for you.

1. Is there a chance you’ll want to end your lease early? If so, there are always early termination fees, and you will also have to pay all remaining monthly payments that are due on your contract.

2. Do you drive over 15,000 miles per year? When leasing, you can only drive 10,000 to 15,000 miles per year depending on your contract.

3. Do you fail to treat your cars with good care? There are always fees you will pay for turning in a leased car that is damaged past its’ normal wear and tear.

4. Do you want to modify your car? You cannot customize or repaint your leased car.

5. Do you want to own your car? You won’t build up equity when leasing because you are not paying with a goal of ownership.

6. Do you have a credit score that is flawed? You must have a good credit history to receive a smaller or no down payment, along with a low monthly payment.

It is also a good idea to research the two types of leases. A closed-end lease is the most common lease and lets you return the car when the contract ends. This type of lease assumes you will drive the car 12,000 miles per year and not be abusive towards it. Thus, the residual value at the end of the lease will be predictable. Open-end leases are mostly for commercial business leasing. This means the lessee takes the financial risks and is responsible for paying the difference between estimated residual value and market value when the lease contract is up.

Knowing the benefits and disadvantages of leasing a car should help you decide if it is right for you. Understanding the leasing process will help you make an informed decision about whether it suits you better than buying.

Auto questions: how harley-davidson works

2007-11-08T12:20:00.000+07:00

Long cylinders, a unique crankshaft and a large frame distinguish a Harley-Davidson from the essential motorcycle mechanism of engine, transmission and wheels.

he first Harley-Davidson was made more than a century ago. This motorcycle brand has grown well beyond its tangible dimensions in to a symbol of a cult. Large numbers of people travel over long distances on their Harley-Davidsons for get-togethers on regular annual occasions. The sound of a Harley-Davidson engine running is distinctive and contributes in large measure to the culture that surrounds enthusiasts and proud owners.

The major part of a Harley-Davidson’s functioning is the same as with any other motorcycle. The basics of a motorcycle are an engine that generates power, a transmission that transfers the engine power to wheels for motion and a frame to hold the engine and to seat the driver and a rider.

A motorcycle engine has 2 cylinders in a V shape. Each cylinder has an exhaust. The transmission is through manual gears and uses a chain for a drive. Motorcycle engines do not have mufflers to reduce noise or catalytic converters to reduce emission. Power is transmitted from the engine to the back wheel. Disc brakes are mounted on the wheels. Suspension is provided for the front of the motorcycle. The frame includes handlebars and a light. A motorcycle has the essential structure of a bicycle with an engine to substitute pedals. The frame is much stronger since it must carry the engine transmission and fuel tank weight and the tires are wider to allow the vehicle to move at speed with safety.

A Harley-Davidson differs in physical features from other motorcycles in the length of its cylinders and the structure of the crankshaft. These design features give a Harley-Davidson high power at low speeds and its distinctive sound. Harley-Davidson has recently developed a new engine in which the 2 cylinders are set at a wider angle to each other. This new engine is water cooled as opposed to air-cooling conventionally used in motorcycles and has overhead camshafts. These features give the engine more power and a higher RPM capability. Harley-Davidsons are generally bigger and heavier than most other motorcycles. This new engine will add concrete evidence to the image that a Harley-Davidson conjures. However Harley-Davidson continues to set itself apart from its competitors by working to develop its intangible advantages more than introducing new models, as has been the norm in the automotive industry.

A Harley-Davidson is a sturdy, large and powerful motorcycle that is meant to be a treasured possession and a statement of values and style, rather than a simple means of transportation. However it does offer specific and concrete benefits of speed, power and comfortable rides over long distances. It is one of the most enduring and well-loved brands in any product category in the world. Many owners invest in adding custom features to their Harley-Davidsons. The exhaust system and the frame are common objects of adding a personal touch to a Harley-Davidson. Its large size lends itself to the use of imaginative color combinations to make a Harley-Davidson stand out in a crowd, even if among others of its kind.

Car audio and stereo: how to choose the best new head unit

2007-09-01T10:52:00.000+07:00

Choosing the best aftermarket head unit to replace your factory stereo can be very confusing, but these tips can help you review your options.

Before you begin searching for the perfect stereo, make sure you know what you already have. If your factory head unit is about two inches tall and seven inches wide, it is single DIN size. Single DIN is the size that most head units come in. If your old head unit is not single DIN size, you will either have to purchase an adapter to fit a single DIN head unit or buy a head unit specially made to fit in the oversized slot. Take this into consideration when you are browsing for your new stereo.

The most obvious thing to look for is the functionality of the head unit. All units will contain a radio, but many people want to be able to play media. Ask yourself how you will listen to music. Will you need a CD player or a tape deck? Are you planning on adding satellite radio in the future? Will you ever listen to an MP3 CD? Do you need an auxiliary port to plug in external music sources? Decide what capabilities you absolutely need, and what you can do without. Now you should have a basic idea of what you are looking for.

Unless your system contains external amplifiers, the power of the internal amp is vital. Power is measured in terms of watts, and there are generally two power measurements for any head unit. The first measurement, peak watts, is insignificant. It is the second measurement, RMS watts, that will determine the actual power of your stereo. In most cases, the powerful head units will have cleaner and louder sound, but it is also important that the head unit does not produce more power than your speakers can handle. If you have any questions about this, be sure to ask around where you buy the unit, because blown speakers can get expensive.

Next, consider whether you plan on making future upgrades to your system in the future. If you plan on adding external amplifiers, try to find a head unit with pre-amp out jacks. These will make the connection much easier when the time comes. There are varying power levels for the pre-out jacks, ranging from 2-10 volts. Generally speaking, the higher the voltage the cleaner the sound will be, but don’t go overboard on 8 volt pre-outs if you do not plan on putting a high quality amp on the other end. Also, look at the number of pre-out jacks. Two jacks means you can amplify one set of speakers, four jacks can amplify all four speakers, and a fifth jack will allow the addition of a subwoofer. Again, be realistic; there is no point in paying for jacks that you will not use.

One area that you should not shy away from dropping cash on are the security features, especially if you live in an urban area. There are many different theft deterrent devices available, the most basic of which is the removable faceplate. This will allow you to take the faceplate with you when you leave the car, rendering the stereo useless to potential thieves. If you are prone to losing things, a better choice might be a stealth face, which simply turns into a black face when you turn off the car, giving the appearance that the stereo is non-functional. In high-theft areas, consider a stereo with a built in alarm that goes off when someone tries to remove the unit. Whatever you do, be sure your investment is protected.

Another thing to consider when choosing a head unit is the sound controls. Unless you have an external equalizer you will probably be using the built-in EQ settings. You will be better able to customize the sound of your stereo if you choose a unit with many equalizer bands. If simplicity is your thing, look for easy to use treble and bass controls. Also, if you listen to a lot of bass-heavy rap or rock, look for a bass boost function. Controlling the sound your stereo makes can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be.

Before you make the final decision on your new head unit, always remember to look at the controls. Are the buttons laid out in a logical way? It is important that you are able to find the controls without taking your eyes off the road. Be sure that the menus and settings are easy to find. Make sure that the buttons do not feel cheap and easily breakable. Finally, check out the looks of the unit. The display should be big and easy to read at a glance. Also, if you care about the fit and trim of your car, try to find a unit that will match the interior.

Go with the unit that feels right to you. This will be the piece of your stereo that you interact with on a daily basis. It needs to fit the specs you have decided upon, but ultimately picking the perfect head unit comes down to personal taste. If you have to sacrifice a bit of power to get a unit you really like, that’s fine. In the end you will be happier with your choice.

Car audio and speakers: how to install an amp

2007-09-01T10:49:00.000+07:00

A basic guide to selecting and installing an amplifier for your car stereo.

Adding an amplifier to a preexisting head unit is probably your best bet to pump up the volume and clarity of your car’s sound system. You can install an amp whether your radio is old or new, and best of all: it is a relatively easy process.

Before you begin, check the back of your head unit for pre-amp outs. These are RCA stereo connections that should come in pairs. If you do not have pre-amp capability (no RCA out jacks), then make sure that the amp you choose is able to accept speaker, or line-level connections. In addition, make sure that the rated RMS power of the amp is less than or equal to the RMS power of the speakers you plan to connect it to. When you buy the amp, be sure to buy a power connection set and a patch cord to match—a salesperson should be able to help you with this.

Now that you have the amp, the first step is to choose a location inside your car to mount it. Typically, this means in the trunk, but it is possible to put it in the cabin if you have enough room. Be careful not to choose a location that will expose the amp or wires to direct heat, and be sure that the amp will not be covered by carpet. Your amp will get hot in the course of use, and it is essential that it has enough space for air to circulate over and around it.

Once the amp is secured in a good location, it is time to start wiring. Before you even think about where to run the wires, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. Speaking of the battery, this would be a good time to take out the power connection kit and connect the long, (in most cases) red wire to the positive terminal of your battery. If you do not see an easy way to do this, it might be a good idea to invest in some inexpensive gold-plated terminals that will allow multiple connections from your positive terminal. Once the positive wire is connected directly to the battery, run it back toward the cabin of the car. Once again, avoid sources of heat, and try to keep the cable away from places that are likely to be splashed by water from the tires. If the cable already has a fuse on it, make sure the fuse stays in the engine compartment.

If the fuse came separately from the main power cable, you are going to have to cut the cable and patch the fuse in using crimps or a soldering gun. Make sure to use the heat-shrink tubing that probably came with the kit to seal off the connection so that water does not get inside. Now you should be able to run the rest of the cable through the firewall. Make sure to use a rubber grommet if there is any chance the insulated wiring might rub on sharp metal. Once inside the car, run the cable underneath the carpeting and back to wherever you have put your amp.

You can now connect both the long positive cable and the short negative cable to the amp. Find a grounding point within range of the negative cable. If none is available, you can make one by drilling a hole in the floor panel/chassis (be absolutely certain about what lies beneath) and using a nut and bolt to connect the ground wire directly to bare metal. If you can, scrape paint off of the metal before you connect it. Make sure you have a good ground, as this will directly affect the quality of your sound. At this point the amp is wired for power. Now it is time for the sound.

If you are using the RCA pre-outs this is as simple as running a patch cable from the back of the head unit to the amp. If you are using a line-level connection, you need to run speaker wire from the outputs on the back of the head unit to the amp. A tip: if you are hooking up your rear speakers and your amp is in the trunk, you can just use the wires that are already there. This is a simple matter of moving them or lengthening them so that they will reach the amp. Whether you are using a line-level or RCA connection, plan the paths of the sound wires so that they do not run parallel to the power wires. It is best to run power wires on one side of the car, and sound wires on the other. Remember to run the remote amp control (if your head unit or amp supports this) at the same time as the sound wires. Because this wire carries very low current, it shouldn’t be a problem if it is parallel to the sound wires.

Finally, run speaker wire of 16 gauge or less from the speaker outputs on the amp to each speaker you wish to power. Connect the speakers, paying attention to the polarity. Now fire up the stereo and test everything out. Sound alright? If you hear distortion, it is probably caused by interference with the sound wires, so make some adjustments to get the best sound quality. If you hear your engine through your speakers as you rev it, this is caused by a bad ground. Once everything sounds good, set the gain control on the amp so that all of your speakers sound even and balanced. Enjoy your new amp!

Nissan 350 Z วิ่ง 6 วิ กว่า ๆ ขำขำเนอะ อิอิอิ

2007-08-23T21:36:00.000+07:00

Auto safety questions: how nascar safety works

2007-06-13T10:07:00.000+07:00

A discussion of NASCAR safety features from the car's construction to the race itself, including the cockpit, regulations, and track features.

In most states, high-speed driving is considered reckless because of safety hazards. Yet stock car races routinely run faster than one hundred miles per hour, and few injuries result from the most violent crashes. When the National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing (NASCAR) was founded in Daytona Beach, Florida, in 1948, it followed only basic safety conventions. As cars have become faster and more powerful, however, safety restrictions have increased accordingly. Today, NASCAR stock cars incorporate aerospace engineering principles to uphold strict safety standards, and safety regulations are followed from the car’s construction until it crosses the finish line.

NASCAR Safety: Car Construction

Stock cars are built to work with the laws of physics and protect the driver’s life during an accident. At high speeds, cars have up to twenty-five times as much energy as normal driving speeds, and that energy translates to between fifty and one hundred times the force of gravity during a crash. To reduce that energy, stock cars are constructed to absorb the impact while at the same time maintaining enough integrity to minimize flying debris.

A stock car’s tires often have different compositions on the left and right sides, with the left, or interior, tires being softer. This allows the car to lean more heavily on that tire during tight turns, reducing the chance of a skid. Some tires also use a safety shield, an inner liner designed to support the car if the outer tire is ripped away. All four tires are tethered to the car to help keep them attached during a crash.

To keep a car from becoming airborne when it spins, roof strips and flaps have been adapted from airplane technology. Roof strips are one-half inch aluminum strips that run lengthwise to keep a car from flipping, and roof flaps are panels near the rear of the roof that operate by aerodynamic pressure to keep the car grounded. When the car spins or turns backwards, the pressure forces those flaps to raise, disrupting the airflow around the car and creating more downward force to increase the tires’ traction. The spoiler, or metal blade, on the rear of the car operates the same way.

On certain race tracks, such as the Daytona International Speedway in Florida and the Talladega Superspeedway in Alabama, cars are required to use engine restrictor plates. These metal plates restrict the airflow and fuel concentration between the carburetor and the engine, forcing the cars to maintain slower speeds. These two tracks are the longest and fastest used by NASCAR, and such safety precautions are necessary for the drivers as well as the spectators. If unchecked, cars on these speedways could easily exceed two hundred miles per hour, and the walls separating the track from the stands could not withstand such impacts. As an additional precaution, many smaller tracks are using softer barrier walls that can absorb more of the impact and cushion the car in the hopes of lessening the severity of many crashes.

The fuel cell in a NASCAR vehicle is superbly reinforced and nearly leak-proof. It is composed of a flexible bladder surrounded by foam and encased in a metal box. This triple layer of protection minimizes fuel spills, potential fires, and explosions that could result from the twenty-two gallons of fuel carried by these race cars.

Other safety features on stock cars include hood pins to keep the hood closed and attached during crashes, as well as an anti-roll bar, or sway bar, beneath the car to increase stability on tight turns. Cars are also equipped with impact data recorders that record forces, change in speeds, and other instrumental information during an accident. That information can be used to improve safety features in all cars and prevent future accidents.

NASCAR Safety: Cockpit Features

While most of a stock car is designed to crush on impact to absorb the shock and energy of a crash, the inner portion of the car, where the driver sits, is reinforced and outfitted with multiple safety features. Because of this interior steel tubing – the roll cage – many drivers walk away from severe crashes unscathed.

The cockpit contains two kill switches the driver can use during an emergency. A master switch shuts down all the electrical components, and the ignition kill switch shuts down the car’s engine. If necessary, either of these switches can be used to help control or eliminate a fire. Additionally, a fire extinguisher is on hand as well as a switch to release fire suppression chemicals and foam into the cockpit. The driver’s suit and gloves are also flame resistant.

The driver’s seat is specially designed to provide extra support for the head, neck, shoulders, and chest. By spreading the area of contact as much as possible, pressure from a crash can be more evenly distributed across the body, decreasing the overall force. NASCAR also mandates the use of head-and-neck restraints to help prevent excessive jostling and potential injuries. Drivers are required to wear helmets, most of which provide full-face coverage with visors using plastics that are found in bullet-proof glass. The seat belts are stronger than those in ordinary cars, and include two shoulder belts, two waist belts, and a fifth strap between the driver’s legs.
To provide additional protection for the roll cage, the cars use sturdy metal plates called firewalls to separate the cockpit from the engine compartment in the front and the fuel cell in the rear. This helps maintain the integrity of the roll cage. The window net prevents the driver’s head or limbs from being exposed to debris. In an accident, the driver must be able to exit the car quickly, and most cars are equipped with clips that allow the windshield to be swiftly removed if necessary. NASCAR is also developing a roof exit system that could assist drivers if the car comes to rest on its side.

NASCAR Safety: Race Regulations

Like any sport, NASCAR follows strict standards designed to safeguard the participants. The first regulation is the use of the pace car – a car that leads the racers for three warm up laps at the beginning of the race. This warms up the engines and tires of the cars, which helps them reach their peak performance and run more safely. Throughout the race, a series of colored flags are used to communicate with all drivers about track conditions: a yellow flag means hold position and proceed cautiously in single file, a red flag is used to stop the race immediately, and a black flag signals a single car to stop immediately. The blue flag with a diagonal yellow stripe is the most common, and is shown to slower drivers to indicate that they are about to be passed by lead lap cars, to whom they must yield.

Every racing team uses a number of spotters, individuals who watch the entire race and communicate with their driver via radio to warn them of debris and help them pass other cars safely. Members of the pit crew service the car when it refuels, and penalties can be assessed against the team if they fail to perform their duties safely, such as failing to install five lug nuts on each wheel.

Even the track itself is designed for safety. Walls, fences, and steel gates are used to protect spectators. Drivers can be given penalties for unsafe driving, including speeding through the pits, such as being forced to return to the pits safely and come to a complete stop for a full second. While it may not seem like a long penalty, it can easily cost a driver his position in the race. When leaving the pits, drivers must stay below the blend line that connects pit road to the first turn, allowing them to merge safely back into the speeding traffic. This insures that they can accelerate appropriately without forcing other cars to swerve.

Today, NASCAR is not only the fastest moving sport in America, but it is also the fastest growing. From roof flaps to the roll cage to the yellow caution flag, NASCAR focuses on safety for both the participating teams and the spectators. These regulations lead not only to more exciting races with few injuries, but also to safer passenger cars as stock car standards are introduced to regular vehicles. Whether in the pits at Daytona or the driveways of America, NASCAR is working to make all driving a little safer.

Auto questions: how car engines work

2007-06-13T10:05:00.000+07:00

Car engines, also known as internal combustion engines, are designed to do one thing well- turn a crankshaft.

Car engines have a lot in common with electric motors- they both perform one task very well. Both systems are designed to cause a shaft to spin. The force generated by that spinning shaft may be re-routed to perform other functions, but that is the only specific job of a motor or engine. The amazing engineering involved with a car's engine lies more in how that spinning force is achieved.

A car's engine is properly defined as an 'internal combustion engine'. This means that the motor burns its fuel source within its own housing. Other systems designed to turn a shaft (such as a mechanized pulley) may rely on outside fuel sources to run, but a modern car engine is completely self-contained. The combustion of a gasoline/air mixture creates all the energy a car's engine requires.

But how does an engine generate power? It starts with the fuel source. A very powerful chemical compound called gasoline is stored in a holding tank until needed. When a driver places a key into the ignition, an electrical system is activated. Of primary importance is the powerful electric battery stored securely near the engine. When a key is turned, power from this battery goes to a starter assembly. This is basically a strong electric motor with a large gear (bendix) located in front. The starter's gear meshes with a very large gear connected to the shaft assembly of the engine itself.

As the starter starts to spin the flywheel, a mixture of filtered air and atomized gas is sprayed into a series of cylinders located on the top of the engine housing. This gas mixture is ignited by ceramic spark generators (plugs) located at the top of each cylinder. A car may have 8 or more of these cylinders, so they obviously cannot be ignited at the same time. The idea is to stagger the explosions so that each cylinder pushed down on a valve and piston in a precise order. This is accomplished primarily by a distributor- a device that electronically controls the order of sparking. As the gas in each cylinder explodes, the 'floor' of the chamber is pushed down forcefully. This is actually the top of a piston which is connected to the engine's main shaft. Ideally, each piston pushes down on the shaft just ahead of the next one. The shaft itself is designed with protuberances that mechanically force the pistons back up. This action is much like a bicycle pedal being forced back to the top as the opposite pedal is pushed by the rider. The pistons do their work on the down strokes while the crankshaft forces them back up on the upstrokes. Waste fumes from the original explosion are forced out of the cylinder as the piston returns upwards, and the entire cycle is repeated.

The result of all these pistons bearing down is a spinning crankshaft. This main crankshaft has several gear assemblies attached to it, such as a belt drive that powers the car's electrical and coolant systems. Heat generated by the exploding gasoline and the friction of the pistons rubbing against the metal engine must be controlled. The water pump mechanically forces water and special engine coolant to circulate around the engine block. The ultra-hot water is then recycled through a radiator, which dissipates the heat by spreading it over a large surface area. Cooler water is then recirculated into the engine block.

Another gear assembly from the engine's main shaft meshes with another shaft designed to change the direction of the spin. This is called the transmission, and it is vital for the car's intended purpose of transportation. The connection from the engine to the transmission must be maintained nearly perfectly or else the gears will fall out of alignment and destroy the transmission. The transmission directs the power from the engine to two more sets of shafts called the transaxels. These geared shafts redirect the direction of the spin once more, which allows the tires to move forward and backwards with enough torque to overcome the inertia of a stationary car and create some momentum.

A car's engine could theoretically run forever as long as it had a fuel source and electrical power for ignition. But most engines eventually wear out because of friction and stress. Engine oil helps to keep the valves and pistons lubricated, but eventually leaks develop around critical seals and the engine becomes less efficient. Spark plugs can also become fouled with excess carbon generated by the gasoline, and transmission parts may become damaged over time. An internal combustion is an amazing feat of engineering because the entire system can move with the machinery it powers.

Fitting a new car stereo into factory openings

2007-05-17T11:26:00.000+07:00

In a short period of time, almost anybody can replace their existing car stereo.
This is a relatively easy task that can be performed in a short amount of time, usually in one afternoon. The in-dash radio has to go, and a new one will be replacing it. But how does one go about figuring what will fit into that empty space? A few simple steps, a phone call or two, a bit of research; that's all it requires.

The first move is to determine if the chosen model will fit into the opening of the existing car radio. Start with the car stereo dealer. Most manufacturers publish some kind of radio size-chart that covers cars from 1975 and up to the present. Or check out the parts department of the local car dealer that sells the vehicle model owned. It may be possible to get a stock radio to measure and compare, or to get a glimpse at the parts book for how and where the radio is to be mounted. If no information is readily available to you, try the Internet and do a search for your model of vehicle and then radio installation. As a last resort, get out a ruler and measure the distance between the middle of each knob on the existing radio. Don't forget to measure the opening itself and jot down the length and width of the opening.

A lot of radios come with an in-dash mounting kit. If it does not come with a kit, then try the Internet and search for car radio installation kits. There are quite a few sites that have kits and instructions available. These kits are especially handy if replaced a knobbed radio with a newer model that has no knobs.

There are two ways a radio will be mounted in the dash, from the back or through the front. If it is mounted from the back, slip under the dash and take a look at it. It may be necessary to remove some trim or the heater/ac ducting. If it is still hard to see the radio, it is probably installed from the front. If it comes out the front, this is the easiest install and most common in newer cars.

While under the dash, remove the rear support bracket and any wires attached to the radio. Do not cut the wires; unplug them at the connectors so there won't be any shorts. Next, remove the old knobs--if there are any, they usually pull straight off. Then remove the shaft nuts with a long socket wrench or pliers.

At this point, the radio should drop down behind the dash. If it is a tight fit, some twisting or turning may be necessary, just don't force it. If the radio is loosened, but still won't come out from behind, try pulling it out through the front of the opening.

Remove the trim panel that covers the front of the radio. Sometimes the same trim panel covers the heater/ac controls. The trim panel is secured by obvious screws or spring clips. Slowly, remove the screws or pry the panel to remove it from the dash. Always be gentle, as trim panels can break very easily and are usually costly to replace unless you go to the junkyard. Behind the trim panel, there is the radio support plate. Remove the plate and the radio will slide out. Now measure again, and compare it to the new unit to be sure it will fit.

Installing the radio should be done in the reverse order of removing the old one. If there are knobs on the new radio, adjust the control shaft spacing to line up with the old holes in the dashboard. If the old radio did not have knobs, don't purchase a new one that does unless you are good with a jigsaw and have a very steady hand. If the old radio had knobs, but the new radio does not, it will be necessary to customize the opening. In this case, it is a good idea to purchase a radio that is wider, and use a metal file to enlarge the opening to fit the shape. Use a computer vacuum or hand-held vacuum to clear away any metal shavings that may occur during this process. Remember to work slowly because it is easy to remove metal, but not so easy to put in a new back plate.

Slide the stereo into the opening to see how it fits. If working on a car with a front mounted stereo, loosely put the support and trim panel back into place. If the radio had knobs, the shaft and nosepiece will slide in through the holes. If it is a close fit, but not tight, try adjusting the nose gasket up and down to get it tighter. If the old stereo did not have knobs, this step is unnecessary.

Use the included control shaft spacers to take up any distance between the stereo unit and the back of the dash or mounting plate. Use as many spacers as necessary to allow the control shafts to stick out the same distance, so the nosepiece will fit flush or stick out no more than one-fourth of an inch.

If there are no knobs, then simply mount the rear support strap and tighten the trim plate, which completes the installation. This is definitely a one-person project and can be completed by any person with minimal skills using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver.

Install car stereo satellite radio

2007-05-17T11:22:00.000+07:00

How to install car stereo satellite radio without professional help.

Hooking up your satellite radio in your car is easy and there are several methods to go about it. The positives of doing this are that you do not have to pay someone to hook the system up and you often get similar quality results to those of professional installation. The obvious downside is that the aesthetics of the results may not be that desirable.

The four ways suggested here to get satellite radio in your car are: Through your stereo’s input jack, through your car stereo’s tape player, via an FM modulated transmitter, and through a portable stereo’s input Jack. The sections on powering your receiver, the antenna, running the antenna wire, and mounting the receiver are universal in all installations.

If you have selected a satellite radio provider and a satellite radio receiver, you are on your way. If you have not selected a satellite radio provider, you should search the Internet and visit the consumer electronics shops in your area. The content of the two satellite radio providers is slightly different and you may want to choose the one more suited to your tastes. The satellite provider you choose also will determine the receiver that you will be able to use. These receivers come in all shapes and price range and should definitely factor in your decision. Also, whether you want to use the installation advice here depends on the receiver you choose. Some retailers will provide free installation with a purchase over a certain amount; it is advisable to look into these deals where they exist.

Powering your receiver:

Your receiver will require some sort of input power. Usually, it is 12V DC. Check on the back of your receiver and then check at your local consumer electronics store for a cigarette lighter adapter. This will cost around $20.

The antenna:

It may be helpful just to buy the car adapter kit for your receiver. For most models this costs around $50. As strange as it sounds, there is a difference between your home antenna and your car antennae. An antenna designed for the car will invariably get better reception. You can, if you are set on the idea, try your home antenna and you may get good results. Antennas designed for the car often come with magnetic backings to facilitate installation. The car adapter kit is a good idea and it may come with other useful accessories. You have to make sure that the kit you buy matches your receiver.

Running the antenna wire:

Running the antenna wire is the most painstaking part of the installation. First, you need to decide where you want to mount the antenna and receiver. If you choose to mount the antenna inside under a window, you can expect to have reduced reception. Satellite radio will cut out normally under large bridges. Mounting the antenna inside will worsen this problem and may even cause cutouts on tree lined roads and mountainous canyons that would not normally cause a problem if the antenna were mounted outside. Where you live may factor into this decision. If you live in an urban area with large buildings, in the mountains or in a place with heavy forests, you will almost certainly need to mount the antenna outside the car. If you live among the wheat fields of the mid-west, you may be able to get away with mounting the antenna inside the car, but you will almost certainly have to place it under the window.

To run the wire, you can wedge the wire under the trim around doors and under seats. Be creative, your car is full of plastic pockets that have enough void space to hold the wire. Make sure that when the wire is run from the outside of the car to the inside that there are no sharp edges that will cut the wire. Also, it is necessary to leave enough slack if you mount the antenna on a moving exterior surface like a trunk. It may be, in some areas advisable to buy zip ties or use old garbage bag ties to hold the wire where the slack may get in the way. Often left over wire can be tucked into a void under a plastic cover. It is important that the wire in no way impedes your ability to operate the vehicle and it should not come into contact with heat elements such as those found in heated seats or ventilation ducts.

Attaching the receiver:

Some of the car adapter kits come with suction cups and other methods for mounting the receiver. Many times, these methods simply do not work. Depending on how much you value the interior of your car will determine how you want to mount the receiver. Preferably, you will want it close at hand and easily operable without distracting your attention from operating the motor vehicle. One method is to simply place the receiver in any available cavity in your dashboard. A second preferred method that may leave lasting marks on your dash is to install the receiver with adhesive Velcro. They sell this at any hardware store and in the tools section of your local discount retailer. This also allows you to remove the receiver when changing channels.

Connecting through your car’s input jack:

Check the front of your car’s stereo to see if there is an input jack. If one exists, check the owner’s manual (if you do not have it chances are it is available online) and go to your local consumer electronics store to find the cables you need. Simply power the receiver, plug it to the antenna and plug it to the front of your stereo. Congratulations, you have the easiest method of retrofitting your car with satellite radio. You are the envy of those who have to read on.

Connecting through your car’s tape deck:

This requires the purchase of an approximately $15 item that can be bought at any consumer electronics store. It looks like a tape that has a wire coming from the corner. This item can be handy because it can be used not only with your satellite radio receiver, but also with almost all of your other consumer electronics such as an iPod, your cell phone, or a portable DVD player. You may not love it, but your kids will when you have a Bug’s life jamming through your car’s stereo system.

FM Modulated transmitter:

This isn’t cheap. Generally, they are as hard to install as a car stereo. Also, if your car stereo doesn’t have a tape deck or an input, it may be advisable to either by a new stereo with free installation, or go with the portable stereo option below. But, if you love your current stereo and have a spare $200 and an afternoon give this option a try. How it works is the satellite receiver is plugged into a FM transmitter that broadcasts at low power just to your car stereo. So you can tune into a station like 88.5 FM and hear your satellite radio. You will have to follow the instructions that come with the FM modulator kit because they come in all shapes and sizes. Too detailed for a short introductory article.

Use a portable stereo:

This is the ultimate in going on the cheap. If you do not have a stereo that has a working tape deck or input jack and do not want to shell out the extra cash for a new stereo, this is the option for you. First you need to acquire a portable stereo with input jacks. Having done that, you will need to power it. You will need to research what kind of power source it needs. If it has a 12 V DC input, you are in business. Just use a cigarette lighter adapter like the one mentioned in powering your receiver. If it takes 120V AC (the most common) you can find adapters that will do that for you at your local automotive part store. Once you have powered the stereo, the receiver and hooked up the antenna you just have to make sure you do not trip over the wires.

It might also be helpful to have a friend operate this contraption, as it may be difficult to do yourself in a moving vehicle.

What to do if you witness a major car accident

2007-05-17T11:18:00.000+07:00

If you witness a major car accident, call 911, make injured parties comfortable without moving them, and make notes on everything you can remember.

Here are suggested actions to take if you witness a major automobile accident.

First, call 911 and report the accident. If you don’t have a cell phone, ask others on the scene to call, or try to find a phone in a nearby house or business. If you cannot locate a telephone at or near the accident, drive to the nearest phone and then return to the scene.

Try to determine if there are any injured people without putting yourself in danger (e.g., do not approach a vehicle, especially if it is on fire, in case of an explosion). Do not move an injured person and risk injuring him or her further. If possible, make the injured person more comfortable (e.g., cover him or her with a blanket or sit with him/her).

Warn oncoming vehicles about the accident (wave your arms or use something as a flag) and stop traffic or direct it past the accident scene (or ask someone else to do this). At night, use car headlights to illuminate the area and a flashlight to direct traffic.

When the police arrive, give the officer(s) your name and contact information and let the officer(s) know that you witnessed the accident. The police might ask you to describe what you saw immediately and/or they might talk to you at a later time. You might even be called as a witness in court if legal action ensues.

As soon as you can, write down every detail about the accident that you can recall while it is still fresh in your mind. Your notes should include as many of the following facts as possible: the date and time of the accident; the location of the accident; road conditions (e.g., dry, wet, icy or snowy; smooth, bumpy, gravely, or potholed); traffic conditions; weather conditions; visibility (rain, snow, fog, darkness, presence or absence of street lights); approximate speed the vehicles were traveling at the time of the accident (if applicable); whether any of the cars involved skidded; areas of impact on the vehicles; whether anyone appeared to be injured and in what capacity; what, if anything, the parties involved in the accident said; and any other conditions that may have contributed to the accident. Write down the license plate numbers of the vehicles involved in the accident (in case one of the drivers leaves the scene).

Draw a picture of the accident scene, as well, with diagrams of how and where the collision occurred. Also include the locations of any cross-streets, stop signs, or traffic signals, and anything else you think may be helpful in reconstructing the accident.

Stay out the way of the emergency crews (firefighters, paramedics, tow truck drivers, police), and leave the scene as soon as possible. You’ve done all you can.

Hopefully you will never witness an accident, but it is not a bad idea to have a flashlight, a notepad and pen, a blanket, and a cell phone in your car at all times - just in case. These items are, of course, useful for other situations, too.

How to check a car's automatic transmission fluid level

2007-05-17T11:15:00.000+07:00

Checking transmission fluid can be easy and safe for anyone. The task doesnt take any special skill or knowledge to accomplish.

Checking the transmission fluid is not difficult and should be done once a month. Another reason to check the fluid, and the situation that most people find themselves in, is when the car begins to have shift roughly. This could be because the fluid is low due to a leak or that the fluid is dirty.
The first thing to do is move the car to a level parking surface. This will insure a more accurate reading, you do not want to overfill your automatic transmission fluid (ATF). After moving the car, keep the engine running. The engine needs to be warm to get a more accurate reading.

While the engine is running, read the owner’s manual to find the location of the dipstick. It is not always as easily accessible as the oil dipstick, but it is usually brightly marked with a red or yellow covering. The owner’s manual will also tell you if the engine should be running. Most cars will need the engine to be running.

Put on safety goggles before getting under the hood. This will protect your eyes from any debris that may be present in the engine and fly up and hit you in the face. You may also need a flashlight to better see into the engine to locate the dipstick. Remove the dipstick after the engine has warmed up and wipe it clean. Replace the dipstick and remove again. This will give a better reading. There are markings for “Cold” and “Warm.” Since the engine is warm, check the markings for the Warm readings. If the fluid isn’t full, add a little bit at a time and measure again with the dipstick. You do not want to overfill the ATF. You should also make a note of the color of the fluid. ATF fluid is a pinkish/red color; brown fluid means a call to the mechanic.

To add fluid, get a long necked funnel and pour the fluid into the hole where the dipstick goes. Remember, only a little bit at a time, you don’t want to overfill it. Replace the dipstick, wait a few moments, then pull out the dipstick wipe it down, replace and pull again. This should give the new fluid measurements.

Some new vehicles do not ever need the fluid replaced, but some vehicles need the fluid flushed and replaced every 24,000 miles. Check with the owner’s manual to get the specifics for your vehicle.

To recap:

Items you will need:

* Clean rag/cloth

* Flashlight (to better see into the engine)

* Safety goggles

* Long necked funnel

Steps to check Automatic Transmission Fluid:

*Check owner’s manual to see if engine should remain running during fluid check

*Park vehicle on level surface and follow manual’s instructions regarding engine status.

*Remove dipstick, wipe clean, replace and remove again.

*Read the fluid level and check the color of the fluid. Fluid should be pink/red color.

*Wipe dipstick clean again. If fluid is low, use clean long necked funnel to pour fluid into system through dipstick opening. Otherwise, replace dipstick and close hood.

Biodiesel and Vegetable Oil

2007-05-09T11:24:00.000+07:00

Ever heard of running your car on vegetable oil? Neither had we, until one of our flakier listeners who actually drove a van that ran on used vegetable oil (no, we're not kidding) called in. Where'd he tank up? From the fryer at his local diner, of course!

There are two major downsides to running your diesel vehicle on vegetable oil, though. First, in very cold temperatures, a vehicle that runs on vegetable oil can be hard or impossible to start. You'll need to modify your vehicle with a second, conventional diesel fuel tank and a fuel switch, so you can start your can with good, old-fashioned diesel fuel.

Second, the oil may rot rubber parts like hoses and seals. You'll need to replace any natural or butyl rubber hoses and seals in your fuel line with more-durable "fluoroelastomer" components.

Finally, you run the risk of being followed by hungry teenagers, who are known to follow the smell of french fries just about anywhere.

Biodiesel is a less daring alternative fuel option. Biodiesel is a form of fuel that's made from vegetable, plant, or seed oil. It can be used in any vehicle that runs on diesel fuel. Usuallly it's mixed in with regular diesel fuel, but many vehicles can run on 100% biodiesel.

Biodiesel is much better for the environment than regular diesel. Pure biodiesel has no lead or sulfur dioxide emission and reduced levels of carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and particulates -- all of which are some of the causes of acid rain, global warming, soot, and smog. Biodiesel reduces toxic particles in the air by up to 90%, compared to regular diesel fuel.

One downside to running your vehicle on biodiesel? It costs a bit more than old fashioned petroleum diesel. However, biodiesel is available all around the country. It can even be ordered in 55-gallon drums.

Biodiesel Resources

Automakers Getting a Taste for Vegan Values

General biodiesel information is available at the Biodiesel Information Centre

Here's a recently released book that's been called "the ultimate biodiesel primer": Biodiesel: Growing a New Energy Economy

The Pacific Biodiesel is a commercial source for biodiesel fuels and information.

Check out the veggie van that's been driving around the country, and get info on how you can use biodiesel at the Veggie Van Web site.

Virginia Wesleyan College's Comprehensive Alternative-Fuel-Vehicle Directory

The National Biodiesel Board web site has lots of practical information on using biodiesel fuel -- including what blends to try, how to get biodiesel in your area, answers to many frequently asked questions, and even a biodiesel bulletin board.

By Fringe www.cartalk.com

Electric Vehicles

2007-05-09T11:20:00.000+07:00

Electric vehicles are not for most people. They have one enormous downside: their range. The electric version of Toyota's RAV4, for example, has a stated range of 126 miles.

Since your typical American drives only about 27 miles a day, an electric vehicle might be fine for most days. The downside, however, comes when you need to run some errands, forgot something at work and have to drive back, want to take that weekend trip out of town or make an emergency trip to the bowling alley. If an electric vehicle is your only car, you might find your style seriously cramped. But if it's a second car and used only for a commute to work, it could be a good choice you.

There are other downsides to electric vehicles as well: reduced acceleration and the prospect of possibly needing to replace all those batteries when they're worn out.

How do electric vehicles work? They actually use no gasoline at all. The electric motor (or motors) that turns the wheels are powered by a large bank of batteries inside the car which need to be recharged frequently--usually on a daily basis.

The good news with electric vehicles is their lack of emissions: there aren't any. Not from the car, anyway. Since electric vehicles get their power from the electrical outlet in your house, the pollution comes from the increased demand at the nuclear (or, more likely, coal) power plant down the street. However, since electric generating plants have elaborate emission-control systems (at least compared to your run-of-the-mill Taurus), driving an electric car will result in about a 95 percent net reduction in pollution compared to a conventional car.

Finally, because there's no internal combustion engine in an electric car, a lot fewer repairs are needed. No timing belts, water pumps, radiators, fuel injectors, or exhaust systems means fewer boat payments to your mechanic. And you'll never have to pay for a tuneup or oil change. But you will be paying some of this cost up front, due to the high cost of most electric vehicles.

Right now there are several electric vehicles from which to choose: Electric versions of the Toyota Rav4, the Ford Ranger, and the Dodge Caravan Epic; and an entire line of vehicles from a company called Solectria.

Electric Vehicle Resources:

Check out the cars.com electric vehicle area, with up to date information on how electric vehicles work, who makes them...and what's ahead for EV's.

View the financial incentives available to purchasers of electric vehicles.

Research specific models, find an electric vehicle dealer near you, or get your questions answered at the Department of Energy's Alternative Fuels Data Center

Electric car rentals: EV Cars

Virginia Wesleyan College's Comprehensive Alternative-Fuel-Vehicle Directory

Electric car rentals in California and Florida and electric scooter sales: Zapworld

Places to recharge your electric car in California: the Clean Car Map

By Fringe www.cartalk.com

10 Reasons To Run AuctionAds

2007-05-09T11:17:00.000+07:00

We have been handing out flyers at webmaster conferences with the top 10 reasons to run AuctionAds. One conference goer said we should put the list on our blog since it was pretty informative. Here you go:
1) AuctionAds was created to let users easily leverage the very lucrative eBay affiliate system but in a way that is easy for publishers to use. New users can be running ads and making money with AuctionAds in as little as 5 minutes after signing up with AuctionAds.
2) Geo-targeting - We have relationships with every eBay country programs and automatically geo-target your international traffic for you. If you’re not geo-targeting, you’re giving up valuable revenue.
3) Huge inventory - The depth of items on eBay gives site owners in even the smallest niches the opportunity to show their visitors items they will be interested in.
4) Editorial control - With many advertising programs you give them the power to determine what your page is about and match you to the best advertiser. Many times this can result in ads that are either not related or worst-case could be advertisements you want to avoid.
5) Publisher referral program - Each time your ad is displayed it also includes an automatic link to AuctionAds with your referral id. Many people see the ads and want to run them on their own sites and if someone signs up from your ad you will earn a 2% bonus.
6) Net-0 payments - Stop waiting 15 to 45 days to get paid. AuctionAds pays the 1st of every month for the previous month.
7) Option to open in a new window - One of the biggest gripes of publishers is that in order to get paid from other advertising programs a user must leave their site. With AuctionAds publishers have the option to open the eBay auction in a new window. This way when they are done shopping on eBay they can resume where they left off at your website.
8 ) Leveraging the highest tiers of the eBay affiliate program - The eBay program has many levels of payouts based on volume. The users of AuctionAds pool together volume to give everyone the highest payouts possible from the eBay program.
9) Additional revenue stream - Due to the pictures in ads and unique nature of AuctionAds you can feel free to run it in conjunction with other popular programs like Google AdSense and Yahoo Publisher Network. If one of these other programs are already working for you, AuctionAds can be a nice additional income stream for you.
10) Great Looking Ads related to your content - AuctionAds can really spice up the look of your website with relevant content. Between the international targeting and the huge inventory of the eBay system its pretty safe to say that AuctionAds is the most flexible advertising program ever.

Common car stereo installation problems

2007-04-28T19:23:00.000+07:00

If a stereo isn't "playing right", it doesn't mean the unit is broken.

The car stereo has been installed, everything seems to have been done correctly, but there is still a problem. What can be done about it? If a trip to the dealer, or installer is not part of the available solution, or if the job was done by a friend, how should the troubleshooting be done effectively? The answers may lie within this article. Read through the following steps until all sample problems have been corrected or at least removed from possible causes of the issue at hand.

Maintenance and preventive car will help alleviate potential problems with any car stereo. All car stereos need a little maintenance to keep them performing the way they were meant to perform when they were initially installed.

1. All tape heads must be periodically cleaned, and there are kits available for this purpose. The kits may be purchased from auto departments at most chain stores; auto parts stores, or even the dealer if necessary. The kit usually contains an alcohol-based fluid, and cotton-covered swabs that resemble Q-Tips. Use one drop of the liquid on the cotton swab and gently wipe the tape heads for 2-3 seconds. This should be done after every 20 hours of tape play. This will keep road dirt, static electricity, and cigarette tar from gumming up the inner workings of the player.

2. CD players need maintenance as well. Some things to remember about CD players: skipping may be caused by fingerprints, dust, or scratches on the CD inserted into the player, so always be certain the playing surface is smooth and clean. To keep CDs clean, try using CD Saver by CRS. This kit provides a special cloth and a silica-based liquid to clean the surface of the CD. To clean the inside of a CD player, there are CDs that are made expressly for that purpose. Usually, these can be purchased at a dealership or auto parts store.

3. Speakers should be tightened from time to time, as they can attle loose from bumpy roads and general car vibration. Also check for debris on speakers that are mounted on the rear dash, facing upward. Road grit can accumulate, causing rattling and distorted sound. Also this grit and dust can get trapped between the speaker grill and the cone inside; if this is the issue, remove the speaker grill and use a hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove the offending particles. Replace the speaker grill and try the sound again. Also clean the speakers with a damp cloth or an Armor-All cloth and sound should return to normal.

4. If the stereo doesn't seem to be getting power, check the fuse box. Sometimes the fuse will burst from a power surge, or simply burn out. Changing a fuse is an easy task because the fuse box is usually located under the dash or in the glove box. Fuses are very inexpensive and are sold singly or in sets. Simply remove the fuse that is blackened, and match it to one of the new fuses purchased, place the new fuse into the fuse box and the radio should now have power.

5. Sometimes the sound may seem "thin" when the stereo is playing. This could mean that the left/right channel controls are out of phase. Reverse the leads on one speaker. If nothing else, the base response will dramatically increase.

6. Signal loss may occur if the antenna wire becomes loose or unplugged. Check under the cowl or front fender, and in some cars, the glove box. If the wire is connected, try disconnecting it and reconnecting it to be sure there is a clean, tight connection. Also, if this was a home installation, it is prudent to re-check any soldered or taped connections to be certain all wire still have a tight connection. One last thing to check on door speakers, see if the wire has been crimped or cut by the door. Often speaker wires can come loose and be tangled in the door threshold, causing distortion or loss of sound altogether.

7. If options 1-6 have been tried and there is still a problem with sound in a speaker, check to see if there is a short in the wire. If there is an uninsulated stretch of wire, or if the electrical tape has come loose, there could be dirt and loose wiring to blame. Something else to consider is that the uncovered wire may have touched other metal on the car, which is called grounding. In either case, clean the connection, re-twist wires together, and apply fresh electrical tape.

Diagnosing an ailing car stereo is fairly easy, but can be time-consuming. Remember, that 50% of car repair is patience. Go through the steps above in an attempt to identify and rectify the issue the stereo is having. Nothing is more frustrating that to pay a "professional" to do something that could have been done in the driveway at no cost. If all else fails, it might be time to go to a repair facility, or worse-the dealership.

Auto maintenance and problems: does your car need a check-up?

2007-04-28T19:22:00.000+07:00

When your car starts making funny noises or smells, it may be time to go in for a checkup before something goes wrong.

As your vehicle begins to lose that new car look and feel, you may start noticing new things that deserve a second thought. Some changes are to be expected as normal wear and tear, such as a scratched seat, scuffed floor mats, or even a chip in the windshield from a stray pebble.

But other observations may be more disturbing. Here are some things to watch and listen for, and when they occur, give some thought to taking your automobile in for a checkup, much as you would someone who exhibits symptoms of possible illness:

1. Sniff out the burning smell. If your vehicle starts to smoke under the hood, or if you notice an electrical burning smell that increases rather than disappears, have your car checked out by a professional technician. It may be a simple case of low radiator fluid. On the other hand, there may be an electrical short in the system, which means you could run into big trouble soon if the problem is not short-circuited. A dull burning odor may mean your engine is low on oil, or is not processing oil correctly; there may be a leak, for example. Unless you know how to check for any of these possibilities, have someone check out your car who knows what to do.

2. Root out the rattle. If you're pretty sure the noise is coming from a marble or coin that fell into a vent or another part of the car, you're probably okay. But if the rattling sound is coming from the engine or below the car, as in the chassis or wheel areas, get it checked out. Your hub cap may have picked up a loose stone, on one hand. But on the other, you may have a loose or lost part. Missing screws need to be replaced pronto before you end up with missing parts.

3. Locate the whining sound. A low whine could point to a loose or broken belt in the engine. It also may suggest that two parts are rubbing enough to cause friction and require lubrication. Find out what the problem is to avoid serious breakage that is sure to be costly and time-consuming when repaired.

4. Check the temperature gauge. When the indicator shows the engine temperature to be hot, and it remains so, you should definitely find out what's wrong. An overheated engine can lead to serious problems if you don't treat it early on. The vehicle may require something as simple as a fan belt, a water pump, or radiator fluid, but failing to act promptly could be dangerous.

5. Double-check the windshield defroster. If your car has both front and rear defrosters for the windows, make sure they work correctly. When you notice that one or both sets of windows steam up or fail to clear readily after you push the defrost lever, something may be wrong. Driving in rain, snow, or even fog without adequate defrosting help can lead to an accident. Take the car in for an estimate of what is wrong and how much it will cost to get fixed.

These are just a sampling of the problems you may encounter with an aging car. Keep your eyes, ears, and nose alert to possible changes in your vehicle's operation, and take care of even small glitches right away to avoid the possibility of worse problems later.

Safety tips for women drivers

2007-04-28T19:20:00.000+07:00

Women who drive alone should take a few extra precautions that can protect them from potential problems on the road.

Driving home from work after dark, you notice a vehicle following you closely. Turning down a different street than usual, you can see that the person turns as well. Weaving through an unfamiliar neighborhood you notice that the driver behind you is sticking close and you question his motives. What should you do?

a) Pull over, get out, and confront him?

b) Try to out drive him?

c) Head for home and hope you can get into the house before he catches you?

None of the above is a good idea. Any competitive response is likely to keep your pursuer engaged. Instead, drive to the nearest police station where there are sure to be police vehicles parked on the street, with a few officers coming or going. Roll down your window and call one over to explain the situation.

If this is not possible, drive into a well-lit convenience store or shopping plaza. Honk loudly to attract attention and roll down your window to explain to a respectable looking group of pedestrians. Or quickly get out of the car and merge with a group headed into the store where you can telephone for help.

Women who travel alone need to be aware of their surroundings, both in and out of the car. Here are more safety tips:

1. Don't drive after dark into unfamiliar areas if you can avoid it. It's easy to get lost, appear confused, or stand out as a lone driver in neighborhoods you don't know. Predators will quickly pick you out as a potential victim.

2. Avoid traveling alone. Instead, take along a friend or co-worker if possible. That way you will face less risk of being singled out for trouble.

3. Take a cell phone with you. Be sure it is charged or you have the battery cord to use if necessary. Have a plan ready to get help if you are approached by someone with ill intentions toward you.

4. For long trips, you may want to bring along a "pretend friend" that is actually a dummy figure with a ball cap pulled low to look as though a male passenger is snoozing alongside you in the car. You can purchase these if you don't want to make one yourself.

5. Keep an emergency kit, flares, food, and water with you in the car at all times. If your car breaks down, you won't have to get out and walk for needed items.

6. If your car does stop running, pull to the side of the road and call for emergency assistance on the cell phone. Set up flares if no one is around to bother you. If someone pulls over and offers to help, stay in your car and roll down the window a few inches only, just enough to tell the person that help is on the way or to ask that he make a phone call for you if you don't have a phone.

7. Never accept a ride with a man you don't know. Even if he seems friendly, you don't know what may happen. Stay put until help arrives.

8. Take a car repair class so you can handle the basics. Learn how to change a tire, jump the battery, or maneuver a series of possible problems. Then you won't have to rely on strangers as much and you may not need to call for help.

Don't become a travel statistic. Plan ahead to protect yourself by following a few basic tips like those outlined above.

Automotive maintenance - 60,000 mile maintenance - what to expect

2007-04-28T19:17:00.000+07:00

Ready for your 60,000 mile maintenance service for your automobile? Here are some services you may expect.

For most people, their automobile is one of their most prized possessions. This is not necessarily because it is a cool or new car or because it is the latest or most expensive model. If you live in a city where you work thirty miles from home or where the nearest grocery store is ten miles away, your car is your livelihood. Without it, you would be taking a bus or hitching rides with friends. Because your car is so important in getting you where you want and need to go, take care of it. This doesn’t mean you should take it in for a car wash every two days (although nobody is stopping you if you want to do that), but it does entail making sure the insides of the car are up to par. If they are not, this could cause further damage to your car that you were not expecting both mentally as well as financially. In addition to a 15,000 and 30,000 mile service, you will also need to take your automobile in for a 60,000 mile service. Here are the items you can expect to be inspected, replaced and fixed.

* Timing belt: A broken timing belt could cause extensive damage to your engine, so this is probably number one on your list when getting your 60,000 mile service. More than likely, your mechanic will replace the timing belt at this time, since most, if not all, automobile manufacturers suggest this service. You will want to be sure you have the crankshaft and camshaft seals replaced at this time, as well.

* Cooling system hoses: At this time, your mechanic will also replace your cooling system hoses, if necessary.

* Spark plugs: Both platinum and non-platinum spark plugs will be changed at this time.
In addition to the above services, you will also have all the services done that you would at a 30,000 mile service. They are listed below.

* Automatic transmission service: This includes a transmission flush as well as a replacement of transmission fluid. The mechanic will also check for any leaks at this time.

* Cooling system flush: The cooling system is flushed out with detergent and replaced with new quality coolant. In addition, a conditioner and a ph balancer will be added to the new coolant. During the cooling system check up, there will be an inspection of any possible leaks.

* Ignition tune-up: This tune-up consists of diagnostic checks on the computer system as well as the emissions. The mechanic will also perform an injection system service at this time.

Furthermore, the mechanic will also go through and check all things that would be checked on a normal 15,000 mile service, as well as any other routine monthly or quarterly services.

* Check all fluid levels.

* Perform a brake inspection, specifically the rotors and brake pads.

* Inspect the suspension and steering.

* Perform a tire rotation, tire balance, wheel alignment, inspect the wear and tread on the tires, check the tire pressure and repack the wheel bearings.

* If you have not had your most recent oil change, they will do that as well, and replace both your oil and air filters.

Auto safety questions: how seatbelts work

2007-04-26T11:36:00.000+07:00

Find out how safety belts work to save your live while you are riding in a vehicle and how to use them properly to ensure a safe trip.

A "seatbelt" is a strong mesh lap belt that has a shoulder belt connected to it. The seatbelt and the shoulder belt are securely attached to the frame of the auto.

Basically, to make a seatbelt work properly, you should sit in an upright position on the seat of the auto. Reach up and pull the shoulder/seatbelt from its retracting holder, then pull it out and around your body. Insert the tab on the latch plate into the buckle until you hear it make a clicking sound. Then, adjust the seatbelt so that it fits low around your hips. The shoulder belt should cross your shoulder, collar bone and chest. In order for these safety devices to work properly, both the seatbelt and the shoulder belt should fit snugly, but not be tight or uncomfortable. When you are buckled in, you should be able to move forward slightly.

In case of a auto accident, a seatbelt is designed to perform two life-saving tasks. First, it restrains you in your seat so that you are not ejected from the auto. And second, a seatbelt helps to actually slow your body down in order to prevent injuries, or, at least lessen injuries so they are not as severe.

How does a seatbelt slow your body down during an auto accident? When you are riding in an auto, your body is, of course, traveling at the same rate of speed as the auto is traveling. But, if the auto should be stopped suddenly, as in hitting a stationary object such as a tree, your body does not stop too. Instead, it continues to keep moving at the same rate of speed it was moving. This is caused by "inertia." Inertia is a term used in Physics that can be defined as "the tendency of an object to maintain its rate of motion until it is acted upon by an external force." In other words, your body continues to move until a stationary object inside the auto stops it. Unfortunately, if you are not wearing a seat belt, the object might well be a steering wheel, dashboard, or the auto's windshield. If, however, you have the protection of a seatbelt, it is designed to tightens up and spread out the force of the stop over a wide portion of your body. Specifically, your shoulder, rib cage, pelvis, collar bone, hips, and other strong, bony parts, if the seat belt is worn properly.

According to the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration, (NHTSA), wearing a seatbelt saves more than ten thousand lives in the United States alone each and every year. Unfortunately, on the flip side, the administration also estimates that seatbelts could have saved nearly as many crash victims, had they been wearing seatbelts. The NHTSA also estimates that wearing a seatbelt while riding in the front seat of an auto can reduce the risk of being fatally injured by approximately fifty percent.

The only way that seatbelts can do their jobs is if you wear them each and everytime that you get into an auto. You need to wear a seatbelt even if you're going on a quick drive to the market, or to the school to pick up your kids, for example. Because, according to statistics, most auto accidents happen within twenty-five miles of your home.

Emergencies, repairs, and safety: supplies to keep in the car

2007-04-26T11:30:00.000+07:00

Before heading out on any major road trip, stock your car with a few essential items that can help to protect you when needed.

The next time you plan a road trip, whether for business or pleasure, pack a few basic items in the car in addition to luggage. You never know when the car will break down or roads will become impassable due to weather or an accident, so prepare for unexpected contingencies like these.

The time of year, the regional climate, and the length of your trip will impact the things you take with you. Of course, if your vehicle breaks down, you can always call a towing service approved by your insurer or you can contact the American Automobile Association if you are a member, and hopefully you are. But even if your vehicle is new and is covered by a comprehensive repair policy, it is a good idea to carry along a few basic things in case you meet with the unexpected. In general, here are suggestions for must-have extras:

1. A flashlight or lantern. Even if you plan to travel during daylight hours only, it's possible you could run into a rainstorm or heavy fog at some point. If the car gets stuck in the mud or you need to check the battery cables for a stalled engine, a flashlight will certainly come in handy. Even simply losing a small item under the seat may need the extra illumination generated by a flashlight. Tuck one into the glove compartment or trunk, and check the batteries to be sure they are still good.

2. Emergency flares or banner. Even the newest of vehicles have been known to break down under mysterious circumstances. While the repair may be paid for under your warranty, that's not much help when you need to get the car off the road and into a service dealer. Pack two or more emergency flares that can be placed at either end of your vehicle, even in daylight, to warn other travelers of your plight so they avoid hitting your car. A white banner that can be attached to the top of your vehicle or draped from a window may serve the same purpose.

3. Water and food. Driving for hours at a time may mean that someone is bound to get thirsty. While it's a good idea to stop and stretch the legs, sometimes you want to keep driving. Include a few bottled beverages or a thermos to take the edge off your thirst. Do the same to stave off hunger pangs between meals. Granola bars, easy-to-handle fruits like grapes or apples, and a few carrot sticks or cookies will let you keep driving without suffering from hunger or spending a small fortune at the next convenience store. If you happen to get stranded, you'll be especially grateful that you brought along something to nibble on.

4. A Blanket. During hot or cold weather, chances are someone in the car is going to feel uncomfortable. With the air conditioner cranked up, pass the blanket to someone whose legs or arms feel the chill. Or if you drive at night or early morning, a cuddly blanket can help passengers doze off until it's time for a rest stop. Blankets may come in handy during a car accident if someone goes into shock. Hopefully this won't be your family, but if you come upon an accident scene, you'll be able to offer help.

5. Tire-changing and battery-jumping tools. A flat tire can happen to any vehicle, new or old. Most cars are equipped with a jack and a spare tire, but some folks remove them to make room for other things. Be sure to bring yours along. Even if your battery or vehicle is new, you should throw battery cables into the trunk in case you pass another car in distress. While you may not want to stop for just anyone, in certain seemingly safe situations you can offer your cables to a person whose battery needs to be jumped.

These are just some of the basics to add to your packing list. Don't forget a cell phone for emergencies or a phone card so long-distance calls won't cost as much. A container for those with car sickness may be useful, along with paper towels or baby wipes. Think of other things that your passengers may need before setting out, keeping in mind that helpful items like these tend to cost more when you buy them far from home.

How to get better gas mileage

2007-04-04T10:27:00.000+07:00

Want to get better mileage with your vehicle? Check out some possible causes for higher-than-average gas usage and cost.

Want to get better gas mileage? How are your filters working? Are the fuel injectors in danger of becoming blocked? Do you have a leak in the tank?

At the current high price of gas we need to get the best fuel mileage that the cars are made to get. There are many reasons why a car gets bad gas mileage. One might be the general operation of your vehicle. You need to keep on file the date for the last time you had a tune-up. If your spark plugs are worn out or worn down, this will allow more gas to get into your system. Some car owners regap these, but it is much better to replace them. And if your engine has not been tuned up in a while, the spark plug wire might be bad and the engine might not be running on all cylinders. Both can cause bad gas mileage.

But consider these possible causes as well. A dirty air cleaner can cause problems, so check yours periodically. Unscrew the bolts from the air cleaner cover and lift up; you might have a couple of vacuum hoses to pull off the cover but they won't give you any trouble. Take the old filter to the auto store and make sure they match up. Then clean the inside cover and put the new filter inside; place the clean cover back on. This procedure can be followed for most American-made vehicles. A new air filter can make a major difference.

When your car is getting bad gas mileage, it usually runs rough or misfires. But in some cases it could be due to improper air pressure in your tires. In the winter, check your tire pressure once a month. Another cause for bad gas mileage is the fuel filter. Most of the time if it is your fuel filter, your car won’t have good pick-up and will not run smoothly. Unless you work on cars much, you should have a mechanic check this. If your car is a little older, you might want to go to the auto store and buy a fuel system cleaner. Ask someone that work there which one is best for your make of car. And remember, you get what you pay for. I know people that drive hundreds of miles a week, and at every oil change they have the cleaner added. Some have accumulated over 150,000 miles on the vehicle. So paying ten or fifteen dollars more every three months can be worth it. Make sure you don’t have a bad exhaust system, because this will hurt your performance and your gas mileage.

Additional areas to keep an eye on include air filters, tire pressure, and distributed weight in the trunk. Make sure that your car timing is right, also. There are even more reasons you might be getting poor gas mileage, but these are the easier ones to check. If your car continues to demand costly fuel fill-ups more rapidly than you think is normal, have the vehicle checked out by an expert.

Auto how to: cleaning your car's interior

2007-04-04T10:24:00.000+07:00

Clean out your car to keep it tidy, fresh, and functional for the various types of driving and passengers you will have.

Most people can't afford to have the interior of their vehicles detailed by professional car cleaners. That means at some point if not on most occasions they will have to clean the inside of their cars themselves.

If you plan on cleaning your car's interior, here are a few reminders of some areas that may need attention. Since the car becomes a second home for many of us, keep it clean and fresh-smelling for those many hours on the road.

1. Remove all non-essentials items from the car's interior. This includes trash, books, car seats, dishes, food, music CD's, and anything you've been carrying around with you for a while. Check the trunk to get rid of unneeded things, like last winter's coat or the umbrella you always forget to use. Throw away the rubbish and put the usable stuff in a pile to take indoors when you're done.

2. Use a whisk broom to sweep out the front and back seats. Start with the seats and progress to the floors. Push the seat levers to move the front seats back so that you will have better access to debris stuck in those areas. Vacuum the seats, including the back part and head rests. Don't forget the sides and underneath, if possible. Then vacuum the floors. Use an attachable arm to reach far under the seats and into the smallest and furthest corners.

3. Run a bucket of hot, soapy water. Dip a clean wash cloth into the water and wring out the extra moisture. Be sure it's not so soapy that it will leave a sticky residue. If it is, pour out part of the bucket's soapy water and add more hot water to dilute the soapy effect. Wring your cloth once more. Wipe the dashboard, steering wheel, console, and all interior trim, rinsing the cloth as soon as it becomes dusty or grimy. Wipe out the vents, the inside door panels, and the roof section, including the handles for clothes hangers as well as the seat belts throughout the vehicle.
4. Use a fresh cloth and clear water or window washing solution to clean the car's interior windows and mirrors. Wipe them clean and rinse if there is a residue. Dry them with a paper towel or cloth towel. Use a cotton swab to clean crevices, nooks, rims, and ledges inside the car, especially on the dashboard or near the speakers.

5. Wash the baby's car seat and the floor mats separately. Let them air dry to eliminate germs and avoid mold or mildew that can result from placing them inside the vehicle too soon. Replace any needed items in the car, such as the umbrella under a seat or bottled water in a storage area. Check for missed areas and catch these with a newly-rinsed cloth, such as door locks, turn signals, and spring coils under the front seats.

Keep the car windows down or the doors open as you work to air out the vehicle. You may want to hang a deodorizer on the rearview mirror post. Vacuum the trunk and replace the items that were removed. When finished, your car should feel and smell fresh and clean!

Auto improvement: how to install car speakers

2007-04-04T10:21:00.000+07:00

Replacing car speakers or installing new ones isn’t difficult, and new speakers can sound vastly better than the old ones.

Whether your car's speakers are blown or just sounding puny, new car speakers can be easy to install. Car stereo decks (radio/tape player/cd player/etc.) have a built-in amplifier that powers the speakers. In most cases, your stock deck has an amplifier strong enough to power speakers that will sound dramatically better than your old ones.

The tools necessary for this project will depend on the complexity of the installation. It could be as simple as a couple of screwdrivers, but you will most likely need a wire stripper and electrical tape. Other tools that could be useful, depending on your installation, are a soldering iron, Allen or Torx wrenches, an offset screwdriver set, and a door panel tool.

The first priority is to decide which speakers you want to replace. Some cars may come with anywhere from two to six speakers. Usually you'll want to replace pairs of speakers unless you're adding a separate subwoofer. Your speakers are probably on the back package shelf, in the doors, or on the dash. Just look for speaker grills if the old speakers aren't working. You can usually see the front of the speakers through the grills, but if not, most grills can be removed easily with a screwdriver. Measure and write down the speaker sizes.

Some car speakers are in more inaccessible places, so if you're having trouble getting to the speakers to measure them, then you might want to call a professional. One great resource is Crutchfield, and the primary advantage to using them is that they have online and print-based guides that help you look up your vehicle. For almost any vehicle, their guide will tell you what size your car speakers are and which of their speakers will be easy replacements. Better yet, if you order from Crutchfield, they include an easy to follow installation guide, and if any adaptor brackets or wiring harnesses are needed, they supply those for free, too.

If you don't have the money to replace all your speakers, you can either replace the pair of speakers that sound the worst or replace the biggest set of speakers. Replacing the largest set of speakers will be somewhat more expensive than replacing a smaller set of speakers, but the results are likely to sound far better. For example, say all four of your speakers are blown, distorting badly on bass notes. You measure them and find that you have 4 inch front speakers and 6 x 9 rear speakers. Unless you pay top dollar for really great 4 inch speakers, it isn’t likely that you’ll hear too great of an improvement by replacing them. However, there are plenty of inexpensive, high-quality 6 x 9 speakers on the market, and replacing that set will yield much better-sounding results.

The next decision is which speakers to buy. The easiest method is to replace a pair of speakers with a pair that is an identical size. However, sometimes the magnet on the back of the speaker may be too much bigger than the old speaker, or perhaps part of the front of the speaker sticks out too far for the old speaker hole. If you’re buying speakers from a local store, it’s helpful to measure all the speaker and hole dimensions and take the measurements with you to buy the new set.

Another buying decision is whether you want regular replacement speakers or "component" speakers. Component speakers usually sound better than regular speakers, but they are typically more expensive and almost always more complicated to install. Component speakers have separate speaker cones for the tweeter, midrange, and bass, while regular car speakers combine them. Most component speaker installations involve a lot of custom work, so we’ll assume you’re replacing your car’s speakers with regular, identically-sized speakers.

With your new speakers in hand, the first step of the installation process is removing the old speakers. Hopefully, this will be as easy as unscrewing four screws. If you meet difficulties at this step, here are some hints:

If the screws don’t have regular or Phillips heads, but they have small hexagonal or pointed star-shaped holes instead, then you need either an Allen wrench (fits hexagonal hole) or a Torx-screwdriver (fits star-shaped hole). Allen and Torx wrenches usually come in sets, so make an approximate measurement before going to the store.

If the screws are in a difficult place to reach, such as close to the windshield, then you may need a stubby screwdriver or an offset screwdriver. An offset screwdriver is shaped like a "Z."

If you have to remove door panels to reach the speakers, the installation becomes more difficult, but it can still be done. If you have manual (non-electric) window cranks, it’s helpful to have a door panel tool. This is a flat piece of metal about three inches wide with a wide slot in the middle that goes around your manual window crank to help remove it. After you remove the window crank, remove any screws around the door handle or anywhere else. The door panel usually has plastic friction fittings holding it in place. The door panel tool has an L-shaped section on the handle that is handy for prying the door panel loose from the metal door. Once the door panel is removed, the speaker should be unscrewed and removed.

Once the old speakers are removed, their wires should be disconnected. Some speakers have a plastic clip several inches away from the speaker connecting the speaker wires with the longer wires that run to the stereo deck. If you don’t see a plastic clip, pull or cut the speaker wires away from the old speakers. There are two wires for each speaker, and they should be separated close to the speaker. One wire is probably red (positive), and the other is usually red with a black stripe (negative). If they are not marked, then look at the old speaker terminals for the (+) and (-) that denotes positive and negative, then mark the wires accordingly.

After the old speakers are removed and their wires disconnected from the car's wiring, you should install the new speakers. Hopefully the replacement speakers will be an exact fit, and you can simply place them in the holes and screw them in. If they don't fit exactly, you may need to use a utility knife or a coping saw to enlarge the holes. If the holes are too big, you can fill in the extra room with cardboard or thin plywood cut to fit.

The final step is to connect the new speakers to the car's speaker wires. If you bought your speakers from a company such as Crutchfield, then there is probably a free wiring harness included that you can simply plug into the old wiring harness. If there wasn't a wiring harness, or you don't have a connecting harness with your new speakers, it's still easy to connect the speakers. Connect the positive and negative wires to the proper (+) and (-) speaker terminals. If you have a soldering iron, you can solder the car speaker wires directly to the new speaker terminals. An easier method, though it's less secure, is to strip back an inch or so of the car speaker wires, wrap them around the appropriate speaker terminals, and then wrap the connections with electrical tape.

Now the new speakers should be ready to play. If they don't work, try reversing the polarity on the speaker wire connections. Also, make sure the car stereo has the balance correctly adjusted. If you're only replacing one set of speakers and the other set is blown, you can always turn the balance to play only the new speakers.

Truck air horn laws

2007-04-04T10:19:00.000+07:00

According to federal law, a truck air horn, then, ranges approximately between 80-90 decibels, whether moving or stationary.
Constant exposure to noise of 90 decibels, or 90 dbA, can lead to deafness. With this fact in mind, the United States’ government has set noise abatement standards for aircraft and airports, interstate motor carriers and railroads, workplace activities, motorcycles and mopeds, portable air compressors, federally assisted housing projects and medium and heavy-duty trucks. Under the new federal law, enacted in April, 2000, funding to such noise abatement projects was increased to $207 million annually.

The Environmental Protection Agency

Prior to 1983, the EPS controlled noise policy. Since then the primary responsibility for noise control has shifted to the various states and the municipalities located within them. Current truck air horn laws are now mainly legislated and enforced by each state and the cities within, even though past EPA regulations still remain in effect.

Decibels

Sound is measured in decibels or dbA. Levels of 65 dbA are annoying to most people. The Noise Control Act of 1972 required the EPA to establish noise control standards for motor carriers in interstate commerce. The Federal Highway Administration was to enforce these laws. All commercial vehicles over 10,000 pounds are bound by two types of standards, one for highway travel and one when remaining stationary. Horns or sirens operated while the commercial vehicle is moving are limited to a range between 81-93 dbA. Those operated while the commercial vehicle is stationary are limited to a range between 83-91 dbA. These standards apply under any circumstance – time, road condition, vehicle load, acceleration or deceleration.

As mentioned earlier, a rate of 90 dbA can lead to deafness if an individual is constantly exposed to it. A truck air horn, then, ranges approximately between 80-90 dbA, whether moving or stationary. Consulting the Congressional Research Service Report on Noise Abatement and Control, as it was presented to the House and Senate members, 80 dbA is the sound level of the average city traffic, your garbage disposal or an alarm clock ringing two feet away. However, 90dbA is the sound of subway traffic, truck traffic or your lawn mower: Constant exposure to these sounds can lead to hearing loss.

Fortunately, a truck air horn is used intermittently, and most of us have never nor will ever be exposed to its sound on a continuous basis.

The State and Local Role in Air Horn Noise Abatement

The federal government is limited to regulating the air horn or siren of an interstate vehicle. State and local governments determine the extent of dbA on the air horns and sirens of all other vehicles. Regulations can vary widely.

The State of California, for example, does not establish any standards to abate noise. They do, however, provide some models for local municipalities to use in establishing their own laws.

You must obey the interstate laws for truck air horn usage if your vehicle is over 10,000 pounds, otherwise you must consult your state laws. Remember, municipalities have laws governing truck air horns, and these can vary from municipality to municipality within your own state.

Automotive maintenance: 30,000 mile maintenance - what to expect

2007-04-04T10:17:00.000+07:00

Your automobile is ready for its 30,000 mile maintenance service. Here is what you should expect.
One of the easiest things you can do to prolong the life of your car is to continually maintain it. This is more than making sure the registration sticker is always updated and ensuring you have the best available car insurance. Your car is a machine with tons of working parts that can quickly and easily stop working if they are not cared for. When your car reaches 30,000 miles, you will want to take it in for its 30,000 mile routine maintenance. Here is what you should expect at that checkup.

* Automatic transmission service: This will be a drain and flush of your transmission oil, a replacement of your transmission filter and a refill of the correct transmission fluid. They will also check for any potential leaks.

* Cooling system flush: Your cooling system will be flushed with detergent to clean out your system and then the fluid will be replaced with coolant. A pressure test will also be run to check for potential leaks and a conditioner and ph balancer will be added to the coolant.

* Electronic ignition general tune-up: During the tune-up, the mechanic will run computer checks and check the emissions. If needed, the spark plugs will be replaced and the car will be given an injection system service.

* Fluid levels: The mechanic will also check all fluid levels and do a general under-car condition inspection.

* Brakes: The brake pads will be checked to see if they are still within the correct thickness or if they have been worn down. If necessary, the brake pads may need to be replaced and the rotor machined.

* Steering and suspension: Both of these systems will be checked.

* Tires and wheels: Your wheel alignment will be checked, and, if necessary, they will be aligned to their proper specifications. The tires will be balanced and rotated (if necessary) and the tread on the tire will be checked for their thickness as well as any unusual tread wear. The wheel bearings will be repacked. The tires will also be checked for the correct tire pressure.

* Filters: The air and fuel filters will be replaced.

* Oil: If necessary, your car will also receive an oil change. It is vital that you change your car’s oil at least every 3,000 miles or 3 months (whichever comes first). It is okay to let this go to 5,000 miles, but, under no condition, should you let 7,500 miles pass before getting an oil change. They will also lubricate the chassis.

* Miscellaneous: The mechanic may check all of the lights (brake lights and headlights), check the condition of the coolant hoses, check the belts for tension as well as any wear, check the condition of the windshield wipers, test the charge of the battery and inspect for any fluid leaks.

There is no hard number for how much your 30,000 mile routine maintenance check will cost, since that all depends on what type of car or truck you have and where you decide to take your car for this service.

Buying a car: what to do before going to the dealership

2007-04-04T10:16:00.000+07:00

Looking into buying or leasing a new or used car in the near future? Here are some things you should research before setting foot on the dealer's lot.
How many times have you walked onto a dealership’s lot and left with a new car or got very close to leaving with a new car? With dealerships offering great incentives like 0% financing, no monthly payments for a year or cash back allowances, it is too easy to get involved in a new or used car that you had no intention of buying or leasing when you first walked into the lot. Sure, you may tell yourself that you will simply look around, but, unless you are made of nerves and a will of steel, you will at least end up in the financial office at one point in your visit. Before walking onto any car dealership lot, you will need to do a little of your own research so that you can make a rational and logical decision based on facts as opposed to emotion and whim.

You must have a solid idea of what type of car or SUV or truck you are looking for. If you know you want a certain sized car, research the different models and manufacturers that you are interested in. You will also want to research other manufacturer’s sites to get a good comparison of features and styles. Make a list of the specific features you want (or need) and those features that you can certainly live without and then stick with that list. For example, you may know that you want a 4-cylinder engine, power locks and windows and a decent sound system. However, when you walk onto a lot, the salesman will whisk you straight over to the higher-end models that have a V6 engine, sun roofs, moon roofs, leather seats and the advanced sound systems. Bring this list with you and do not let them steer you to a model that is more expensive. Show them the list and let them know exactly what you want.

There are many sites where you can check an automobile’s safety rating. You may want a car that looks really sharp, but it may have a sub par safety rating; this is not a car you will want to invest in. Look at models similar to the one you have your eye on. You may find that another manufacturer has a car that is better overall in safety features and ratings.

Go online and find out what the value of the specific automobile you are looking into purchasing is worth. You will be able to enter in different specifications of the car you are seeking and find out the value of the car you desire. Now, when you walk onto the dealer’s lot you have some leverage to haggle. Having this knowledge will give you insight into what kind of deal you are really getting yourself into.

When buying a car, a dealership will automatically try to get you financing with their manufacturer’s finance company. Before even walking onto a lot, research other options for financing, including your own bank. You may find you can get pre-approved for a car loan and, if it’s better than the deal they are offering at the dealership, you will be much better off.

Finally, when making a decision about where to purchase your automobile, look around at the different dealerships. Different dealerships will offer different deals. Do not feel bad for finding out what kind of deal a salesman is willing to give and then taking it to another dealership to see if they can do better. After all, you are the one who is going to end up paying for the vehicle, so you always need to look out for your best interests.

Auto questions: how mufflers work

2007-03-31T09:35:00.000+07:00

A guide to the way mufflers function in automoblies, tips on fixing and maintaining.

On all automobiles with gasoline or diesel powered engines, the by-product of internal combustion are exhaust gases, which are expelled from the engine when the exhaust valves open. These exhaust gases then pass through a network of sealed exhaust pipes. On most modern street-driven automobiles, manufacturers have these exhaust pipes lead into a muffler(s) before exiting to the atmosphere usually at a point by the rear of the vehicle.

So why are mufflers used and how do they work?

Due to the high energy created during the combustion process in the engine, exhaust gases when they first enter the exhaust pipes will contain a variety of sound frequencies most of which are not very acoustically pleasing to the ear. Mufflers are therefore used on vehicles as a way to 'muffle' or reduce the sound level of the exhaust gases leaving the engine. They can also be used to tune the exhaust note (like a musical instrument) by canceling out undesirable sounds leaving behind only those which are most pleasant.

The three most common types of mufflers used on the majority of automobiles today are an Absorption muffler, a Diffusion muffler and a Hemholtz chamber.

Absorption Muffler: This design is most commonly used by performance muffler manufacturers as it gives the least resistance to the exhaust gases that pass through. Absorption mufflers work by using a straight perforated tube that's en-cased or wrapped in sound deadening material. In this design, the exhaust gases are able to pass through with almost no resistance while the various frequencies of sounds contained in the gases are absorbed by the material around the perforated tube. Typical materials used for sound deadening are fiberglass, stainless steel mesh and ceramics.

Diffusion Muffler: A diffusion muffler splits the flow of the exhaust gases up into a series of different paths using a series of plates and tubes called baffles. These baffles cause the exhaust to follow a longer path when passing through the muffler. As the exhaust twists its way through these series of tubes and plates, it looses velocity (energy) and in so doing, several sound frequencies are lost and reflected. This in turn tunes the exhaust note that exits the muffler.

Hemholtz Chamber: Also popularly called a Cancellation Muffler or Resonator. This form of muffler derives its name from the German Scientist, Herman Hemholtz, who made several discoveries in the field of acoustics and medicine. The Hemholtz chamber is designed very carefully to be a specific volume and length. As the sounds in the exhaust gases enter on one end, a resonant frequency is established in the chamber that causes all other sounds at that specific frequency to be cancelled out. As this type of muffler only cancels out one frequency in the exhaust, they are rarely used by themselves, but in conjunction with a Diffusion or Absorption Muffler.

Using these three main types of mufflers, the sound frequencies in exhaust gases are tuned, making the final sound that leaves the vehicle be at a desired noise level and quality for both drivers and pedestrians.

How to get a cheap oil change

2007-03-31T09:33:00.000+07:00

Looking for a good price on your next oil change? Here are some tried and true tricks that can help you save a few dollars.

Getting an oil change for the car is one of those mindless but necessary tasks that take a chunk of time from a busy schedule every three or four months. The bright spot in an oil change might be the fact that the smart consumer can find ways to save a few dollars on this service, with a little forethought and effort. Here's how.

1. Call ahead. If you have a favorite place you like to take your car, telephone to ask when the next oil change special will be coming up. Assuming that your car will be due within a month and the special will run in three to five weeks, you can afford to make an appointment and wait to save $5 or $10. If you don't have a favorite shop, get out the phonebook and browse the yellow pages, calling the closest or most reputable places. You should be able to locate one that is offering an oil change discount within a few minutes.

2. Watch for signs. On your travels to and from work, taking the kids to school, attending sports events, or going shopping, keep an eye open on all the car repair and maintenance shops that you pass. Chances are one or more of them will feature an oil change special within the space of a few months. Even if you don't need one now, get a feel for how often the discount is offered so you can plan ahead.

3. Buy oil changes in multiples. Some car dealerships or mechanic shops offer a discounted oil change when you buy six or more. If it normally costs $25, the price may be reduced to $20. That can save you $30 or more simply by purchasing several oil changes at the same time. Another advantage is that once you buy several, you're paid up for this service for several months in advance.

4. Contact an auto mechanics school. Vocational high schools or technical schools often teach auto mechanics. Students, supervised by teachers, provide routine maintenance services at lower-than-average prices, mainly to get experience while in training. Find out if there is a school in your area and give it a try next time.

5. Pay a friend or family member to do it. If someone you know can change the oil and replace the filter, along with other needed fluid levels, offer to pay that person instead of a professional shop. As long as you trust the work, you can possibly offer a lower price, say $15 to $20, instead of the full price of $25 to $30 required by most licensed dealers.

6. Barter services. Short on cash? Offer to type a few letters, make a home-cooked meal, or baby-sit an evening or two in exchange for getting your oil changed. Bartering is a hot new trend that encourages people with special skills to exchange their talent for something they don't know how to do. Getting an oil change is a technical skill that might be exchanged for other types of tasks.

Use your creativity and let your fingers do the walking to explore varied options of lowering your oil change fee. Once you figure out a way of getting a lower rate, you may be able to keep it low for months or years, resulting in substantial savings over time. A little bit of effort now can pay off nice dividends later.

Automotive repair: what can cause squeaky brakes?

2007-03-31T09:31:00.000+07:00

If your brakes are squeaking, here are some possible causes.

“It kind of sounds like a dying armadillo.” Yep, that’s what the brakes sound like. But what causes this horrific noise?

There are several causes of squeaky brakes, not all of them mean that you have a problem.

Dirt on the brakes – squeaking is a normal reaction of the brake rotor when the pad is new and just wearing in. The pad material is worn away by the braking action, in the process causing brake dirt. This gets on the rotor, or drum, causing the brakes to squeak. In time this will go away as the brakes wear in together.

Outside forces – such as water or oil, from the road or from another system within the car may get on the brake rotor causing it to slip or squeak when in use. Usually, brakes dry quickly, especially if the problem is from outside the car. If the problem continues, be sure to have your car checked for leaks within the car that can be affecting your brakes.

Brake springs – the braking system is made up of a series of springs and hydraulic pistons. A squeaking noise may be coming from one of several springs. This may or may not indicate a problem since springs squeak by nature anyway. This is one case that would warrant having a professional take a look at.

Warning tab – the brake pads are all equipped with a warning tab. This measures the amount of surface you have left on your brake pad and produces a squeal when the pad becomes worn. This is the most common cause of brake noise. This is your first warning to have your brakes checked and the pads replaced. Under normal driving conditions the noise could go on for some time before you cause real damage, but it is best to take it in at your earliest convenience.

Bad Brakes – sometimes, if you ignore the warning tab, or if your car doesn’t have one for one reason or another, you may hear a noise that is ear shattering every time you apply the brake. The metal to metal squeal is a sure indication that you have brake trouble. If you do nothing, you will loose all braking power and are at risk of having an accident. So, you will need to take your car to a mechanic, and he will most likely tell you that you need new rotors, drums, shoes and pads. This is an expensive proposition, and the only way to remedy the problem is to fix it.

Lastly, you may find that the squeaking noise you hear is not from your brakes at all, even though it only happens when you apply the brake. This could be the springs on your car, your shock absorbers, or your trunk lid. These squeaks are easily fixed. Squeaky springs and shocks can be fixed with a lube job. For your trunk lid, try some good all-purpose grease.

Be sure that you have explored all of the other possibilities before you automatically assume that the squeak or squeal you are hearing is from your brakes. It will save you money in the long run.

However, if you do have brake issues, make sure that you have a mechanic take a look at it. Only someone who knows what they are doing should attempt repairs to the brake system.

Customizing your truck: installing pickup truck accessories for truck beds

2007-03-31T09:27:00.000+07:00

How to install bed accessories to personalize your truck.

In recent years many people have purchased pickup trucks. But, once you have a truck, you begin to realize you need to personalize it, make it more useful. There are many accessories for your truck bed to do just that. Some of the most popular are Bed Liners, Bed Rails and Bed Covers, as well as cargo nets and the such. Many of these are easy to install in your own driveway with a minimum of tools or knowledge.

Bed Liners

A bed liner will protect the bed of your truck from the scratches and mars that can turn to rust and shorten the life of your truck. Also a bed liner will protect your cargo from slipping around and being damaged.

There are two types of bed liners: Spray on and Drop in.

Generally, the spray on type is best if a professional applies it. This way you are assured of the quality of the product and the installation.

The drop in type, on the other hand, is very easy to install and will last a very long time, even under harsh conditions. These are made of a hard molded plastic. The liners are specifically designed to fit your year and model of truck. It comes in one piece and is attached to your truck by compression fasteners. Begin by placing the liner in the bed of the truck. Then match up the holes along the top of the bed liner with the square holes along the bed of the truck. Place the plastic fasteners in the holes and gently tap them in place. Secure them with the plastic screws to prevent slippage and you’re done.

If you are unable to find a molded bed liner or you just don’t want one for your truck, then you may want to opt for a soft rubber mat. These are like a heavy-duty bath mat and are very durable. To install, just unroll it into the bed of your truck.

Bed Rails

Bed rails are used to tie down items in the back as well as to protect the top of the bed. They are usually attached using the square holes on the side of the bed, with either compression fasteners or bolts and washers. Position the rails along the top of the bed to test the fit. Make sure the attaching points match up with the square holes.

If you are using the compression fasteners, for say the plastic bed rails, then line up the holes and gently tap the fasteners to attach them. Secure them with the plastic screws provided.
If you are using bolts and washers, be sure the rails fit over the square holes because it is always best to keep from drilling too many holes in your truck. The more holes you make, the more opportunities for rust to get in. Place the rails on the top, with the attaching points over the holes. Place the washer inside the square hole from the bottom and line up the bolt holes. Attach the bolts, down from the top. Secure them using the appropriate wrench.

Bed Covers

Bed covers come in two styles, the hard fiberglass trunk lid type or the soft canvas tonneau cover. Both are particularly useful when you want to carry items that you don’t want damaged by the weather in your truck.

Fiberglass Trunk Lid

For the fiberglass trunk lid type of cover, you will need to drill holes in your truck. Review the instructions that accompany your lid for the appropriate size drill bit, proper placement and other important information. Always remember measure twice drill once.

Begin by attaching the hinges at the front of the bed with sheet metal screws, top to bottom. Then place the cover on the hinges, perpendicular to the truck and attach using sheet metal screws. Leave the cover up.

Attach the lifters to the cover first. A press fitting is usually used. Lower the cover. Check the placement of the lifters, inside the truck, usually inside the rail. Mark the screw holes.

Detach the lifters from the cover and return it to its perpendicular position.

Measure the screw holes again, just to make sure, and drill. Attach the lifters at the bottom using sheet metal screws.

Lower the cover and attach the lifters.

Close the cover and verify proper operation of the lock and hinges.

Canvas Tonneau Cover

The soft tonneau covers are a very good choice if you plan to carry large items that require more room, or if a trunk lid type is not available. Many of these are attached with thumbscrews and do not require drilling.

Generally, the soft covers require a frame to provide support for the cover as well as an attaching point. The frame is assembled and attached to the truck in the front and along both sides, with sheet metal screws. Be sure to measure the position of each screw carefully to avoid mistakes. The back of the frame is attached permanently to the cover.

Stretch the cover tight across the frame and attach it using either the heavy-duty Velcro or snaps provided.

Miscellaneous Truck Bed Items

Many people find that they need to tie things down inside their truck. They will use cargo nets, straps, rope, or whatever, so an anchor point would be a great help.

To add anchor points to the bed of your truck, select a large heavy gauge eye bolt with a short shank.

Determine where you want your anchor on the inside of the bed. Then crawl under the truck and verify that this placement will not interfere with electrical, gas, or drive lines. Above all make sure you won’t be drilling into the gas tank.

Drill the appropriate size hole and place the bolt in the hole and the nut under the truck. Use a lock washer to prevent the nut from working loose.

Place as many of these as you would like, the more anchor points, the better.

There are many other accessories that you can add to your truck bed to increase its functionality and beauty. Whatever you choose, make your truck, your own.

Auto questions: how horsepower works

2007-03-30T09:30:00.000+07:00

Often times car manufacturers will use terminology we may not completely understand, like horsepower. This article will define what horsepower is and how it works.

The term horsepower is used quite frequently by manufacturers to describe their product lines - whether it is a Chevrolet Corvette with four hundred horsepower or a Ford Mustang with three hundred. Since the muscle car era in the 1960’s, big horsepower outputs in cars have been used to draw buyers into dealerships and increase sales. But what is horsepower?

Horsepower is a term that was invented by James Watt back in the 18th century before cars were around. He came up with this term to measure the amount of energy needed for one horse to haul a load of coal out of a mining pit. The simple definition of horsepower is therefore energy required to lift 550 pounds of coal one foot in the air in one second.

Obviously times have changed, and very few people use their cars to haul coal these days. In simple terms, automotive horsepower is an indication of how able a vehicle will be at moving quickly from one point to another. Horsepower will also be directly related to a vehicle's top speed - a three hundred horsepower Mustang will have a higher top speed than a base Mustang with just two hundred.

The horsepower numbers that manufacturers quote in their marketing material is the estimated amount of power produced at the engine's crankshaft. As a result of internal combustion, the pistons inside an engine move in an up and down motion inside the cylinders. The cylinders are connected to the crankshaft by means of connecting rods and this movement causes the crankshaft to turn. The turning power of the crankshaft is therefore the gross horsepower output of an engine.

Gross horsepower is the measurement taken before any load is placed on an engine. When load is added to an engine, power is sapped by the frictional forces needed to turn the belts and pulleys (that drive the power steering, air conditioning and alternator) as well as the transmission, drive shaft, differential and axles. Net horsepower is therefore the measurement of power taken at the wheels.

The most accurate measure of net horsepower is to place a vehicle on a dynamometer. On this machine, the vehicle's wheels are strapped down onto large metal rollers and the twisting force or torque of the engine measured as the car accelerates through different gears. Torque is the measurement taken by the dynamometer, but this figure is converted into horsepower, as the two values are inter-related. Horsepower is the calculated from torque as follows: (torque x rpm)/ 5252 = horsepower. Net horsepower will always be less than the gross horsepower from an engine.

It is important to note that there will be a difference in net horsepower for two vehicles within the same model line. These differences are caused mainly by the variations within manufacturing tolerances used on the assembly line of a mass-produced car. So while two Corvettes may both be rated from the factory at four hundred horsepower, slight differences during the engine building process could cause one car to make three hundred and fifty horsepower at the wheels while the other makes only three hundred and forty.

Auto cleaning: how to remove stickers from your car window or bumper

2007-03-30T09:29:00.000+07:00

Stickers can be safely and cleanly removed from car windows and bumpers using a razor blade scraper and denature alcohol as a solvent. Here's how:

If you put stickers on your car, whether on the glass or the bumper, sooner or later there will come a time when you will want to remove them. Maybe it’s a bumper sticker with a message you know longer identify with, or a political campaign sticker for an election long past. Even if you still like the stickers you put on your car years ago, chances are they are looking pretty bad after years of sun and rain. Even those stickers that go inside the window glass get faded and start deteriorating in the ultra-violent light of the sun. Everyone has seen unsightly stickers like this, and even worse, the partially-peeled off ones that the owners attempted to remove without proper tools and techniques.

Actually, it’s quite simple to remove stickers from a car’s glass, chrome bumpers, or painted surfaces. The first step is to go to the hardware store or a paint store and buy two items: a razor blade scraper with a straight edge and a handle to safely hold it, and a small container of denatured alcohol. These items and perhaps a clean rag or two are all that you need.

Stickers on glass are the easiest to remove. The razor blade scraper will take them right off, and will not scratch the surface of the harder glass. There will probably still be some residue after all traces of the sticker are removed, and that is where the denatured alcohol comes in. Dab some on a rag and use it to scrub away the glue residue. That’s all there is to removing stickers from any kind of glass.

Getting old stickers off of a painted surface is another matter all together. The razor blade scraper will work, but you must be very careful or you will take off a layer of paint as well. The key is to hold the scraper at a low angle and work on small areas of the sticker at a time, starting with the corners. If you can slide the blade carefully between what is left of the sticker and the painted surface, you might be able to peel at least part of it up. Relatively new stickers come off with ease and can sometimes be peeled up in one piece. The older the sticker, the harder it will be to remove. You might have to remove it in tiny bits, alternately scraping with the razor blade and scrubbing with denatured alcohol to loosen the glue. Denatured alcohol is an excellent all-around solvent that is mild enough not to damage paint. Stronger solvents such as acetone would work faster, and are okay on glass, but might dull the paint finish permanently. Some solvents might even remove paint and ruin the finish. So no matter how resistant the sticker and residue are to removal, don’t be tempted to try anything but denatured alcohol.

Once all stickers and their residue have been removed, wash the car with soap and water. The alcohol should have evaporated by now anyway, but it doesn’t hurt to wash it off. Given the difficulty of removing really old stickers from a painted surface, you might want to limit future stickers to the glass or replace them after a year or so before they start to deteriorate.

Auto questions: how gear ratios work

2007-03-30T09:25:00.000+07:00

A gear ratio allows engines to operate optimally at different speeds. Detail about the differences in gear ratios and their parts and uses.

Whether your car uses an automatic or manual transmission, manufacturers have designed a specific set of varying gear ratios in the transmission. Some gears are better suited when moving off from a stop light or up a steep hill, while others work best when cruising along the highway. So, why are different gear ratios needed in cars and how do they work?

The majority of modern transmissions are designed with between four to six different gear ratios. These gear ratios are specifically chosen by the manufacturer for the particular engine or style of engine that your car or truck uses.

Despite the amazing power and torque that most modern engines produce, the internal pistons and moving parts will reach their maximum speeds at around five to seven thousand revolutions per minute (rpms). While this range of engine speed may seem very wide and impressive, in reality, it is a narrow range that wouldn’t allow our engines to be very useful in everyday driving without the help of gears of varying ratios.

Without the different gear ratios in our transmissions, engines would operate our cars with one gear only, which would have to be low enough to move the vehicle off from rest, yet high enough to allow cruising on the highway. If you put the shifter on a car in first gear, the car would move quickly away from rest, but at around thirty miles an hour, the engine would be screaming along near redline (manufacturer’s maximum ‘safe’ engine speed). Similarly, if the same shifter was put into a taller gear such as fourth, the engine would die and be unable to move the car off from a dead stop. However, if the car was already moving, the engine would probably start to come to life around thirty miles and hour, while highway cruising at sixty miles an hour would be at comfortable engine speed. While some motorized vehicles utilize one gear such as a golf cart or motorized scooter), their top speeds are not very high and their utility is generally quite limited.

This is where gears of varying ratios come into the picture.

The main purpose of a gear is to either magnify or reduce the speed of the output shaft (or crankshaft) from an engine. A shorter gear such as first or second on most transmissions, magnify our engine’s torque (twisting force) to the wheels by spinning slower than the engine’s output shaft. In this way, the engine is ‘assisted’ by the gears in moving a heavy object (our car) up a steep hill or away from a dead stop. Taller gears, such as those used in fourth or fifth gears, reduce the engine’s torque output to the wheels by spinning faster than the engine’s output shaft. This allows the car to move faster while the engine works at a leisurely pace – which in turn improves fuel consumption and driving quality (as engine noise will be low).

Our engines therefore use the different gear ratios in our transmissions to better utilize its power in all situations, improve both fuel economy and driving quality, as well as to keep the engine moving at a comfortable pace regardless of the vehicle’s speed.

Auto questions: how automatic transmissions work

2007-03-30T09:23:00.000+07:00

The automatic transmission has gained popularity in recent years because of the ease of its use. Information on functionality and maintenance.

The automatic transmission is by far the most common transmission found on the modern automobile, due to its universal ability to be used by all drivers, ease of operation, along with its inherent strength and long-term durability. Unlike a manual transmission, an automatic does away with the clutch pedal allowing drivers to move along seamlessly in heavy traffic without stalling their cars or having a tired left foot (used to operate the clutch pedal in a manual car). So how does an automatic transmission work?

The key to the 'clutch-less' automatic transmission is the torque converter. The torque converter essentially replaces the clutch and multiplies the turning power of the engine. The torque converter has no physical connection to the engine but is turned by means of process known as hydraulic coupling. The transmission shaft that runs through the torque converter fits around the crankshaft coming from the engine. These shafts sit next to each other with the slightest gap in-between. Transmission fluid fills the gap, and as the engine turns the main crankshaft, the transmission shaft (including torque converter) is turned as transmission fluid is not easily compressed. This is known as hydraulic coupling.

The torque converter looks similar to an oversized bagel, and contains three main components: an impeller (pump), stator (guiding wheel) and a turbine. The torque converter is filled with transmission fluid and by similar hydraulic coupling process, the impeller and turbine spin in tandem to each other. As they spin, the transmission fluid is directed towards the outer edges by centrifugal force, where it is re-directed by the stator towards the turbine. In this way, there is a constant flow of fluid which works to multiply the power of the engine. Modern torque converters will also have a lock-up feature that activates at speeds above forty miles an hour to improve gas mileage and the efficiency of the system. This lock-up occurs when a metal pin physically connects the impeller to the turbine. When your speed falls below forty miles an hour, the pin is released again.

The crankshaft and transmission shaft spin in harmony with each other. The transmission shaft runs trough the length of the transmission past a planetary gearset (sometimes multiple gearsets in newer automatics). The planetary gearset will include three main components: a sun gear, ring gears and drums, along with a planet carrier. Similar to our solar system, the planetary gears revolve around the central sun gear using the planet carrier. The planetary gears are of different sizes allowing different gear ratios to be used as the transmission moves through the gears (1st - 4th gears).

When in neutral, only the transmission shaft will turn. As first gear is engaged, the planetary gear corresponding to first, rotates around the sun gear on the planet carrier and locks onto the transmission shaft. This physical 'locking' engages the gear allowing the car to move forward. When the next gear is needed, the planetary gear for first is disengaged and the planetary gear for second is rotated onto the transmission shaft. During this shift into second, the central sun gear is held in place by an intermediate band. This flexible metal band (also call the brake band), fits around the outside of the clutch housing and has friction material around the inside. During shifts it loosens to release gears and tightens back down to 'lock' gears in place on the transmission shaft.

This is in essence how the modern automatic transmission works.

Turbocharger kit basics

2007-03-23T20:17:00.000+07:00

The five main components which all safely increase the power your automobile is making. A brief look at this technology.

The turbocharger is easily one of the most powerful and efficient performance parts that can be added to a car as it can raise the power output of an engine by over 40%! While some cars come with a turbo straight from the factory (e.g. Dodge Neon SRT-4, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, Audi A4 1.8T and the Subaru WRX STI), most cars are lacking one, which creates a big demand for turbocharger kits in the automotive aftermarket industry. So what’s included in the basic turbocharger conversion kit available on the market?

There are five main components that are included in most aftermarket turbocharger kits:

1) Turbocharger

2) Exhaust manifold

3) Wastegate & Blow-off valve

4) Oil supply

5) Intercooler

Turbocharger: The turbocharger or turbo is the heart of any aftermarket turbocharger kit. In basic terms, a turbo works by compressing the air contained in the exhaust gases, that’s expelled from an engine after combustion. The compressed air is then directed back into the intake pipes to the engine. This compressed, dense air allows more power to be created during the combustion process (when a spark ignites a mixture of air and fuel) which results in the engine producing more power. Turbos come in varying sizes, and generally speaking, the larger the size of the turbo, the greater its flow potential or ability to make power. One downside of large turbochargers is that the spooling time of its turbine/compressor wheels will take longer to reach peak speed, which causes a noticeable lag during acceleration before full power is generated!

Exhaust Manifold: The exhaust manifold is used to direct exhaust gases away from an engine after combustion. In a turbocharged engine, these gases can’t be expelled directly into the exhaust pipes as this exhaust flow is used to power the turbocharger. As a result, a modified exhaust manifold is needed to direct these gases towards the turbocharger. Most aftermarket kits will include one as this is an essential component in the turbocharger kit.

Wastegate & Blow-off Valve: The wastegate and blow-off valve are used to regulate the pressure in a turbocharged system. In simple terms the wastegate regulates the pressure in the exhaust manifold leading up to the turbo, while the blow-off valve regulates the pressure of the compressed air that leaves the turbo directed back to the intake of the engine.

Most wastegates on aftermarket turbocharger kits are built into the turbo specific exhaust manifold and directs exhaust gases away from the turbocharger housing if too much pressure is built up in the manifold. The wastegate is controlled by a vacuum actuator that constantly monitors the pressure in the exhaust manifold and opens the wastegate if pressure surpasses a pre-set value.

A blow-off valve is used to control the pressure or ‘boost levels’ that are being directed into the engine as well as to ensure that the airflow doesn’t reverse direction. As the revolutions per minute or ‘rpms’ rise in an engine, the exhaust flow directed towards the turbocharger housing will increase causing the turbine wheels to spin faster and faster (some turbos spin up to 150,000 rpms). The faster the turbine wheels spin, the more the gases are compressed, resulting in more boost or pressurized air being directed back into the engine. While higher boost generates more power, most engines have a maximum boost level that they can utilize safely. In situations where boost levels exceed a pre-set value, a valve in the blow-off valve opens releasing the excess pressure out of the system. The second purpose of the blow-off valve is to ensure that the airflow in the system moves in one direction. In situations where throttle input is quickly reduced – such as during transmission shifts – it is possible for the airflow to become reversed towards a region of lower pressure (e.g. the turbocharger housing). Due to this risk, the blow-off valve is programmed to open during these situations.

Oil Supply: This is a crucial but simple part of the turbocharger kit as all turbos will need an oil supply to lubricate moving parts and take heat away from the turbine housing. Most aftermarket turbo kits will include both an oil supply and return line that are plumbed into the engine’s oil system, at specific points.

Intercooler – Some inexpensive turbocharger kits will not include an intercooler but this is a vital component needed in order to extract as much power as possible from turbocharging. The one downside of compressing any gas very quickly is heat. The hotter a gas the more it expands decreasing the density of its molecules. Cooler, denser air is therefore needed to enable an engine to produce as much power as possible. Without an intercooler, turbocharged systems can produce compressed air that’s over 200 degrees Fahrenheit in temperature. This is where the intercooler comes in, and it is used to cool the compressed gases before directing them into the engine. Intercoolers are generally located in regions that receive an unobstructed airflow such as the front of a car. The most efficient intercoolers can reduce the temperature of the compressed air to within a few degrees of the outside ambient air temperature.

Auto questions: how fuel processors work

2007-03-23T20:15:00.000+07:00

A catalyst and heat are used to liberate hydrogen from natural gas or liquid fuel, to react with oxygen and produce electricity.

Hydrogen and oxygen can combine to produce electric power in fuel cells. Such electric power can replace internal combustion engines for transport and other important everyday applications. This technology is limited by the difficulty in storing and transporting hydrogen. It has relatively low energy per unit volume, so one would need to carry huge quantities of gas around to drive a car for even a small distance. Hydrogen can be cooled in to a liquid state and is somewhat more energy efficient for volume in this state. However there is no easy way to cool hydrogen and keep it in a liquid state at the individual consumer level. Fuel processors are used to liberate hydrogen from natural gases such as propane, methanol, ethanol and natural gas that are denser than hydrogen itself. Fuel processors may also liberate hydrogen from a liquid fuel such as gasoline. This makes it more practical to use fuel cells.

A steam reformer is one kind of fuel processor. Steam reformers work on either methanol or on natural gas. Liquid methanol and water are converted in to their gaseous states using heat and a catalyst. The methanol liberates hydrogen as it comes in contact with the catalyst. This process also liberates a noxious gas, carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is a pollutant. However, oxygen liberated from water vapor, converts most of the carbon monoxide in to carbon dioxide. This controls the pollution impact of a fuel processor. A fuel processor can liberate hydrogen from methane in natural gas. The carbon monoxide that is not oxidized can be burnt to reduce if not eliminate dangerous emission.

The volume of hydrogen generated by a fuel processor can be controlled by the rate of flow of methane or natural gas. This volume of hydrogen determines the amount of electricity generated, which in turns determines the amount of torque produced by an electric motor in combination with an inverter. This torque can be used for motion or any other application as in the case of other forms of energy. Voltage is produced as direct current. A fuel cell may be fixed at one place to generate electric power or it may be designed to be transportable as for example, in the form of a power source for a vehicle.

Proton Exchange Membranes, Alkaline, Phosphoric acid, Solid oxide and molten carbonate are other types of fuel cells. They all rely on hydrogen and oxygen to produce electricity. Fuel processors hold the key to overcoming the problems of storing large quantities of hydrogen gas and of keeping large volumes of hydrogen in liquid form.

Fuel processors produce some amounts of carbon dioxide, which may be a considered to be a pollutant for the ozone layer of the atmosphere. Fuel processors are also relatively inefficient in producing energy from fuel. Researchers are working on finding solutions to these drawbacks of fuel processors. However they remain a useful alternative to internal combustion of fossil fuels. Fuel cells can also replace batteries used to power electric devices and turbines that produce industrial amounts of power.

Auto questions: how odometers work

2007-03-23T20:13:00.000+07:00

You can see the numbers on your vehicle's odometer click over, but do you know what makes that happen? Find out how it measures the distance traveled and keeps track of the total number of miles an automobile has traveled.

An odometer can be defined as a "device that measures and keeps track of the distance traveled by a moving vehicle." The idea of the odometer, or the measuring of distance traveled, originally came from the famed inventor named Benjamin Franklin. When he was a postmaster, one of his jobs was to map out mail delivery routes. So, he took his horse and carriage out in order to figure out the best way to plan the different routes. Right away he realized that he needed a way to measure the distance of the carriageways so he could find the shortest ones. The device Franklin invented worked by counting the revolutions of the axles of his carriage.

Today, odometers can be found on every car, truck, van, and motorcycle manufactured today. Many bicycles have odometers mounted on them too. It keeps track of the total number of miles a vehicle has traveled. This is especially important because every vehicle title has a space where the current owner must write in the total numbers of miles the vehicle he/she is selling has on it. Turning back the odometer, or writing in a lower number on the title is fraud, and is punishable by United States law.

So, how does a modern-day odometer work? The odometer is located on the dashboard of a vehicle. It usually is located near the speedometer, and it also shares the same flexible cable if they run mechanically. The only part of the odometer you can see are the six or seven drums. They are all numbered from zero to nine. When the tires of the vehicle turn around, the cable causes the connected plastic gears in the back of the odometer to turn in succession. As each mile is traveled by the vehicle, the gears turn enough so that one (or more) of the drums clicks over to the next higher number. Usually, if the vehicle has traveled one mile, the next to the last drum to the far right clicks up a number. If, however, the vehicle already has an odometer reading of eighty-nine thousand, nine hundred and ninety-nine miles, when another mile is driven, all five of the drums will click over to the next number. This, of course, will make the new odometer reading ninety-thousand miles.

The drum that is the farthest to the right is called the "tenths" counter. It adds up every tenth of a mile that a vehicle travels. When it reaches ten tenths of a mile, of course, it clicks back to zero, and the number in the next column clicks up a number higher.

There is a second type of odometer on a vehicle that is called a "trip odometer." Unlike a mileage odometer, this odometer can be readily set back to zero with the simple push of a button. It's not for measuring and keeping track of total miles put on a vehicle. Its purpose, just like its name implies, is to simply keep track of the number of miles that a certain trip from point A to point B used.

This type of odometer can be especially useful for checking to see how many miles per gallon you're getting on a tank of gasoline used by a vehicle. You can fill the gasoline tank up in your vehicle, reset the trip odometer, and drive the vehicle until it almost runs out of gasoline. Or, you can fill up the tank, reset the trip odometer, and watch for when you have driven enough to use up, let's say, a quarter of a tank of gasoline. If the tank holds twenty gallons, and you use a quarter of a tank, that means you have used five gallons of gasoline. If you have driven one hundred and fifty miles, according to the trip odometer, that means that your vehicle got thirty miles per gallon of gasoline.

Auto questions: how diesel two-stroke engines work

2007-03-23T20:12:00.000+07:00

Hot compressed air combusts with injected diesel in a closed cylinder to drive a piston and produce extraordinary torque for displacement volume.

The principle of a 2-stroke diesel engine is to ignite a combination of compressed air and fuel, to drive a piston that in turn rotates a crankshaft. Valves control the intake of air as well as the outlet of exhaust. A turbocharger compresses air before it is fed in to the cylinder. An injector sprays diesel on to the compressed air. Combustion results in the motion of the piston in a massive power stroke. Each cylinder has between 2 and 4 exhaust valves at the top. All the exhaust valves open at the same time. The piston in each cylinder opens the air intake ports as it completes each downward stroke. The air intake drives out the remaining exhaust and the outlet valves close to allow the piston to move upwards with the force of the compressed air.

2 stroke engines work better on diesel because fuel combustion is more efficient than with a petrol-based system. A diesel 2-stroke engine is able to accommodate more air in the cylinder as compared to a comparable displacement in a 4- stroke petrol engine. This produces a relatively high amount of power as compared to a petrol engine of comparable size. 2-stroke diesel engines are used in heavy equipment and machinery such as locomotives, ships and generators. A 2-stroke diesel locomotive engine will typically have 16 cylinders, each with a displacement of over 600 cubic inches. Such an engine may produce more than 4 thousand horsepower. 2-stroke diesel engines are very reliable and relatively fuel-efficient as well. They have simple design but offer rugged and extremely powerful performance. These engines have relatively few parts and are therefore comparatively easy to maintain.

The turbocharger is at the heart of a 2-stroke diesel engine, for it is primarily responsible for the relatively enormous amount of power the engine can produce for its weight and size. The turbocharger gets a greater volume of air into the cylinder. This increased air volume with additional diesel from the injection system makes for a more potent explosion inside each cylinder. The torque generated is consequently very high compared to a petrol engine with the same displacement. This system is especially productive in high altitudes where the air becomes rare.

The volume of air available for combustion in the cylinder reduces at high altitudes. This effect is partially mitigated in an engine with a turbocharger. A turbocharger in a 2-stroke diesel engine uses hot exhaust to drive a turbine. The latter is connected to an air pump. This system produces a differential pressure that results in a great gush of hot air entering the cylinder. A heat exchange system cools the hot exhaust before it is packed in to the cylinder. More air can be accommodated as a result of such cooling. This ensures more efficient and powerful combustion when diesel is introduced in the chamber. A supercharger may also perform the role of a turbocharger. A supercharger runs on a belt rather than on exhaust gas. The principle of accommodating more air in the cylinder remains the same whether a turbocharger or a supercharger is used.

Auto safety questions: how red-light cameras work

2007-03-23T20:07:00.000+07:00

In response to the growing numbers of traffic accidents at intersections, red light cameras have been installed to catch violators.

It is a scenario drivers are becoming all too familiar with: they think they have gotten away with running a red light only to receive a ticket in the mail months later. Police officers are not available to patrol every intersection anymore, both because there are too few of them and because they are needed on high-priority calls. Still, it is necessary for the police department to keep an eye on the traffic situation at all times. Too many accidents occur every year because motorist run red lights, speed, and ignore other traffic laws. For this reason, many jurisdictions have installed red light traffic cameras to catch offenders when they think nobody is watching. If you have ever been at the receiving end of a ticket because of these so-called "camera cops," it can be helpful to understand how they work.

One day Joe Driver receives an upsetting piece of mail. There is a note about a traffic violation that occurred weeks or months ago along with a fine and a picture of his car at the time of the incident. He has been caught in the act of performing a driving faux pas, even though he never saw a cop. It occurs to Joe that that box he noticed on the traffic light pole was not the crosswalk sign for which he had taken it. Instead, it was part of a camera designed to keep an eye on the intersection. Still, he wonders how this machine connected him to the picture. Was someone watching the camera at the far-off police station just waiting for him to drive by? No, the technology used in these cameras is actually far more sophisticated than that. Here is what happened the day that Joe ran the red light.

There is a traffic camera mounted at the intersection that Joe passes on his way home. Since he is running late and there is no one else there, he decides not to stop when he sees that the light is red. Instead, he rolls through at 35 mph. Buried in the asphalt of his lane, there are two loops of wires through which electricity run called induction loop triggers. Every time the traffic light to which these wire are connected turns red, the camera and computer in the system are activated. One loop in the set detects when Joe's car approaches the intersection, while the other one can tell if he crosses the stop line. This happens because the metal of Joe's car disrupts the normal electromagnetic levels of the charged wires. Any shift in the levels serves as a trigger, hence their name. Once triggered, the wires send messages to the traffic computer.

The computer is manned when Joe's car crosses the first trigger, at which point it waits to see if he will cross the second while the light is red. Once this happens, it sends a message to the camera to turn on. The camera, which is generally digital, although older models use film cameras, takes a picture just as Joe crosses the stop line and rolls into the intersection. This picture captures the car's license plate number. After a short pause, the camera takes a second picture, which catches Joe inside the intersection. Beyond providing double proof of the traffic violation, this second picture is also used to gauge Joe's driving speed. The computer calculates how far the car has traveled in between shots (which occur at set times) to judge if he was speeding on top of running a red light. The computer adds the day and time of the violation, as well as where he was and how fast he was going. Finally, it notes how much time passed between the light turning red and the car's entrance into the intersection.

Each violation photo is sent to the computer's memory bank, where it is stored until collection. The police station accesses the photos and has only to match license plates to their citizens. They then print out a ticket and a copy of the photos, which are mailed to the car's owner. If the state in which the violation occurs does not hold the owner responsible if another driver committed the crime, the owner will still receive the ticket. However, the camera will also take a picture of the front end of the car to identify who was at the wheel. In this way, the owner can prove his innocence in court if necessary. Police departments are very fond of these cameras because they provide indisputable proof of wrongdoing and work all day every day. Drivers, however, are not so fond of what some consider a sneaky way to catch people. They argue that there is no room for leniency, as a camera cannot give a warning under special circumstances. Like any other ticket, these violations can be disputed in court, but most people simply mail in the fee they have been charged. This is another perk for law enforcement, as they can catch everyone who runs red lights. This generates more money for the department on top of protecting thousands of lives every year.

In conclusion, the red light traffic camera offers a deterrent to reckless drivers, reminding them that someone -- or something -- is always watching them on the road. New designs are being implemented in different cities that use lasers, radars, and even video sensors in exchange for buried trigger wires, which require tearing up portions of the road. They cost little to maintain and are very reliable, all of which are important factors in a time when police departments are undermanned and under-funded. It is law enforcement's hope that the widespread use of these cameras will curb the rising numbers of accidents and deaths that result from running traffic lights.

Auto questions: how catalytic converters work

2007-03-23T15:01:00.000+07:00

The catalytic converter plays a major role in automobile emission reduction. A guide to function, repair and parts.

If you own a car that’s 10 years old or older and you live in an area that requires annual testing for automotive emissions, you may have already heard the dreaded words “You need a new catalytic converter”. If you haven’t, you soon will. If you’re like most drivers, you may be vaguely aware that your car has a catalytic converter but you have only a vague notion of its function. Hopefully this article will help you understand a bit more about this key component of your vehicle.

In the 1970’s when we first became concerned about the effect of automobile exhaust on air quality, a great deal of research was done to define the problem. If cars were perfect and burned their fuel completely, the exhaust would consist of carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O). Since nothing is perfect, least of all cars, the analysis of actual exhaust gasses revealed the presence of several troublesome components. First, it was found that a portion of the gasoline that entered the engine was not completely burned and escaped into the exhaust. This component was labeled as “hydrocarbons (HC)”. Another result of this incomplete burning was “carbon monoxide (CO)”. The third major component was labeled “nitrogen oxides (NOx)”. Air is actually composed of over 70% nitrogen which when subjected to the high temperatures and pressures inside an automotive engine combines with some of the oxygen in the air to form these compounds. The exhaust has other components but these are the main elements that the automotive industry focused on.

Because most of these components were created as a result of incomplete burning of the gasoline, a lot of the early work to reduce them was centered on improving the mixing and burning of the air and fuel. Manufacturers experimented with engine and fuel system designs and modified the proportions of fuel to air. Fuel injections systems began to replace carburetors in order to more precisely control the flow of fuel and electronics became a factor in engine control. All of these efforts had some degree of success but as air quality standards became ever more restrictive it was evident that a new approach was needed. It was at this point that the concept of the catalytic converter began to be seriously considered.

What is a catalyst? Many years ago, chemists discovered that there were materials present in certain chemical reactions that were not changed by the reaction. In other words, these materials were the same after the reaction as they were before it. Even more surprising, the reaction would not occur if these materials were not present. Somehow they enabled the reaction to occur without taking part in it. They called these materials catalysts and they are widely used in industry. The materials are often rare earth metals like palladium and platinum which are very expensive. But luckily the amount needed for use as a catalyst is small and since the catalyst is not changed by the reaction it can be used over and over.

As it turns out, experiments showed that passing exhaust gasses over a catalyst of a certain composition will cause the pollutants in the exhaust to be completely burned and the result is water (H2O) and carbon dioxide (CO2). The challenge was to create a catalyst that could be attached to the car and survive for 50,000 or so miles of driving. The catalytic converter is the answer to that challenge. A catalytic converter starts with a ceramic honeycomb about 3 inches by 5 inches by 8 inches. Some are larger and some are smaller. This honeycomb is coated inside and out with a very thin layer of catalyst material. It is them place inside a metal container with a hole where the exhaust gasses enter and one where they exit. The unit is then placed in the exhaust system near the engine. In order for the converter to operate properly, several conditions must be met.

First, the exhaust gasses must be at or above a certain temperature. This is why the converter is placed close to the engine. Second, there must be a certain minimum surface area of catalyst for the gasses to come in contact with. This is the reason for the honeycomb design. It provides a large surface area in a small space. Third, the ratio of exhaust gas to air must be maintained within very rigid limits. If these limits are not observed, the converter will not function and could even be damaged. These limits are maintained by placing a special sensor in the exhaust just before the converter. This sensor detects variations in the ratio and signals the fuel supply system to increase or decrease the amount of fuel being supplied to the engine. Lastly, the converter has to survive its own operating temperature of 1500 degrees F or more, exposure to water, mud, snow and road debris and continue operating for a government mandated period of 50,000 miles or more. The catalytic converter is an amazing device that allows us to enjoy the freedom of our automobiles while helping keep our air clean.

Auto questions: how car computers work

2007-03-23T14:54:00.000+07:00

Today's cars make intense use of modern electronics. Here's a primer on how the computer in your automobile works.

The computer in your car is actually very similar in function to the computer on your desktop. The difference is that while your desktop PC is a multifunction machine capable of word processing, Internet connection, etc., the automobile computer is specialized to perform only one very complicated function, controlling your car.

The capabilities of the car computer vary widely depending on the make and model of automobile. In some cars, the computer may control only the fuel and ignition systems while in others it can also control the temperature in the passenger compartment, the instrument panel and even the braking system. Let’s look at exactly how the computer performs some of these functions.

Computers first made their mark in the auto industry in the mid-‘70’s when engineers were seeking ways to control automobile exhaust emissions. They realized that they needed a way to more precisely control the introduction of fuel into the engine and began experimenting with electronic fuel injection. An automobile must operate over a wide range of conditions from idling at the stop light to full throttle passing acceleration on the highway. Controlling the fuel flow over such a huge variation in requirements seemed a tailor made job for a computer. Before fuel injection, cars used carburetors to control the flow of gasoline. Changing the characteristics of a carburetor required actual physical changes to the design. Often making a change to improve performance in one area would have and undesirable effect on another area. In a computer controlled system, changing the operation required only a change in program rather than a mechanical change. Several years of experimentation and improvement led to reliable inexpensive computer controlled fuel injections systems that significantly improved automobile performance. Their success with this effort along with the increase in speed and power of computers encouraged them to try controlling other auto functions in a similar manner.

It turns out that having more precise control of the ignition system also led to better performance and control of exhaust emissions. When coupled with high energy ignitions and spark plugs, they also achieved significant decreases in required maintenance. As with home computers, the automobile computer continued to increase in power and speed and decrease in price placing more computer power at the disposal of the engineers. They responded by developing antilock braking systems, digital instrumentation, automatic climate control and a host of other computer controlled features.

But this revolution would not have been possible without advances in many other fields. In order to perform these control functions, the computer must receive and output information. On your home computer, you input information via your mouse and keyboard and receive output from a printer. An automobile computer receives its input from sensors and sends out signals that control fuel injectors, spark coils or digital speedometers. As computers were developing there was a simultaneous development in sensors that greatly improved the quality and reliability of the information input to the computer. As an example, to control a fuel injection system the computer must know how much air is entering the engine at any particular time. This can either be measured directly by an air flow sensor or calculated from measurements of such things as air temperature, pressure and engine speed. In either case, these pieces of information are supplied by sensors attached to the engine and connected to the computer. The computer then calculates the proper signals to send to the fuel injectors that actually allow fuel to enter the engine. Computer controlled ignition systems require sensors that measure the engine speed and piston position. The computer then calculates the precise instance at which to send a signal to fire the spark plug and ignite the gasoline. Sensors mounted on each wheel send signals to the antilock braking system. If the computer detects that one wheel is beginning to move more slowly than the rest (in other words, it’s skidding), the computer signals the braking system to release pressure on that wheel to stop the skid. It does this on each wheel separately and simultaneously and it obviously does it much faster than the driver could.

Every function that the computer performs is controlled by a program. These programs are written by the engineers who design the systems. Unlike the programs on your personal computer which are stored on disk drives, these programs are stored in special electronic circuits called ROMs (Read Only Memory). This provides for instant startup and high reliability.
When the use of computers in cars was first being considered, computer manufacturers were very confident of success. After all, they had sent computers to the moon. A series of humiliating failures soon convinced them that this project wasn’t as easy as it seems. The automobile computer must operate reliably from -40 degrees to 140 degrees. It must be impervious to water, oil, dirt and a variety of other contaminants. It must not fail and leave the car without brakes or lights or any other safety related items. It must not malfunction when subjected to electrical interference from radios or ignition systems and it must start immediately and operate continuously and reliably under all conditions. These are just a few of the issues that automobile electronics designers faced. Despite these huge challenges, the computer and automobile engineers persisted and today’s cars are safer, cleaner and more reliable than they’ve ever been. And the use of automobile computers is behind most of these advances.

Auto safety questions: how power brakes work

2007-03-23T14:52:00.000+07:00

The advent of power brakes was a milestone in automotive development. A guide to funcionality, repair, parts.

If you’ve ever driven a vintage car from the early 1950’s or before, you realize what an advance the development of power brakes was. If you were a member of the driving public during the changeover, you probably recall the adjustments that were necessary in driving techniques. The early systems were somewhat touchy and led to many undesired screeching stops but today’s braking systems provide smooth reliable and safe stopping power. And with the advent of anti-skid braking systems, automobile manufacturers have taken another big step in automotive safety.

The basics of the automotive braking system are the same regardless of whether you are considering power or non-power, disc or drum so let’s consider that first. When you push on the brake pedal, you are forcing a plunger into a cylinder (called the master cylinder) filled with brake fluid. Brake fluid is an oily liquid that has features of corrosion and temperature resistance that make it especially suitable for brake systems. As the plunger goes into the cylinder, fluid is forced out into metal tubes called brake lines. These lines run from the master cylinder which is usually mounted just behind the brake pedal to each of the wheels. At the wheel, the line connects to another cylinder (called the slave cylinder). As the fluid enters the slave cylinder, its plunger is forced outward and presses the brake pad or shoe against the spinning wheel. The friction between the shoe and wheel cause the wheel to slow down. By adjusting the relative sizes of the master and slave cylinder pistons, you can magnify somewhat the force applied to the master cylinder. This effect is however limited by physical constraints such as where the cylinders have to be placed.

The idea behind power brakes was to find a way to magnify even more the pressure applied to the master cylinder so that even relatively weak drivers could apply the maximum force and stop as quickly as possible. They decided to use a variation of the same principle that was already in use in the master and slave cylinder arrangement. Suppose I have a hollow sphere and stretched across the middle of the inside of the sphere is a flexible wall called a diaphragm. If I start to remove air from one side of the sphere and allow air to enter the other side, the diaphragm will bend toward the side with less air (lower pressure). Now if I attach a rod to the center of the diaphragm on the low pressure side and then attach that rod to my master cylinder plunger, the rod will push on the plunger and apply the brakes. How hard it pushes depends on how big the diaphragm is and how much air is removed. So the first step in developing power brakes was to attach a flattened sphere with a large diaphragm inside to the master cylinder.

The next question was how to remove air from the sphere. As it turns out, a running engine is constantly sucking in air to mix with gasoline so it was an easy task to attach a small hose from the engine to the sphere and let the engine take air from it. Of course we only wanted it to be connected when we applied the brakes so a valve was needed. Now we attach our brake pedal to the other side of the sphere so that when the pedal is pushed it pushes on the other side of the diaphragm and our system is complete.

So when you step on your power brake pedal, two things happen. The brake pedal pushes on the high pressure side of the diaphragm and therefore on the rod attached to the low pressure side and then on to the master cylinder. This is important because if the power booster unit (this is the official name of the sphere) fails, we still have manual brakes. At the same time, the movement of the brake pedal opens the valve that allows the engine to remove air from the low pressure side and the diaphragm moves and applies even more pressure to the master cylinder and therefore the brakes. So the pressure of our foot is magnified and the brakes are applied much harder for extra stopping power. There is much engineering work involved in finding just the right size diaphragm, making sure the valve opens properly (not too fast and not too slow) and matching all the other components for smooth reliable operation but the basics remain the same.

Now another problem arose. Cars stop fastest when their wheels do not skid. The shortest stopping distance is achieved when the brakes are applied such that the wheels are almost but not quite skidding. Now that power assist gave anyone the ability to apply maximum force to the brakes, skids became even more likely. So the next step was anti-skid braking systems. When computers became a viable component of automobile systems, sensors were mounted on each wheel. These sensors monitored the movement of the wheels and when the computer detected that a wheel had stopped spinning but the car was still moving, it released the brake on that wheel until the skid stopped and then reapplied the brake. This happens much faster than a driver could react and means that the car will stop in the shortest possible distance.
Brake systems today are typically broken into two separate systems so that if one fails the other can still stop the car. Combined with anti-skid brake systems, this provides a level of safety and reliability that was unheard of even 10 years ago.

Auto questions: how wires, fuses and connectors work

2007-03-23T14:50:00.000+07:00

This article is the first step toward understanding the electrical system of your car.

Wires, fuses and connectors are three of the most basic components of an automotive electrical system but though they may seem simple, there is a great deal more to them than meets the eye. In this article we’ll discuss some of the basic characteristics of each and why they’re built the way they are.

Automotive electrical wire consists of an inner core of metal (usually copper) and an outer sheath of plastic. The metal (called the conductor) carries electrical current from one point in your car to another. The plastic (called the insulator) keeps the conductor from touching other metal parts and sending electricity somewhere that you don’t want it. The conductor can be either solid meaning that it is one round filament of metal or stranded meaning there are several filaments twisted together. Why the difference? Stranded wire is more flexible than solid wire and the more strands the higher the flexibility. This is important in cars since the wires will be subjected to constant movement and vibration that could cause a solid wire to break. You will seldom find solid wire on an automobile. The filaments in the conductor can be solid copper or copper coated with solder. Solder is a mixture of tin and some other metals that binds to the copper and makes it easier to connect wires together. Copper has a reddish orange color while solder is silver colored.

Wire comes in sizes ranging from finer than a human hair to diameters measured in inches. Wire size is usually given in terms of wire gauge. If you look at a typical piece of wire say from a house, you will find stamped on its insulation somewhere a series of numbers and letters that say for instance “14 AG”. This stands for 14 American Wire Gauge and indicates the size of the conductor. A higher number indicates a smaller wire. Exactly the opposite of what you’d expect. Typical automotive wire will range from 18 AWG to 26 AWG. The more electricity you expect your wire to carry, the larger wire (lower gauge) you need.

There are many different types of insulation available on wire also. Each type is tailored to a certain set of operating conditions. Some stays flexible at low temperatures while another can resist high temperatures. Automotive wire must endure temperatures from -40 degrees F to 140 degrees F as well as water, mud, salt, oil, gas and tar. As you might expect a good deal of work goes into selecting the right insulation. Information about the insulation is also stamped on the outside of the wire.

Fuses are called electricity’s safety valve. They are designed to interrupt the flow of electricity when some condition occurs that would cause an excessive amount of electricity to flow. Their primary function is to prevent fire but they also protect sensitive electrical equipment. There are three or four different types of fuses that you might see in an automobile but they all operate in the same way. The first type consists of a cylinder of glass with a metal cap at each end. Inside the glass you can see a piece of metal that is connected to the end caps. The metal can range is size from a small wire to a 1/8 in wide strip. This is the fusible link. The next type resembles the first except the glass tube is replaced with a tube made of off-white ceramic. The last type is a small square or rectangle of plastic with two metal tabs protruding from one edge.

Now how does a fuse work? Suppose you have a wire that connects a battery to some electrical device, say a light bulb. Electricity flows from the battery through the conductor of the wire to the bulb. As the electricity flows, it also heats up the wire. The more electricity that flows, the more the wire heats up. Now suppose you cut the wire and attached each end of the wire to an end of a fuse. Now the electricity flows from the battery through the metal inside the fuse (the fusible link) to the bulb. The fusible link is made of a special type of metal that melts at a fairly low temperature and it heats up just like the wire does when electricity flows through it. If something goes wrong and suddenly a lot of electricity starts flowing in the wire, the fusible link heats up to its melting point and melts which interrupts the flow of electricity and prevents damage to our wires and equipment. We said earlier that the fusible links varied in size and the reason should now be apparent. The smaller the link the less electricity it takes to melt it. So we can choose a fuse appropriate to the amount of electricity that should flow in any given circuit. All fuses regardless of their size or shape work on this same principle.

Connectors are one of the most common failure points in electrical circuitry. Because of this and because the automotive environment is so harsh, automotive manufacturers use specialized connectors that they have built specially for them. Sometimes they even build them themselves. Connectors are designed to connect one or more wires together and protect the connection points from water, salt, dirt and chemicals that can cause corrosion or otherwise destroy the connection. A connector consists of two parts; one side has protruding metal pins while the other has metal sockets into which the pins slide. Metal that is exposed to the air corrodes. This corrosion forms a film on the metal and this film is an insulator. If the connector is to work properly, this film must be removed before the connection is made. The sockets are designed to cut through this layer of corrosion as the pins are being inserted thereby exposing clean metal and making a good contact. In some cases the pins and sockets are coated with a thin film of gold since gold is one of the few metals that do not corrode. The design of reliable connectors is an art that has been developed over many years.

Auto questions: how car cooling systems work

2007-03-22T18:09:00.000+07:00

The cooling system is an important part of your automobile. Major points on the history and functionality.

The design of the automobile cooling system has not changed significantly in concept in over 75 years. Advances in materials and manufacturing techniques have made it more efficient and reliable but it is still the same basic design that cars of the 1930’s and earlier used. Although it is a low tech system compared to others on a modern car, the cooling system plays a vital role in the operation of the vehicle. A car can function if its antilock braking system fails but it cannot function without a cooling system.

There are 6 major components of the cooling system. The first is the radiator which is probably the one with which most people are familiar. The others are the water pump, the engine block, the hoses, the fan and the radiator cap. We’ll look at the function of each of these components in turn but first, what does the cooling system do?

The engine in your car functions by combining gasoline and air in the combustion chambers and setting it on fire. It burns at temperatures approaching 2000 degrees F and some of this heat energy is used to propel the car. The rest escapes, some through the exhaust pipe and some heats up the engine. If you’ve ever put your hand by the tail pipe of a running car, you know that the exhaust gasses coming out are hot. If you drive your car at 55 miles per hour for 30 minutes or so at night and then stop and open the hood, you will see that the exhaust manifold is glowing red hot. Without a means of removing this heat, the engine would burn itself up in just a few minutes. So it’s the cooling system to the rescue.

The engine of your car contains special passages through which water can flow to remove excess heat. These passages must allow maximum contact of the water with the combustion chambers but must not allow the water to mix with the lubricating oil or gasoline that is also in the engine. In other words, the passages must form a sealed system that keeps the water separate from other parts of the motor. I’m sure you’ve seen what happens when water is left on a surface to evaporate. It leaves behind white stains. Theses are substances that are dissolved in the water and they can be left behind in your engine too. When these substances coat the walls of the passages, they reduce the amount of heat that can be removed from the engine and can cause overheating. This is why we use anti-freeze in our cars year round. The antifreeze contains chemicals that prevent the formation of deposits on the passage walls and also deterioration of the metal and keep the cooling system operating at peak efficiency.

The radiator is a square or rectangular arrangement of copper or aluminum tubes surrounded by hundreds or thousands of thin metal fins. Copper and aluminum are both excellent at transmitting heat which is what the radiator is intended to do. Hot water enters at the top of the radiator and flows to the bottom. The water heats the tubes and fins. Cool air flows around the fins and tubes and heat is transferred from the tubes to the air. When the water reaches the bottom of the radiator, it is significantly cooler. Here again, the use of anti-freeze is important to keep the tubes from clogging or having deposits form on the walls.

The radiator is connected to the engine by a hose at the top and one at the bottom. Hot water from the engine flows into the radiator through the top hose is cooled as we explained above and flows back into the engine through the bottom hose. Failure of the hoses is responsible for more roadside strandings than any other component on the car. They should be inspected every year and replaced every four to five years. Overheating caused by cooling system failures is more than an annoyance. Modern engines can be severely damaged and require expensive repairs.

Under its own power, water would not flow from the engine to radiator and back. Causing this movement is the job of the water pump. The water pump is mounted on the front of the engine and is driven by the engine through the fan belt. Water is pumped out of the engine and into the top of the radiator from where gravity causes it to flow back into the engine.

When a car is first started on a cold day, it is desirable to have the engine reach normal operating temperature as quickly as possible. This can be accomplished by restricting the flow of cooling water until the engine heats up. The thermostat is the device that is responsible for this. It is essentially a temperature operated valve that closes at low temperatures and opens at high ones. The thermostat is usually located at the top of the engine where the top radiator hose connects. When the engine starts, the thermostat is closed which causes the water in the engine to heat up rapidly. When the water reaches the right temperature, the thermostat opens and water begins flowing to the radiator where it can be cooled. If the thermostat sticks shut, the engine can overheat. If it sticks open, the engine may take a long time to reach proper operating temperature.

The radiator cap is located at the top of the radiator and is basically a pressure operated valve. As water heats up, its pressure increases. Some increase is desirable since it causes the water to move faster which increase cooling. Too much pressure however can cause radiators or hoses to burst. The radiator cap releases water when the pressure becomes excessive to prevent such problems. Some caps also work in reverse allowing water to reenter the radiator when the pressure drops.

The last component is the radiator fan. When the car is not moving, the fan forces air through the radiator to cool the water. Some fans are mounted on the water pump and driven by the fan belt while others are electrically driven. Some are made to spin freely when the car is moving at high speeds while others always spin at the same speed.

Winterizing your car

2007-03-22T18:04:00.000+07:00

Prepare for those cold winter-time driving trips by getting your car ready with a few simple checks and tasks to enhance safety.

Fall is that time of the year when we need to prepare for the winter months ahead. You should never put this off too long, because not only could your vehicle end up broken down on an isolated road, there might not be a phone to call for help and you could get frostbite. Preparing your car for frosty cold temperatures is the smart thing to do.

Start with the tires. If you can, you might want to get snow tires for a couple of reasons. They are designed to help you get better traction especially on ice. All-weather tires can help you save wear and tear or even damage to your regular tires. If you don’t have snow tires, you better make sure that you have good tread or you will be all over the road when it is slippery, and you may not be able to brake suddenly if someone skids toward you.

Another preparatory thing you can do is put two to four bags of heavy sand in the trunk of your car, placing them over your wheels. These will provide traction and help to secure the vehicle on slippery or muddy roads.

Next, check the wiper blades. You can buy windshield wiper blades made just for the winter, which will protect against sluggish or torn wipers that can streak rather than clear the windshield. Make sure your windshield washer fluid is filled at all times.

Don’t forget to check your radiator coolant to make sure that you have enough antifreeze. If your antifreeze is two years old or more, you need to have the radiator flushed and new antifreeze added. Make sure you change your air filter and oil filter, along with the oil, as prescribed by the manufacturer. Your car will run more efficiently if you keep it well maintained, especially in extreme weather. You should make sure that you check your power steering fluid and brake fluid at the master cylinder. The reason you check all the fluids and filters is you don’t want to be trying to figure out what is wrong with your car when it is snowing or so cold you have to wear gloves.

Get your battery ready for the winter, too. Pull the caps off the top of your battery and make sure the fluid is filled to the top. You can use a flat tip screwdriver to pry them up while the car is not running. Then clean the battery posts and the battery cables, which go on them. You can use a battery cleaner, a file, a wire brush or sandpaper. It is a good idea to have a set of booster cables in your trunk, in case you leave your lights on, or in case a friend or family member needs a jumpstart. Auto parts stores sell cans of gas that protect your fuel line from freezing in the winter; just add it to your tank before you fill up, and the cost is only a couple of dollars. Tire pressure should be checked at least monthly, because in the winter you can lose up to ten pounds of air pressure per month.

Essential tools like a jack, screwdriver, flashlight, and an emergency or distress signal should be kept in the trunk, along with a blanket and drinking water, in case you get stranded. When these tasks have been addressed, you can drive away feeling secure, knowing that you’ve taken sensible precautions to keep your vehicle running smoothly and safely when Jack Frost comes to town.

Auto questions: how tires work

2007-03-22T18:01:00.000+07:00

An explanation of what a tire is and how it works for safety and handling.

The tires on your car would seem to be simple and straightforward but every year manufacturers spend millions of dollars on research and development to improve the quality and reliability of tires. In this article we’ll examine some of the things that tire makers must be concerned about.

Tires have two main sections, the tread which is the part of the tire that rolls along the ground and the sidewalls that connect the tread to the wheel. Although there are many different sizes and tread styles, there are really only two major manufacturing methods for tires. The bias ply tire was used almost exclusively for cars and trucks in the U.S. until the 1970’s. Although it was used in Europe for many years, the radial ply tire did not gain acceptance in the U. S. until its fuel saving capabilities were recognized in the 1970’s. Each type of tire has unique characteristics that make it desirable for certain applications.

The rubber like compound that tires are made of is a blend of many different substances chosen to produce the exact combination of qualities that the manufacturer wants for a particular tire. Some of the things that tire makers are concerned about are tread life (how long will the tire last), traction (will the tire resist skidding under any conditions) and durability (can the tire resist damage from running over objects or being exposed to heat, chemicals, etc.). Creating a quality tire requires reaching a good compromise on these features because a tire with exceptional tread life may not have good traction and vice versa.

Bias ply tires consist of layers of nylon or polyester mesh encased in rubber. These sheets of mesh run from one side of the tire to the other at a slight angle. This angle is called the “bias” and each layer is called a “ply” thus creating a “bias ply” tire. These layers of mesh are placed in a mold and hot liquid tire compound (what we call the rubber) is injected. The outside edge of the mold has the pattern that forms the tread of the tire. The injection, heating and molding process is sometime called vulcanizing. When the tire compound cools and solidifies, the mold is opened and the tire is ready for use.

The construction process for a radial ply tire is very similar except that belts of nylon, polyester or even steel mesh are wrapped around the tire under the tread area. Because these belts go around the circumference of the tire they are called “radial plies”. The injection and molding process is essentially the same.

Now we’ll look at the different features of tires and examine the differences between bias and radial ply tires. The first feature is tread life. When we buy new tires, one of the first things we ask about is tread life. How many miles will this tire travel before it has to be replaced? There are two main factors that affect tread life, the hardness of the rubber and “squirm”. If you were able to watch a tires tread as it moves down the road, you would see that it doesn’t remain straight and flat on the ground. It moves from side to side and moves up and down. This is called “squirm”. The effect on the tire is the same as the effect on a rubber eraser when you rub back and forth on a piece of paper. The rubber is scrubbed off. If you make the tread from hard rubber, it is more difficult for it to be scrubbed off but you pay a price in loss of traction. Tires with hard rubber tread skid much more easily than ones with soft rubber. Put an eraser on a table and push it sideways. Now put a checker or domino on the table and push it sideways. The checker moves easier because it is harder and has less traction. The other way to increase tread life is to prevent squirm. This is an advantage of the radial ply design. The belts under the tread in a radial ply tire hold it steady and minimize squirm. A typical bias ply tire will last 10 to 20,000 miles whereas radial tread life starts at about 40,000 miles. An added advantage is that reducing squirm increases gas mileage significantly.

The next important tire feature is traction. Here again there are several things that affect traction. The first is size of tread and design. Under the ideal conditions of a straight, hard, dry road, maximum traction is achieved by putting the largest possible amount of rubber in contact with the road. This is why race cars use wide tires with no tread (slicks). Unfortunately on a wet road these tires act like water skis, lose contact with the road and skid uncontrollably. Passenger car tires must perform well on wet, dry, muddy or snow covered roads and treads are designed to accommodate all of these. Another thing that affects traction is rubber hardness. As we discussed above, softer treads have better traction but lower tread life so the tire designer must compromise. And the last factor is squirm. Here again radial tires have the advantage since the belts hold the tread in better contact with the road and therefore provide better traction.

The last major design consideration is resistance to road hazards. As a tire travels down the road, it is constantly flexing. This movement creates heat. Carefully feel of your car tire after you driven several miles and you’ll see what I mean. Tires must withstand heat, cold, gas, oil, chemicals and being driven over bumps and through potholes. By varying the construction techniques and the formulation of tire compounds, manufacturers are able to create tires whose characteristics vary so that the right tire can be used for each particular application. There is much more to be said about tires but this should give you an idea of how amazing those tires on your car are.

Buyers guide: how to choose a new car

2007-03-22T17:56:00.000+07:00

Choosing a new car is an important decision in your life. Do a little research before going to the car dealership if you want some extra bargaining power.

I recently bought a new car, and prior to buying it I spent months researching different aspects of available autos, test driving cars, and thinking about the characteristics I wanted in a car. I am now very happy with my new car, and I think I made the right choice. My daughter was involved in an accident a short time ago, and her car was totaled. She had only a few days to select a new car, but found what she wanted and is happy with her new ride. Whether you have a long period of time to look for a new car, or have to get one in a hurry, there are several things you need to think of first.

For many people, the number one consideration in selecting a new car is the price, and you need to have an idea of what you can afford before you select a car. This will narrow down the field from which you will choose, and allow you to concentrate on looking at cars you will be able to buy. If you can only afford a $15,000 car, and you spend a lot of time looking at $40,000 cars, you will be disappointed when you finally buy what your budget allows if you have seen all the nifty features on cars out of your reach. If your budget is much smaller and you can afford only a used car, then limit your search to used cars in your price range.

Spend some time researching online before you go to the car dealer to look. It helps to know what the basic prices of different cars are, and how much the payments should be. You can find interest calculators on many websites that allow you to put in information such as price of the car, for how long you want the financing, and the interest rate; the calculator then tells you how much your payment will be per month. When you are at the dealership, the car salesman and financing person may try to push higher priced options, interest rates, and different kinds of insurance and warranties; if you have done some research and know what everything should cost you will be in a much better bargaining position.

Some things you may want to look for while researching cars include safety, gas mileage, size of the car, warranty, transmission, and power of the car. My daughter’ number one concern for a new car was safety, since she had some injuries from her accident. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration does crash testing on new cars, and you can access this information online. A number of television news programs also have frequent reports on crash testing, and tell which cars are safest, as do consumer magazines. If you gather brochures from the car dealers, safety details of the different models are explained. If you have concerns about safety, choose a car with a good crash test rating.

Warranties on new cars vary from the standard 3-year, 36,000 mile warranty to 6-year, 100,000 mile warranties. If you find a car you like with only a standard warranty, you can usually purchase an extended warranty if your budget allows. You can research the reliability of different cars online, and many sites will tell you which cars have to be repaired the most and the least. Some dealerships may also offer extra services such as free oil changes, tires, or car washes; you can check the auto manufacturers’ websites for current promotions on various cars.
Fuel economy varies from car to car, and generally, autos with larger engines burn more fuel. Many vehicles today promise increased fuel economy; there are hybrid cars that switch back and forth from gas to electric and get up to 60 mpg, and diesel vehicles that get more miles per gallon. When you are looking at cars, notice the window sticker that says “Fuel Economy Information.” This has a picture of a gas pump, and tells you how many miles per gallon you can expect to get with city driving and with highway driving. It will also say what the estimated fuel cost will be for a year of driving, based on 15,000 miles. Features such as engine size, automatic or standard transmission, and number of cylinders can affect the fuel economy of a car, so if you want to save money on gas, take note of the things that will increase the car’s fuel economy.

Decide what size of car is best for you. Factors such as having several children or pets, needing space for tools or hobby materials, having a disabled family member, or business-related needs might suggest a larger car, such as an SUV or mini-van. If you are single and usually drive by yourself, you may want a smaller compact car. If you often have large or dirty objects to haul around, you may need a truck. Whether you are buying a new or used car, having a size in mind and whether you want two doors or four doors, a large or small trunk, and other similar details will help you narrow down your choices.

You can get a car with a standard, or manual, transmission or with automatic transmission. With the standard transmission, you must manually shift the gears as the car accelerates; with automatic transmission, you just put the car in drive and the car shifts automatically. Some people like to shift the gears; it’s fun, and a standard transmission gets slightly better gas mileage, but it can be hard work if you have to start and stop often, as in traffic, or stop on an incline. Automatic transmission is more expensive, but is much easier to drive; if you don’t know how to drive a standard, it will take you a few days of practicing with the clutch to learn to drive smoothly.

Some cars have more power, and accelerate much faster than other cars. Reasons why you might want an auto with more power include having to accelerate on freeway ramps often, using your car or truck for pulling trailers, or you may just like the feeling of driving a car with extra power. A smaller engine with 4 cylinders would be more economical than one with 6 or 8 cylinders, but the larger engines would have more power. Not all cars come with different types of engines, but you do have a choice of getting a more powerful engine on some models. For a few trucks and cars, you can upgrade to a diesel engine, which will give you better fuel economy along with more power.

After you have thought about what characteristics you need in a car and have done some research, you can start shopping for a car. If you live in a large city, there will be several dealerships offering the same types of cars, and you will have a wide choice of colors and other features. If you are looking for a used car, you can also check the classified ads in the newspaper for cars being sold by individuals. If you buy a used car that won’t have a warranty, it’s a good idea to get the car checked out by a mechanic before buying it; many used cars, especially older models, appear to be good deals at first but then need repeated repairs, which drives up the original cost quite a lot.

On most car buys, you can bargain with the salesman to get a better price than the one stated on the window sticker. Some models, such as Saturns and Mini Coopers, are sold at a stated price, and the salesman does not work on commission; with others, the salesman is allowed to reduce the price within certain limits if you can convince him to do so. Ask about promotions that the car’s manufacturer may be running at the time you are buying a car; rebates, bonus cash, military and recent college graduate discounts, 0% financing, and other specials may help to substantially reduce the cost of the car. If you want to trade in a car, check the “blue book” price before car shopping so you have an idea of what it’s worth. If you want to finance the car, find out what your credit score is, but do not let each car dealer run a credit check on you; this will lower your credit score if it’s done repeatedly. If you have never bought a car before, take someone with you who is experienced in this area; there are many variables that can be confusing if you’re unfamiliar with the process of buying a car.

Buying a car is a big investment, and taking the time to think about what kind of car you want, how much you can spend, and how you’re going to pay for it can help you make a better deal. Researching various details of the car you want to buy is important; whether you have several months or only a few hours to decide which auto you want, knowing what experts have said is valuable information and can aid you in the car-buying process.

Auto questions: how e-zpass works

2007-03-22T17:53:00.000+07:00

Guide to obtaining an EZ Pass. Definitition of Radio devices such as EZ Pass, and how they work.Advantages of using tags, possibility for future uses.

Ever find yourself heading out to a sporting event, or a concert, driving along headfirst into a line of people waiting to pay a toll to get onto a particular highway? Notice the fast lane. More than likely, it’s got a sign above it that says something like, “EZ Pass ONLY-No Cash’. Groaning, you remind yourself that any day now, you’re going to get yourself one of those things. Sound familiar? Here are some easy to take steps that will put you into the fast lane in no time.

Log on to www.ezpass.com, and select your area. You will be directed to fill out a form asking for information such as your driver’s license number, your credit card number, and/or checking account to be debited. Most states give you the option to choose either unlimited access charged to a credit card, or prepaid amounts paid from your primary checking account. You may also have the option to reload the account when it reaches a specific amount. This is a recommended practice, saving you the embarrassment of an invalid tag, and possibly a ticket for passing through without a valid tag.

EZ Pass tags are actually transponders. The transponder is also known as a Radio Frequency Identification System, or RFID. RFIDs are one of the fastest growing technologies today. They are used for a wide range of purposes, from EZ Pass tags to animal identification. RFID uses wireless radio transmission to uniquely identify your vehicle, and uses contactless data links (the tag and the monitor) to transmit data identifying you seamlessly.

Once you have filled out all of the information requested on the EZ Pass form, you will be mailed a tag to apply to your car’s windshield. The tag should be installed directly above the hub of the rearview mirror, in order not to impede your vision in any way. The tag will come with self adhering tape strips, backed with Velcro for easy installation and removal of your tags. Transferring your tag from one vehicle to another is simple. Simply apply the Velcro backed strips to as many vehicles as you own, and switch the tag as needed. Additional tags are also offered by EZ Pass, and you may have up to four tags for each account.

With your tag securely in place, as you approach a toll area, follow the signs which designate certain lanes for EZ Pass use. Slowly drive into the lane, approach the gate, and stop. Your tag will register, and a light will instruct you to proceed. In some states, stopping is not necessary, in others; you must still have the toll gate lifted. Make sure you know the rules for your state. And proceed out onto the highway, leaving the long lines and struggling for cash behind you.

Many airports are now beginning to use EZ Pass for paying airport parking fees. Simply drive up to the designated lane and either hand the attendant your tag, or allow it to be scanned by whichever device is available at that particular venue. Talk of using EZ Pass for sporting events and other high attendance events is in the air, and there may even come a time when traffic violations may be paid directly from the tag. RFID technology has made long lines a thing of the past.

Tips to stay awake while driving

2007-03-22T17:52:00.000+07:00

If you are one of those people who gets tired when driving, use these simple tips to keep yourself alert and awake.

There are some people who just love to drive. They can drive all the way from Texas to Florida without making so much as a pit stop. Then there are those of us who, as children, were lulled to sleep by being in a moving car. If you are one of those people whose eyes start to droop just by driving down the street to pick up some milk from the grocery store, then these tips to stay awake while driving are for you.

If Somebody Is In The Car With You

* If you are lucky enough to have somebody in the car with you while driving, strike up a conversation. Granted, you don’t want to talk about something uninteresting like why the stock prices have been dropping (unless you love that sort of thing), or else you will just become more tired. If the person is of driving age, trade off driving duties every hour or so.

* Again if you have somebody in the car with you, especially, if they are younger and unable to drive, come up with some fun car games. You can play the alphabet game where you have to find something around you that starts with the letter A, then the letter B, all the way until you get to the letter Z. You can also play games like I-Spy where one person spies something that the other person has to guess based on its description.

If You Are Alone

* Play some music you love. You will probably want to stay away from anything that may lull you to sleep like classical music, so play some fun music that you can sing along to. Who cares who sees you belting out oldies or country songs or hip-hop? You must do whatever you can to stay awake.

* Whenever you feel yourself starting to get tired, stop and take a break. Stop at a gas station or rest stop and get out of the car and stretch and walk around. You need to get your blood pumping. Even if you have to make several pit stops in the course of your trip, do it.

* Drink caffeinated drinks like coffee and soda. This should keep your energy high.

* Eat something. Of course, you don’t want to have an entire turkey dinner while you are driving and become comatose, but simply snack on some peanuts or chips. This will give you something else to focus on other than being tired.

* Even if it is winter time, try not to keep the car too warm. Being warm causes the body to want to sleep, so try to keep your car as cool as you can possibly stand. If you have to, roll down the windows to have some fresh air hit your face and keep you alert.

* My father, who gets notoriously sleepy when driving, always keeps a wet towel in a plastic sealable bag on his passenger seat. When he starts to get tired, he puts the wet towel on his forehead or neck and then blasts the cold air. This short blast of cold air on your face will keep you alert and awake when your head starts to droop.

While some of these tips may be humorous and silly, it is important to note that countless death and accidents have taken place because somebody fell asleep while driving. Not only will following these tips keep you safe, it will keep others around you safe, as well. Don’t try to force yourself to keep driving when you start getting really sleepy and all of these tips fail. Simply stop in a safe spot (like a well-lit grocery store or a gas station) and take a short snooze if you have to.

Auto questions: how tire pressure gauges work

2007-03-22T17:45:00.000+07:00

Tire pressure gauges receive air from an inflated tire and the resulting pressure readings can easily be read by a driver.

What is the difference between a flat (but undamaged) tire and one that is properly inflated?

The obvious answer is how much air the tire contains. Air is a measurable gas with specific properties such as mass. When air is pumped into a tire, its individual atoms want to press against the outside of the container, especially when things get crowded. Most automobile tires can hold 30-35 'pounds' of air without becoming stressed. Any amount of air under 30 psi (pounds per square inch) can cause the tires to sag, which in turn can lead to excess pressure on the walls and less efficiency. Overinflating tires can reduce the amount of rubber actually contacting the road (called the contact patch) and lead to unexpected blow-outs. Some stunt drivers may deliberately overinflate tires for specific handling effects, but the average driver shouldn't attempt it.

Tire companies and car manufacturers emphasize the importance of keeping tires inflated to a proper psi. This information is almost always printed on the tire itself, as well as in an interior part of the doorwell and in the owner's manual. Some newer car models even have special sensors which can detect tire pressure problems. But most cars will not automatically alert drivers when tires are under or overinflated, so drivers need to routinely check their tires for damage and proper inflation. For this task, many drivers use a pen-shaped device called a tire pressure gauge.

A tire pressure gauge has a round knob on one end which fits tightly over the valve stem of a pneumatic tire. A driver twists off the valve stem protector and places the bottom of the knob squarely over the valve stem itself. By pressing down lightly, air should escape from the tire and into the chamber of the tire pressure gauge. Inside a smooth metal cylinder lies a soft rubber piston which glides along the internal walls. As air from the tire is released, this piston is forced to the right side of the chamber. The pressure from this piston pushes a spring-loaded rod containing a free-floating plastic or metal stem. When the rod moves as far to the right as the pressure will carry it, it springs back to its original position along with the piston--but the plastic or metal stem will remain in place until the driver pushes it back.

The sides of this stem have calibration lines which correspond to specific pounds per square inch. When the pressure gauge pushes this stem out, it stops at a measurable distance. The driver can look at the portion of the stem closest to the gauge's body and read the highest line visible. This information should be compared to the recommended inflation pressures listed in the owner's manual. If the manual recommends 35 psi and the gauge reads 25 psi, then the driver must add 10 additional 'pounds' of air. All four tires must be checked and inflated (or possibly deflated) until they all have 35 psi of air. Many service stations feature air pumps with tire pressure gauges built into the hose near the valve. These gauges work on the same principle as the pen-shaped model- tire pressure forces a calibrated stem out of its cylinder. Tire pressure can be checked as the driver continues to use the air pump.

How do turbochargers work?

2007-03-20T11:47:00.000+07:00

Many car manufacturing companies offer turbo chargers on their vehicles.

A turbocharger or ‘turbo’ is one of the most effective ways to produce more power from an internal combustion engine and is commonly used in the automotive, marine or aviation industries. A simple addition of a turbo system to an engine can increase power by as much as 50% over the non-turbocharged variant of that engine. For this reason, several automotive manufacturers including Audi, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Mazda, Lotus, Mercedes Benz, Bentley and Volkswagen offer turbochargers on some of their models.

The internal combustion engine works by igniting a fixed mixture of air and fuel in a controlled environment to produce ‘power’ by causing a piston to turn the main crankshaft. The spent gases remaining after combustion are then expelled from the engine through the exhaust system and the combustion process repeats itself once more. So where do turbochargers fit into this process?

In simple terms, turbochargers work by forcing compressed air into an engine which increases power output and reduces both exhaust emissions and fuel consumption at the same time. But how is this compressed air generated and what prevents damage from being done to the engine due to the increased pressure? Let’s look at the typical turbo system in more detail:

If more air is drawn into the engine, then more power can be produced during the combustion phase. Turbochargers work by redirecting the spent exhaust gases which still contain un-burnt air and fuel through a series of pipes onto a turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is connected by a shaft to a compressor wheel on the other end of the housing. This housing, with the two wheels on either end, is commonly referred to as the turbocharger or ‘turbo’. As the exhaust gases reach the turbine wheel, they cause it to spin and as the compressor wheel is connected to the turbine wheel, it begins to spin simultaneously as well.

As the compressor wheel spins faster and faster, exhaust gases are drawn into the turbo housing and rapidly compressed. This compression happens very quickly as the compressor wheel can spin upwards of 150,000 revolutions per minute! The compressed air then exits the housing and is directed back into the intake system.

One by-product of compressing any gas very quickly is heat! As heat causes expansion, the hotter the gas the less dense the molecules will be. As a result of this, most modern turbocharger systems include a Heat Exchanger more commonly referred to as an ‘Intercooler’ which looks similar to a radiator, and works as a coolant system that cools the air leaving the turbo housing. As the temperature of the air leaving the intercooler is lower, the density of the air molecules increases. This cooler air is then directed back into the main intake system and into the engine where more power is produced during the combustion process. This entire process is then repeated over and over again with the exhaust gases that are expelled from the engine.

As this turbocharging process repeats itself, the pressure in the engine and entire system increases and if left unchecked, permanent damage will eventually be done to the engine. To prevent damage, all turbo systems have a wastegate in the intake system which opens up whenever the pressure exceeds a preset level e.g. 12 psi (pounds per square inch). The preset pressure in the system is commonly referred to as the boost level. The higher the turbocharger boost level, the greater the power that can be produced by an engine. In automotive applications, most turbocharged street cars run somewhere between 8-20 psi of boost, while racing cars with stronger engine internals can run upwards of 36psi.

Gas vs electric motorized scooters

2007-03-20T11:46:00.000+07:00

Scooters are very popular and come in electric or gas powered types.

A very popular item these days is the scooter. No, I’m not talking about the foot-powered variety, but motorized scooters. These come in two categories, gas or electric powered. Before choosing what type you might like to own, you should do a little research and find out a few facts first.

What you’ll need to research first is what laws your particular state might have placed on these vehicles. Even city laws could place restrictions on the operation of scooters, so always check first with your local police or Department of Motor Vehicles for pertinent information. The state of California is probably the strictest state for compliance because of their emissions standards. This unfortunately restricts you to almost exclusively buying an electric scooter because almost all gas powered scooters won’t be legal. Only gas scooters with a California Compliant sticker can be operated in the state, however, even if you live in another state and these scooters are available, you might want to purchase one because they are less polluting and quieter. Once you’ve taken care of the legality issue and found that you can own and operate either type of scooter, you’ll need to make the decision on which one to buy.

Either type of scooter is a motorized vehicle and should be treated as such, along with common sense safety issues. Always wear a fitted helmet and obey traffic rules. You can also choose to wear kneepads or elbow pads for added safety. You should consider age restrictions also and not allow small children under eight to operate them without close parental supervision. Don’t ride at night, stay out of traffic and keep off gravelly or slippery roadway surfaces.

On average, a gas-powered scooter goes a little faster than an electric model and can average around 20 miles per hour and can carry an average weight of 300 pounds, all depending on the model. They can go anywhere from 20-40 miles per tank, which can vary from a 1 liter to 1.5 liter tank. They take unleaded gasoline and have a variety of brake systems and manufacturers. One example is the Viza V2 gas powered scooter. It has full front and rear suspension, dual disc brakes and a 40cc, 2.1 horsepower motor and goes 22 miles per hour, while the Mosquito Hawk 4X has a 35cc Robin/Suburu four stroke engine, is California Compliant and has Shimano Deore cable disc brake system. These are only two examples of gas scooters and there are many more available.

The other type of scooter is the electric powered variety. As stated above, these tend to go slower, but don’t pollute like their gas powered cousins. They won’t take you as far as a gas scooter, averaging around 15 miles per charge, which will take anywhere from 4-8 hours to accomplish. The weight capacity is about the same, with most averaging about 250 pounds and like the gas powered scooters, electric scooters have several different types of motors, tires, brakes, etc. Some examples are: the ZZ Cruiser by Rad2Go with a 300 watt motor, speed of 14 miles per hour, range 12 miles and a 24 volt battery. By comparison, the Rad2Go Leopard Shark has a 400 watt motor, speed of 16 miles per hour, range 12 miles and a 24 volt battery.

All scooters come with warranties, from 30-60 days and will have a choice of safety equipment and accessories available. So, whatever your reason for buying a scooter, whether as an alternate to a car or simply for fun, check around and be careful so you can truly enjoy your new acquisition.

Auto improvement: how to install a car alarm

2007-03-20T11:43:00.000+07:00

Prevent the theft of your belongings or your car itself by installing your own car alarm system with these simple tips.

Why take your car to a professional to get an alarm installed, when you can do it yourself? It's easy enough if you know how. You'll need scissors, a knife, soldering gun, soldering material, crimps, drill, screw bit and screws, test light, tie wrap, double-sided mounting tape and a voltage meter. Be sure and completely read the installation manual that comes with the product. Because there are so many different makes and models of cars, and because each model is different when it comes to locks and doors, you will need some assistance from the manufacturer's help line. There should be a phone number listed on the package where you can call to find out what type of locking system your car has. Also ask what color of wire to connect to in order to interface the locking characteristics of the alarm. Question the advisor on how to install the relay for the door lock feature and what color of wire to connect to for the starter disable feature. In addition, ask how to hook up the relay and find out how to set up the voltmeter to test the door lock wires on your particular car. One more thing they can help you with is finding out how to access the factory door triggers. Check the installation manual to help you decide where to place each component. If you'll be installing an alarm with a current or voltage-sensing feature, ask the technician what color of wire works the overhead light and how you can access it.

Choose a solid metal surface under the hood where you'll attach the siren. Point the horn of the siren down toward the ground so that moisture won't settle in it. Drill a hole through a rubber grommet in the firewall of the car and slide the siren's wire through the hole into the main compartment of the car. Connect the power wire for the alarm to the car battery. Feed the wire through the grommet and into the passenger compartment. Place a fuse on the power wire next to the battery, checking the manual for proper fuse size. Mount the shock sensor by following the description in the manual. Drill a hole in the dash for placement of the LED status indicator. Feed the LED wire through the hole and use the double-sided tape on the back of the LED and place it over the hole in the dashboard. Find the wires that work the power door locks. Connect the door lock relay to the lock/unlock wires and attach the alarm wire to the relay.

If the alarm has current sensing, follow the tips from the technical advisor, and find the wire that works the courtesy light. Connect the current-sensing line from the alarm to the courtesy light wire. Locate the factory door triggers if the alarm doesn't have current or voltage sensing. Connect the factory door trigger to the alarm. Locate the starter wire on the steering column, a few inches below the starter switch. Cut the line and connect the starter disable relay. Connect the starter disable wire from the alarm to the relay. Mount the valet switch under the dashboard. Connect all the wires to the proper inputs and outputs of the alarm module. Using the drill and screw bit, mount the module to a safe and sturdy surface under the dash. Use the tie wraps to secure the wires of the harness and place it back under the dash.

Arm the alarm and then give it a test run. When you arm the alarm, the doors should lock and after disarming the alarm, the doors should now unlock. Arm the alarm once again and open a door using a key. The alarm should sound. Disarm the alarm, shut the door and arm the alarm yet again. Hit or bump the car with some force. The alarm should sound again. After disarming and arming the alarm one more time, try to start the car. You should not be able to start the car. If the alarm does not work properly, check your wiring and connections and try again. Installing your own alarm system isn't necessarily easy, but it saves you a bundle and will work as great as if the professionals had installed it.