If a stereo isn't "playing right", it doesn't mean the unit is broken.
The car stereo has been installed, everything seems to have been done correctly, but there is still a problem. What can be done about it? If a trip to the dealer, or installer is not part of the available solution, or if the job was done by a friend, how should the troubleshooting be done effectively? The answers may lie within this article. Read through the following steps until all sample problems have been corrected or at least removed from possible causes of the issue at hand.
Maintenance and preventive car will help alleviate potential problems with any car stereo. All car stereos need a little maintenance to keep them performing the way they were meant to perform when they were initially installed.
1. All tape heads must be periodically cleaned, and there are kits available for this purpose. The kits may be purchased from auto departments at most chain stores; auto parts stores, or even the dealer if necessary. The kit usually contains an alcohol-based fluid, and cotton-covered swabs that resemble Q-Tips. Use one drop of the liquid on the cotton swab and gently wipe the tape heads for 2-3 seconds. This should be done after every 20 hours of tape play. This will keep road dirt, static electricity, and cigarette tar from gumming up the inner workings of the player.
2. CD players need maintenance as well. Some things to remember about CD players: skipping may be caused by fingerprints, dust, or scratches on the CD inserted into the player, so always be certain the playing surface is smooth and clean. To keep CDs clean, try using CD Saver by CRS. This kit provides a special cloth and a silica-based liquid to clean the surface of the CD. To clean the inside of a CD player, there are CDs that are made expressly for that purpose. Usually, these can be purchased at a dealership or auto parts store.
3. Speakers should be tightened from time to time, as they can attle loose from bumpy roads and general car vibration. Also check for debris on speakers that are mounted on the rear dash, facing upward. Road grit can accumulate, causing rattling and distorted sound. Also this grit and dust can get trapped between the speaker grill and the cone inside; if this is the issue, remove the speaker grill and use a hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove the offending particles. Replace the speaker grill and try the sound again. Also clean the speakers with a damp cloth or an Armor-All cloth and sound should return to normal.
4. If the stereo doesn't seem to be getting power, check the fuse box. Sometimes the fuse will burst from a power surge, or simply burn out. Changing a fuse is an easy task because the fuse box is usually located under the dash or in the glove box. Fuses are very inexpensive and are sold singly or in sets. Simply remove the fuse that is blackened, and match it to one of the new fuses purchased, place the new fuse into the fuse box and the radio should now have power.
5. Sometimes the sound may seem "thin" when the stereo is playing. This could mean that the left/right channel controls are out of phase. Reverse the leads on one speaker. If nothing else, the base response will dramatically increase.
6. Signal loss may occur if the antenna wire becomes loose or unplugged. Check under the cowl or front fender, and in some cars, the glove box. If the wire is connected, try disconnecting it and reconnecting it to be sure there is a clean, tight connection. Also, if this was a home installation, it is prudent to re-check any soldered or taped connections to be certain all wire still have a tight connection. One last thing to check on door speakers, see if the wire has been crimped or cut by the door. Often speaker wires can come loose and be tangled in the door threshold, causing distortion or loss of sound altogether.
7. If options 1-6 have been tried and there is still a problem with sound in a speaker, check to see if there is a short in the wire. If there is an uninsulated stretch of wire, or if the electrical tape has come loose, there could be dirt and loose wiring to blame. Something else to consider is that the uncovered wire may have touched other metal on the car, which is called grounding. In either case, clean the connection, re-twist wires together, and apply fresh electrical tape.
Diagnosing an ailing car stereo is fairly easy, but can be time-consuming. Remember, that 50% of car repair is patience. Go through the steps above in an attempt to identify and rectify the issue the stereo is having. Nothing is more frustrating that to pay a "professional" to do something that could have been done in the driveway at no cost. If all else fails, it might be time to go to a repair facility, or worse-the dealership.
Saturday, April 28, 2007
Common car stereo installation problems
Auto maintenance and problems: does your car need a check-up?
When your car starts making funny noises or smells, it may be time to go in for a checkup before something goes wrong.
As your vehicle begins to lose that new car look and feel, you may start noticing new things that deserve a second thought. Some changes are to be expected as normal wear and tear, such as a scratched seat, scuffed floor mats, or even a chip in the windshield from a stray pebble.
But other observations may be more disturbing. Here are some things to watch and listen for, and when they occur, give some thought to taking your automobile in for a checkup, much as you would someone who exhibits symptoms of possible illness:
1. Sniff out the burning smell. If your vehicle starts to smoke under the hood, or if you notice an electrical burning smell that increases rather than disappears, have your car checked out by a professional technician. It may be a simple case of low radiator fluid. On the other hand, there may be an electrical short in the system, which means you could run into big trouble soon if the problem is not short-circuited. A dull burning odor may mean your engine is low on oil, or is not processing oil correctly; there may be a leak, for example. Unless you know how to check for any of these possibilities, have someone check out your car who knows what to do.
2. Root out the rattle. If you're pretty sure the noise is coming from a marble or coin that fell into a vent or another part of the car, you're probably okay. But if the rattling sound is coming from the engine or below the car, as in the chassis or wheel areas, get it checked out. Your hub cap may have picked up a loose stone, on one hand. But on the other, you may have a loose or lost part. Missing screws need to be replaced pronto before you end up with missing parts.
3. Locate the whining sound. A low whine could point to a loose or broken belt in the engine. It also may suggest that two parts are rubbing enough to cause friction and require lubrication. Find out what the problem is to avoid serious breakage that is sure to be costly and time-consuming when repaired.
4. Check the temperature gauge. When the indicator shows the engine temperature to be hot, and it remains so, you should definitely find out what's wrong. An overheated engine can lead to serious problems if you don't treat it early on. The vehicle may require something as simple as a fan belt, a water pump, or radiator fluid, but failing to act promptly could be dangerous.
5. Double-check the windshield defroster. If your car has both front and rear defrosters for the windows, make sure they work correctly. When you notice that one or both sets of windows steam up or fail to clear readily after you push the defrost lever, something may be wrong. Driving in rain, snow, or even fog without adequate defrosting help can lead to an accident. Take the car in for an estimate of what is wrong and how much it will cost to get fixed.
These are just a sampling of the problems you may encounter with an aging car. Keep your eyes, ears, and nose alert to possible changes in your vehicle's operation, and take care of even small glitches right away to avoid the possibility of worse problems later.
Safety tips for women drivers
Women who drive alone should take a few extra precautions that can protect them from potential problems on the road.
Driving home from work after dark, you notice a vehicle following you closely. Turning down a different street than usual, you can see that the person turns as well. Weaving through an unfamiliar neighborhood you notice that the driver behind you is sticking close and you question his motives. What should you do?
a) Pull over, get out, and confront him?
b) Try to out drive him?
c) Head for home and hope you can get into the house before he catches you?
None of the above is a good idea. Any competitive response is likely to keep your pursuer engaged. Instead, drive to the nearest police station where there are sure to be police vehicles parked on the street, with a few officers coming or going. Roll down your window and call one over to explain the situation.
If this is not possible, drive into a well-lit convenience store or shopping plaza. Honk loudly to attract attention and roll down your window to explain to a respectable looking group of pedestrians. Or quickly get out of the car and merge with a group headed into the store where you can telephone for help.
Women who travel alone need to be aware of their surroundings, both in and out of the car. Here are more safety tips:
1. Don't drive after dark into unfamiliar areas if you can avoid it. It's easy to get lost, appear confused, or stand out as a lone driver in neighborhoods you don't know. Predators will quickly pick you out as a potential victim.
2. Avoid traveling alone. Instead, take along a friend or co-worker if possible. That way you will face less risk of being singled out for trouble.
3. Take a cell phone with you. Be sure it is charged or you have the battery cord to use if necessary. Have a plan ready to get help if you are approached by someone with ill intentions toward you.
4. For long trips, you may want to bring along a "pretend friend" that is actually a dummy figure with a ball cap pulled low to look as though a male passenger is snoozing alongside you in the car. You can purchase these if you don't want to make one yourself.
5. Keep an emergency kit, flares, food, and water with you in the car at all times. If your car breaks down, you won't have to get out and walk for needed items.
6. If your car does stop running, pull to the side of the road and call for emergency assistance on the cell phone. Set up flares if no one is around to bother you. If someone pulls over and offers to help, stay in your car and roll down the window a few inches only, just enough to tell the person that help is on the way or to ask that he make a phone call for you if you don't have a phone.
7. Never accept a ride with a man you don't know. Even if he seems friendly, you don't know what may happen. Stay put until help arrives.
8. Take a car repair class so you can handle the basics. Learn how to change a tire, jump the battery, or maneuver a series of possible problems. Then you won't have to rely on strangers as much and you may not need to call for help.
Don't become a travel statistic. Plan ahead to protect yourself by following a few basic tips like those outlined above.
Automotive maintenance - 60,000 mile maintenance - what to expect
Ready for your 60,000 mile maintenance service for your automobile? Here are some services you may expect.
For most people, their automobile is one of their most prized possessions. This is not necessarily because it is a cool or new car or because it is the latest or most expensive model. If you live in a city where you work thirty miles from home or where the nearest grocery store is ten miles away, your car is your livelihood. Without it, you would be taking a bus or hitching rides with friends. Because your car is so important in getting you where you want and need to go, take care of it. This doesn’t mean you should take it in for a car wash every two days (although nobody is stopping you if you want to do that), but it does entail making sure the insides of the car are up to par. If they are not, this could cause further damage to your car that you were not expecting both mentally as well as financially. In addition to a 15,000 and 30,000 mile service, you will also need to take your automobile in for a 60,000 mile service. Here are the items you can expect to be inspected, replaced and fixed.
* Timing belt: A broken timing belt could cause extensive damage to your engine, so this is probably number one on your list when getting your 60,000 mile service. More than likely, your mechanic will replace the timing belt at this time, since most, if not all, automobile manufacturers suggest this service. You will want to be sure you have the crankshaft and camshaft seals replaced at this time, as well.
* Cooling system hoses: At this time, your mechanic will also replace your cooling system hoses, if necessary.
* Spark plugs: Both platinum and non-platinum spark plugs will be changed at this time.
In addition to the above services, you will also have all the services done that you would at a 30,000 mile service. They are listed below.
* Automatic transmission service: This includes a transmission flush as well as a replacement of transmission fluid. The mechanic will also check for any leaks at this time.
* Cooling system flush: The cooling system is flushed out with detergent and replaced with new quality coolant. In addition, a conditioner and a ph balancer will be added to the new coolant. During the cooling system check up, there will be an inspection of any possible leaks.
* Ignition tune-up: This tune-up consists of diagnostic checks on the computer system as well as the emissions. The mechanic will also perform an injection system service at this time.
Furthermore, the mechanic will also go through and check all things that would be checked on a normal 15,000 mile service, as well as any other routine monthly or quarterly services.
* Check all fluid levels.
* Perform a brake inspection, specifically the rotors and brake pads.
* Inspect the suspension and steering.
* Perform a tire rotation, tire balance, wheel alignment, inspect the wear and tread on the tires, check the tire pressure and repack the wheel bearings.
* If you have not had your most recent oil change, they will do that as well, and replace both your oil and air filters.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Auto safety questions: how seatbelts work
Find out how safety belts work to save your live while you are riding in a vehicle and how to use them properly to ensure a safe trip.
A "seatbelt" is a strong mesh lap belt that has a shoulder belt connected to it. The seatbelt and the shoulder belt are securely attached to the frame of the auto.
Basically, to make a seatbelt work properly, you should sit in an upright position on the seat of the auto. Reach up and pull the shoulder/seatbelt from its retracting holder, then pull it out and around your body. Insert the tab on the latch plate into the buckle until you hear it make a clicking sound. Then, adjust the seatbelt so that it fits low around your hips. The shoulder belt should cross your shoulder, collar bone and chest. In order for these safety devices to work properly, both the seatbelt and the shoulder belt should fit snugly, but not be tight or uncomfortable. When you are buckled in, you should be able to move forward slightly.
In case of a auto accident, a seatbelt is designed to perform two life-saving tasks. First, it restrains you in your seat so that you are not ejected from the auto. And second, a seatbelt helps to actually slow your body down in order to prevent injuries, or, at least lessen injuries so they are not as severe.
How does a seatbelt slow your body down during an auto accident? When you are riding in an auto, your body is, of course, traveling at the same rate of speed as the auto is traveling. But, if the auto should be stopped suddenly, as in hitting a stationary object such as a tree, your body does not stop too. Instead, it continues to keep moving at the same rate of speed it was moving. This is caused by "inertia." Inertia is a term used in Physics that can be defined as "the tendency of an object to maintain its rate of motion until it is acted upon by an external force." In other words, your body continues to move until a stationary object inside the auto stops it. Unfortunately, if you are not wearing a seat belt, the object might well be a steering wheel, dashboard, or the auto's windshield. If, however, you have the protection of a seatbelt, it is designed to tightens up and spread out the force of the stop over a wide portion of your body. Specifically, your shoulder, rib cage, pelvis, collar bone, hips, and other strong, bony parts, if the seat belt is worn properly.
According to the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration, (NHTSA), wearing a seatbelt saves more than ten thousand lives in the United States alone each and every year. Unfortunately, on the flip side, the administration also estimates that seatbelts could have saved nearly as many crash victims, had they been wearing seatbelts. The NHTSA also estimates that wearing a seatbelt while riding in the front seat of an auto can reduce the risk of being fatally injured by approximately fifty percent.
The only way that seatbelts can do their jobs is if you wear them each and everytime that you get into an auto. You need to wear a seatbelt even if you're going on a quick drive to the market, or to the school to pick up your kids, for example. Because, according to statistics, most auto accidents happen within twenty-five miles of your home.
Emergencies, repairs, and safety: supplies to keep in the car
Before heading out on any major road trip, stock your car with a few essential items that can help to protect you when needed.
The next time you plan a road trip, whether for business or pleasure, pack a few basic items in the car in addition to luggage. You never know when the car will break down or roads will become impassable due to weather or an accident, so prepare for unexpected contingencies like these.
The time of year, the regional climate, and the length of your trip will impact the things you take with you. Of course, if your vehicle breaks down, you can always call a towing service approved by your insurer or you can contact the American Automobile Association if you are a member, and hopefully you are. But even if your vehicle is new and is covered by a comprehensive repair policy, it is a good idea to carry along a few basic things in case you meet with the unexpected. In general, here are suggestions for must-have extras:
2. Emergency flares or banner. Even the newest of vehicles have been known to break down under mysterious circumstances. While the repair may be paid for under your warranty, that's not much help when you need to get the car off the road and into a service dealer. Pack two or more emergency flares that can be placed at either end of your vehicle, even in daylight, to warn other travelers of your plight so they avoid hitting your car. A white banner that can be attached to the top of your vehicle or draped from a window may serve the same purpose.
3. Water and food. Driving for hours at a time may mean that someone is bound to get thirsty. While it's a good idea to stop and stretch the legs, sometimes you want to keep driving. Include a few bottled beverages or a thermos to take the edge off your thirst. Do the same to stave off hunger pangs between meals. Granola bars, easy-to-handle fruits like grapes or apples, and a few carrot sticks or cookies will let you keep driving without suffering from hunger or spending a small fortune at the next convenience store. If you happen to get stranded, you'll be especially grateful that you brought along something to nibble on.
4. A Blanket. During hot or cold weather, chances are someone in the car is going to feel uncomfortable. With the air conditioner cranked up, pass the blanket to someone whose legs or arms feel the chill. Or if you drive at night or early morning, a cuddly blanket can help passengers doze off until it's time for a rest stop. Blankets may come in handy during a car accident if someone goes into shock. Hopefully this won't be your family, but if you come upon an accident scene, you'll be able to offer help.
5. Tire-changing and battery-jumping tools. A flat tire can happen to any vehicle, new or old. Most cars are equipped with a jack and a spare tire, but some folks remove them to make room for other things. Be sure to bring yours along. Even if your battery or vehicle is new, you should throw battery cables into the trunk in case you pass another car in distress. While you may not want to stop for just anyone, in certain seemingly safe situations you can offer your cables to a person whose battery needs to be jumped.
These are just some of the basics to add to your packing list. Don't forget a cell phone for emergencies or a phone card so long-distance calls won't cost as much. A container for those with car sickness may be useful, along with paper towels or baby wipes. Think of other things that your passengers may need before setting out, keeping in mind that helpful items like these tend to cost more when you buy them far from home.
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
How to get better gas mileage
At the current high price of gas we need to get the best fuel mileage that the cars are made to get. There are many reasons why a car gets bad gas mileage. One might be the general operation of your vehicle. You need to keep on file the date for the last time you had a tune-up. If your spark plugs are worn out or worn down, this will allow more gas to get into your system. Some car owners regap these, but it is much better to replace them. And if your engine has not been tuned up in a while, the spark plug wire might be bad and the engine might not be running on all cylinders. Both can cause bad gas mileage.
When your car is getting bad gas mileage, it usually runs rough or misfires. But in some cases it could be due to improper air pressure in your tires. In the winter, check your tire pressure once a month. Another cause for bad gas mileage is the fuel filter. Most of the time if it is your fuel filter, your car won’t have good pick-up and will not run smoothly. Unless you work on cars much, you should have a mechanic check this. If your car is a little older, you might want to go to the auto store and buy a fuel system cleaner. Ask someone that work there which one is best for your make of car. And remember, you get what you pay for. I know people that drive hundreds of miles a week, and at every oil change they have the cleaner added. Some have accumulated over 150,000 miles on the vehicle. So paying ten or fifteen dollars more every three months can be worth it. Make sure you don’t have a bad exhaust system, because this will hurt your performance and your gas mileage.
Additional areas to keep an eye on include air filters, tire pressure, and distributed weight in the trunk. Make sure that your car timing is right, also. There are even more reasons you might be getting poor gas mileage, but these are the easier ones to check. If your car continues to demand costly fuel fill-ups more rapidly than you think is normal, have the vehicle checked out by an expert.
Auto how to: cleaning your car's interior
If you plan on cleaning your car's interior, here are a few reminders of some areas that may need attention. Since the car becomes a second home for many of us, keep it clean and fresh-smelling for those many hours on the road.
2. Use a whisk broom to sweep out the front and back seats. Start with the seats and progress to the floors. Push the seat levers to move the front seats back so that you will have better access to debris stuck in those areas. Vacuum the seats, including the back part and head rests. Don't forget the sides and underneath, if possible. Then vacuum the floors. Use an attachable arm to reach far under the seats and into the smallest and furthest corners.
3. Run a bucket of hot, soapy water. Dip a clean wash cloth into the water and wring out the extra moisture. Be sure it's not so soapy that it will leave a sticky residue. If it is, pour out part of the bucket's soapy water and add more hot water to dilute the soapy effect. Wring your cloth once more. Wipe the dashboard, steering wheel, console, and all interior trim, rinsing the cloth as soon as it becomes dusty or grimy. Wipe out the vents, the inside door panels, and the roof section, including the handles for clothes hangers as well as the seat belts throughout the vehicle.
4. Use a fresh cloth and clear water or window washing solution to clean the car's interior windows and mirrors. Wipe them clean and rinse if there is a residue. Dry them with a paper towel or cloth towel. Use a cotton swab to clean crevices, nooks, rims, and ledges inside the car, especially on the dashboard or near the speakers.
5. Wash the baby's car seat and the floor mats separately. Let them air dry to eliminate germs and avoid mold or mildew that can result from placing them inside the vehicle too soon. Replace any needed items in the car, such as the umbrella under a seat or bottled water in a storage area. Check for missed areas and catch these with a newly-rinsed cloth, such as door locks, turn signals, and spring coils under the front seats.
Keep the car windows down or the doors open as you work to air out the vehicle. You may want to hang a deodorizer on the rearview mirror post. Vacuum the trunk and replace the items that were removed. When finished, your car should feel and smell fresh and clean!
Auto improvement: how to install car speakers
The tools necessary for this project will depend on the complexity of the installation. It could be as simple as a couple of screwdrivers, but you will most likely need a wire stripper and electrical tape. Other tools that could be useful, depending on your installation, are a soldering iron, Allen or Torx wrenches, an offset screwdriver set, and a door panel tool.
Some car speakers are in more inaccessible places, so if you're having trouble getting to the speakers to measure them, then you might want to call a professional. One great resource is Crutchfield, and the primary advantage to using them is that they have online and print-based guides that help you look up your vehicle. For almost any vehicle, their guide will tell you what size your car speakers are and which of their speakers will be easy replacements. Better yet, if you order from Crutchfield, they include an easy to follow installation guide, and if any adaptor brackets or wiring harnesses are needed, they supply those for free, too.
If you don't have the money to replace all your speakers, you can either replace the pair of speakers that sound the worst or replace the biggest set of speakers. Replacing the largest set of speakers will be somewhat more expensive than replacing a smaller set of speakers, but the results are likely to sound far better. For example, say all four of your speakers are blown, distorting badly on bass notes. You measure them and find that you have 4 inch front speakers and 6 x 9 rear speakers. Unless you pay top dollar for really great 4 inch speakers, it isn’t likely that you’ll hear too great of an improvement by replacing them. However, there are plenty of inexpensive, high-quality 6 x 9 speakers on the market, and replacing that set will yield much better-sounding results.
The next decision is which speakers to buy. The easiest method is to replace a pair of speakers with a pair that is an identical size. However, sometimes the magnet on the back of the speaker may be too much bigger than the old speaker, or perhaps part of the front of the speaker sticks out too far for the old speaker hole. If you’re buying speakers from a local store, it’s helpful to measure all the speaker and hole dimensions and take the measurements with you to buy the new set.
Another buying decision is whether you want regular replacement speakers or "component" speakers. Component speakers usually sound better than regular speakers, but they are typically more expensive and almost always more complicated to install. Component speakers have separate speaker cones for the tweeter, midrange, and bass, while regular car speakers combine them. Most component speaker installations involve a lot of custom work, so we’ll assume you’re replacing your car’s speakers with regular, identically-sized speakers.
With your new speakers in hand, the first step of the installation process is removing the old speakers. Hopefully, this will be as easy as unscrewing four screws. If you meet difficulties at this step, here are some hints:
If the screws don’t have regular or Phillips heads, but they have small hexagonal or pointed star-shaped holes instead, then you need either an Allen wrench (fits hexagonal hole) or a Torx-screwdriver (fits star-shaped hole). Allen and Torx wrenches usually come in sets, so make an approximate measurement before going to the store.
If the screws are in a difficult place to reach, such as close to the windshield, then you may need a stubby screwdriver or an offset screwdriver. An offset screwdriver is shaped like a "Z."
If you have to remove door panels to reach the speakers, the installation becomes more difficult, but it can still be done. If you have manual (non-electric) window cranks, it’s helpful to have a door panel tool. This is a flat piece of metal about three inches wide with a wide slot in the middle that goes around your manual window crank to help remove it. After you remove the window crank, remove any screws around the door handle or anywhere else. The door panel usually has plastic friction fittings holding it in place. The door panel tool has an L-shaped section on the handle that is handy for prying the door panel loose from the metal door. Once the door panel is removed, the speaker should be unscrewed and removed.
Once the old speakers are removed, their wires should be disconnected. Some speakers have a plastic clip several inches away from the speaker connecting the speaker wires with the longer wires that run to the stereo deck. If you don’t see a plastic clip, pull or cut the speaker wires away from the old speakers. There are two wires for each speaker, and they should be separated close to the speaker. One wire is probably red (positive), and the other is usually red with a black stripe (negative). If they are not marked, then look at the old speaker terminals for the (+) and (-) that denotes positive and negative, then mark the wires accordingly.
After the old speakers are removed and their wires disconnected from the car's wiring, you should install the new speakers. Hopefully the replacement speakers will be an exact fit, and you can simply place them in the holes and screw them in. If they don't fit exactly, you may need to use a utility knife or a coping saw to enlarge the holes. If the holes are too big, you can fill in the extra room with cardboard or thin plywood cut to fit.
The final step is to connect the new speakers to the car's speaker wires. If you bought your speakers from a company such as Crutchfield, then there is probably a free wiring harness included that you can simply plug into the old wiring harness. If there wasn't a wiring harness, or you don't have a connecting harness with your new speakers, it's still easy to connect the speakers. Connect the positive and negative wires to the proper (+) and (-) speaker terminals. If you have a soldering iron, you can solder the car speaker wires directly to the new speaker terminals. An easier method, though it's less secure, is to strip back an inch or so of the car speaker wires, wrap them around the appropriate speaker terminals, and then wrap the connections with electrical tape.
Now the new speakers should be ready to play. If they don't work, try reversing the polarity on the speaker wire connections. Also, make sure the car stereo has the balance correctly adjusted. If you're only replacing one set of speakers and the other set is blown, you can always turn the balance to play only the new speakers.
Truck air horn laws
According to federal law, a truck air horn, then, ranges approximately between 80-90 decibels, whether moving or stationary.
Constant exposure to noise of 90 decibels, or 90 dbA, can lead to deafness. With this fact in mind, the United States’ government has set noise abatement standards for aircraft and airports, interstate motor carriers and railroads, workplace activities, motorcycles and mopeds, portable air compressors, federally assisted housing projects and medium and heavy-duty trucks. Under the new federal law, enacted in April, 2000, funding to such noise abatement projects was increased to $207 million annually.
The Environmental Protection Agency
Prior to 1983, the EPS controlled noise policy. Since then the primary responsibility for noise control has shifted to the various states and the municipalities located within them. Current truck air horn laws are now mainly legislated and enforced by each state and the cities within, even though past EPA regulations still remain in effect.
Decibels
Sound is measured in decibels or dbA. Levels of 65 dbA are annoying to most people. The Noise Control Act of 1972 required the EPA to establish noise control standards for motor carriers in interstate commerce. The Federal Highway Administration was to enforce these laws. All commercial vehicles over 10,000 pounds are bound by two types of standards, one for highway travel and one when remaining stationary. Horns or sirens operated while the commercial vehicle is moving are limited to a range between 81-93 dbA. Those operated while the commercial vehicle is stationary are limited to a range between 83-91 dbA. These standards apply under any circumstance – time, road condition, vehicle load, acceleration or deceleration.
As mentioned earlier, a rate of 90 dbA can lead to deafness if an individual is constantly exposed to it. A truck air horn, then, ranges approximately between 80-90 dbA, whether moving or stationary. Consulting the Congressional Research Service Report on Noise Abatement and Control, as it was presented to the House and Senate members, 80 dbA is the sound level of the average city traffic, your garbage disposal or an alarm clock ringing two feet away. However, 90dbA is the sound of subway traffic, truck traffic or your lawn mower: Constant exposure to these sounds can lead to hearing loss.
Fortunately, a truck air horn is used intermittently, and most of us have never nor will ever be exposed to its sound on a continuous basis.
The State and Local Role in Air Horn Noise Abatement
The federal government is limited to regulating the air horn or siren of an interstate vehicle. State and local governments determine the extent of dbA on the air horns and sirens of all other vehicles. Regulations can vary widely.
The State of California, for example, does not establish any standards to abate noise. They do, however, provide some models for local municipalities to use in establishing their own laws.
You must obey the interstate laws for truck air horn usage if your vehicle is over 10,000 pounds, otherwise you must consult your state laws. Remember, municipalities have laws governing truck air horns, and these can vary from municipality to municipality within your own state.
Automotive maintenance: 30,000 mile maintenance - what to expect
Your automobile is ready for its 30,000 mile maintenance service. Here is what you should expect.
One of the easiest things you can do to prolong the life of your car is to continually maintain it. This is more than making sure the registration sticker is always updated and ensuring you have the best available car insurance. Your car is a machine with tons of working parts that can quickly and easily stop working if they are not cared for. When your car reaches 30,000 miles, you will want to take it in for its 30,000 mile routine maintenance. Here is what you should expect at that checkup.
* Automatic transmission service: This will be a drain and flush of your transmission oil, a replacement of your transmission filter and a refill of the correct transmission fluid. They will also check for any potential leaks.
* Cooling system flush: Your cooling system will be flushed with detergent to clean out your system and then the fluid will be replaced with coolant. A pressure test will also be run to check for potential leaks and a conditioner and ph balancer will be added to the coolant.
* Electronic ignition general tune-up: During the tune-up, the mechanic will run computer checks and check the emissions. If needed, the spark plugs will be replaced and the car will be given an injection system service.
* Fluid levels: The mechanic will also check all fluid levels and do a general under-car condition inspection.
* Brakes: The brake pads will be checked to see if they are still within the correct thickness or if they have been worn down. If necessary, the brake pads may need to be replaced and the rotor machined.
* Steering and suspension: Both of these systems will be checked.
* Tires and wheels: Your wheel alignment will be checked, and, if necessary, they will be aligned to their proper specifications. The tires will be balanced and rotated (if necessary) and the tread on the tire will be checked for their thickness as well as any unusual tread wear. The wheel bearings will be repacked. The tires will also be checked for the correct tire pressure.
* Filters: The air and fuel filters will be replaced.
* Oil: If necessary, your car will also receive an oil change. It is vital that you change your car’s oil at least every 3,000 miles or 3 months (whichever comes first). It is okay to let this go to 5,000 miles, but, under no condition, should you let 7,500 miles pass before getting an oil change. They will also lubricate the chassis.
* Miscellaneous: The mechanic may check all of the lights (brake lights and headlights), check the condition of the coolant hoses, check the belts for tension as well as any wear, check the condition of the windshield wipers, test the charge of the battery and inspect for any fluid leaks.
There is no hard number for how much your 30,000 mile routine maintenance check will cost, since that all depends on what type of car or truck you have and where you decide to take your car for this service.
Buying a car: what to do before going to the dealership
Looking into buying or leasing a new or used car in the near future? Here are some things you should research before setting foot on the dealer's lot.
How many times have you walked onto a dealership’s lot and left with a new car or got very close to leaving with a new car? With dealerships offering great incentives like 0% financing, no monthly payments for a year or cash back allowances, it is too easy to get involved in a new or used car that you had no intention of buying or leasing when you first walked into the lot. Sure, you may tell yourself that you will simply look around, but, unless you are made of nerves and a will of steel, you will at least end up in the financial office at one point in your visit. Before walking onto any car dealership lot, you will need to do a little of your own research so that you can make a rational and logical decision based on facts as opposed to emotion and whim.
You must have a solid idea of what type of car or SUV or truck you are looking for. If you know you want a certain sized car, research the different models and manufacturers that you are interested in. You will also want to research other manufacturer’s sites to get a good comparison of features and styles. Make a list of the specific features you want (or need) and those features that you can certainly live without and then stick with that list. For example, you may know that you want a 4-cylinder engine, power locks and windows and a decent sound system. However, when you walk onto a lot, the salesman will whisk you straight over to the higher-end models that have a V6 engine, sun roofs, moon roofs, leather seats and the advanced sound systems. Bring this list with you and do not let them steer you to a model that is more expensive. Show them the list and let them know exactly what you want.
There are many sites where you can check an automobile’s safety rating. You may want a car that looks really sharp, but it may have a sub par safety rating; this is not a car you will want to invest in. Look at models similar to the one you have your eye on. You may find that another manufacturer has a car that is better overall in safety features and ratings.
Go online and find out what the value of the specific automobile you are looking into purchasing is worth. You will be able to enter in different specifications of the car you are seeking and find out the value of the car you desire. Now, when you walk onto the dealer’s lot you have some leverage to haggle. Having this knowledge will give you insight into what kind of deal you are really getting yourself into.
When buying a car, a dealership will automatically try to get you financing with their manufacturer’s finance company. Before even walking onto a lot, research other options for financing, including your own bank. You may find you can get pre-approved for a car loan and, if it’s better than the deal they are offering at the dealership, you will be much better off.
Finally, when making a decision about where to purchase your automobile, look around at the different dealerships. Different dealerships will offer different deals. Do not feel bad for finding out what kind of deal a salesman is willing to give and then taking it to another dealership to see if they can do better. After all, you are the one who is going to end up paying for the vehicle, so you always need to look out for your best interests.
