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Is it safe to buy a rental car?

When you are considering buying a used vehicle, it is important to cover all of your bases and take all options into consideration. Most people don't even think about the buy a rental car option. It is an option with many pros and cons and it is worth it to factor them into your used car purchase decision.

Rental car purchase pros

First things first, as a used buyer you know where this car is coming from. Chances are the car has been kept clean and well maintained during its life as a rental. Any rental service that sells their cars should be able to offer you maintenance records to back that up. In fact it should be insisted upon to ensure that the car has been properly cared for. Pricing is another attractive factor if you want to purchase a rental car. Many of the cars rental agencies will offer for sale are less than a year old and have less than 25,000 miles on them. Do not be suspect when you see a newer model for sale, it does not necessarily indicate that the vehicle is problematic. Rental companies are able to purchase their vehicle at the bare minimum fleet pricing, enabling them to re-sell at very competitive prices. Another pro is the possibility of a warranty still intact with a purchase through a rental car company. Because they generally sell them within a year of purchase and at a reasonable mileage, there is a good chance that there will still be some time left on the manufacturers warranty. Giving the new owner a little peace of mind, especially when you consider the cons of purchasing a rental car.

Rental car purchase cons

Anyone who has rented a car has probably heard this joke, "What's the difference between a rental car and a 4X4? A rental car can go anywhere!" It's funny when you rent a car, but when you are looking to buy a rental car suddenly it's not so funny anymore. This being the biggest con of them all, people are hard on rental cars. The rental companies have no idea what the car actually endures while in the care of the individuals it rents to. Of course they will assure you that the car was not mistreated, but again, anyone who has rented a car knows the kind of abuse they can take.Generally the rental agencies will inspect the car upon its return to their lot to ensure that there has been no damage. However what is reported at that point is largely cosmetic, and while aesthetics are important, it's what's inside that really counts. If you are considering purchasing a rental car, be sure to take it to an outside, unaffiliated mechanic for a through inspection to ensure that the vehicle has not suffered mechanically at the hands of an thoughtless renter.As far as cons go, the vast unknown is really the one to worry about. While cosmetic issues are important, mechanical soundness is truly the bottom line with any used car purchase.

Bottom line a good option

When purchasing a used vehicle, the rental agencies offer a viable option for purchase. Contrary to popular belief previous rental cars can be a great investment for anyone looking for a suitable used vehicle. Having access to maintenance records is a huge plus, and all things considered every vehicle they buy is the rental companies bread and butter. It is good business sense for them to keep them in tip top working order.


About the Author: My name is Paige Filler and I'm a creative writer with a love of all things that go vroom. I do my homework to bring thought and innovation into everything I write about the auto industry. You can find more of my stuff at Cash4UsedCars

Thanks Article Source: http://cararticles.com

Common mistakes people make when buying a car at a dealership

No one ever said buying a car is easy. However, it doesn't have to be hard if you do a little homework first. There is tons of information about how to buy a car from a dealership, but here we thought we'd try a different tactic. Here we will show you some of the common mistakes people make at dealerships and how to avoid them.



Common mistakes

We may not cover them all, but here are some of the most common mistakes that will probably cost you money.


Falling in love

Lets face it, emotion has no place in any business transaction. Unfortunately car shopping and purchasing can easily be guided by emotions.

I'm not singling women out, because I am one, but the fact remains we tend to be the more emotionally driven gender. I must confess that emotion played a huge part in my last vehicle purchase.

Needless to say that now, as I tear up every time I have to fill my gas tank, I wish I had purchased with my head instead of my heart.

Keep your emotions in check. Be sure to react to fact rather than feeling. It is important to love what you drive. Like with people, superficial feelings don't last but that uncomfortable drivers seat, or the squeaky sound under the hood will.


Not planning ahead

This is self explanatory. Research is king folks, the more you do the more you know, and knowledge is power. Car salesmen pressure will be easier to resist if you know your product.


Not taking a drive

Truly the most important part of the process is a test drive. Anyone who skips this vital step should not have the luxury of complaining when the vehicle they purchase doesn't suit them.


Focusing on monthly payments

One of the oldest gimmicks in any sales mans repertoire is selling the package (full of stuff you don't need) by breaking it down into monthly payments. It seems like they are being helpful when they ask you how much you can afford a month, however this is all part of their selling process.

Frankly waiting until you hit a dealership to consider your financing options is like showing up for a midterm unprepared. Have a ceiling price in your head, and make sure you have a calculated feel for the associated monthly payments.

If you can, apply for bank funding before you begin to shop. This will not only get you the best interest rate, but will also allow you to shop independent of dealership finance departments.


Good and bad options

No car dealership purchase would be complete without the salesmen pushing extras and options. Some of which are worth it, some not. Things such as rustproofing, stain resistant treatments for fabrics, and paint clear coats are all extras that carry a hefty price tag and no real economical value.

Safety features are a different story and clearly worth the money. Options like side airbags, anti-lock brake system (ABS), and electronic stability control (ESC) could potentially be worth all the money in the world.


Use your salesman

The person trying to sell you a car doesn't have to be your enemy, keeping your emotions out of the equation will help to ensure a smoother purchase. Your salesman is a wealth of information about the brand, the model, not to mention the options that you do want.

Ask questions, gather information from all possible sources. Chances are the salesman has driven every car on the lot multiple times. Ask their opinion, ask why, knowing what you want will help you zero in on important information that could influence your purchase.


About the Author: My name is Paige Filler and I'm a creative writer with a love of all things that go vroom. I do my homework to bring thought and innovation into everything I write about the auto industry. You can find more of my stuff at Cash4UsedCars.com

Thanks Article Source: http://cararticles.com

How to store your motorcycle during winter

This article gives step-by-step instructions on how to put your motorcycle up for the season.

Motorcycling isn’t a winter activity. Yes, there are the brave and foolhardy who try riding through the winter in places like Maine or Alaska, but for most of us winter means an end to our motorcycling season.

This article will give you step-by-step instructions on how to put your motorcycle up for the season. Storing your bike improperly could have disastrous effect, especially for those who live in areas with harsh environmental changes. Remember to perform a thorough safety check at the beginning of every season to ensure you bike has not sustained damage through the winter. Take special note of your tires, which may have become dry rotted depending on the care you took when you put your machine into storage.

First, clean and wax your machine. Inspect your bike for any loose nuts or bolts as you wash it and replace any parts that seem damaged. Use a good quality hand wax to help cut down on damage that might occur to your bike due to atmospheric changes. Use a leather cleaner / preserved on your seat and rubber hoses, but do not apply any to the tires.

Clean and lube or wax your chain, making sure to de-gunk it where it has collected road debris throughout your season. Be sure to apply wax or lube to your entire chain. Lube and wax act as a water repellent and help protect your chain through damp and cold weather. For this same reason it’s a good idea to lube all pivots and apply a thin coat of oil or WD40 on chrome to prevent moisture from eating away at your bike’s precious metals and use a quality lubricate on your cables and switchgears.

Put your bike on its center stand to get as much weight as possible off your tires. Place blocks of wood between your tire and the ground, especially if your machine is being stored out-of-doors. You may also want to spray your fork lowers with WD40 or Marvel Mystery Oil to help prevent rot on your fork seals.

It’s a good idea to replace your oil and filter when you put your bike up, since most oils have a shelf life. Keep in mind that you will be changing your oil again in the early spring, so it’s not necessary to use the most costly oil available.

Top off your gas tank and turn your petcock in the off position. Use a gas stabilizer in your tank and drain your carburetors of any gas that might be in the bowl. Usually there are Philip head screws at the bottom of your bowl with a nipple that has a hose attached to it. If for some reason you cannot reach the screws, run your bike with the petcock off until you use up all the gas in the carburetors.

Plug your exhaust to discourage vermin from nesting in them through the winter and take care to make sure there are no holes through which mice and other critters can burrow their way into your air box and damage your seat.

Remove the spark plugs and fill each cylinder with a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil or two-stroke oil. Screw the plugs back in hand tight and don’t attach your plug wires to remind you to change the plugs first thing in the spring. You may want to kick the bike over with the kill switch engaged to spread the oil throughout the cylinders.

Remove your battery to store in a warm climate or use a tender to keep a trickle charge on it throughout the season. Keep an eye on the electrode levels in each battery cell and fill them if they grow low.

Use a breathable cover even if you store your bike in your garage or basement. Try to operate your controls throughout the winter and move your back wheel so that weight settles on a different spot while the bike is on its center stand. Avoid storing your motorcycle near items that use high levels of electricity like a hot water heater or dryer--the ozone created will dry-rot tires more quickly.

Winter is the best time to catch up on routine maintenance on your machine or perform upgrades. Working on your bike through the winter will help you notice any problems that might develop, like mice making a home out of your air filter, and will help you deal with the seasonal disaffected syndrome that hits every biker who has to go without their machine.

Auto repair: how to safely raise your car at home

Raising your auto might be mandatory to repair it underneath, but, if you do it wrong, it can prove to be deadly. Find out how to safely raise your car with these tips and instructions.

Being a do it yourselfer means that sometimes you'll need to buy special tools or equipment to work on a project with. Cheap products have a reputation of malfunctioning easily and often. Afterall, like the saying goes, "You get what you pay for." So, for your safety's sake, as well as the sake of your wallet, you should buy the best tools and equipment you can afford. Especially when it comes to raising and repairing your auto!

First off, if you need to raise your auto up at home to change the brake pads, replace the muffler, or perform some engine work, then you'll need to use a jack. For do it yourselfers who don't have access to a garage that has a lift in it, then an auto jack is the next best answer. Auto jacks are a common piece of equipment that come in the trunk or storage unit of all autos, trucks, vans, and SUV's. If you repair autos on a regular basis, though, you should invest in a good quality jack to use. If you're not sure how to use one, you should consult the manufacturer's directions. There are different types of jacks, and different ways to properly use them.

Before you even attempt to use a jack, you'll need to park the auto on a hard flat piece of ground.
Shut off the engine and make sure the gear shift is in the "Park" position if the transmission is an automatic type. Otherwise, for an auto that has a manual transmission, move the shifter to "First" gear and engage the parking brake.

Then, use store bought steel blocks, concrete blocks, bricks, or large, square chunks of wood to block either the front or the back wheels. If you're going to raise the front end of the auto with a jack, then block the back tires securely. And, if you're going to raise the back end up, then block the front tires securely. This will help to prevent the auto from rolling either frontwards or backwards while you're working underneath it.

Now, place the jack underneath the auto in the appropriate place as instructed by the manufacturer. This place might be in a slot on the bumper, against the frame of the auto, et cetera. Once you have the jack securely in place, slowly raise the auto up. When the auto is at the height you need it to be, place a pair of jack stands underneath the auto. The stands should be located in close proximity to the jack. Make sure they are raised up so they'll hold the auto in place at the right height. Then, secure them into place and reverse the jack. Then, carefully begin to lower the jack. As you're lowering it, watch to make sure that the stands are going to hold the auto securely. If you see either one wavering or wobbling, stop lowering the auto immediately. Reposition one or both of the stands and repeat this process until you have lowered and removed the jack from underneath the auto.

Remember: the auto can slide off of the jack stands at anytime. While you're working on your auto, make sure that you don't move it too much. And, when you're done with your repair, replace the jack underneath, remove the jack stands, then lower the auto safely to the ground again.

Ebay tips: buying cars in auctions

Ebay has become THE place to buy and sell almost anything - but what about buying a car? Use these tips and be safe!

Online auctions have become the new way of purchasing almost anything you need, from thimbles to comics to lunchboxes. But what should you consider when purchasing a car through eBay? A few simple tips can make your experience a good one and your investment a sound one.

Many people start their search for a new or used car by limiting their search to vehicles within their State or local area. Most auctions will specify that the new owner must pick up the vehicle from the auction seller's place of residence or store. This could end up making that great sale possibly not much of one if you need to pay for an airline ticket across the country to pick up the car and drive it back, to say nothing of the paperwork involved in transferring the ownership with two or more States involved. The search function in your eBay account can help to limit your choices and save yourself a lot of effort. You'd be surprised at how many local auctions you can find that you would probably never see in your daily paper!

The first and most important information you need to look at is the amount of feedback about the seller. You can see at a single glance if the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, neutral or negative. Take into account that while a sale may have been legitimate and without problems from the auction site's point of view, the seller may have become disgruntled for reasons outside the transaction and left bad feedback in order to erode the seller's reputation. Usually the seller has an opportunity to respond to any negative feedback, but you should take into account just plain old bad feelings possibly accounting for some negative or neutral ratings.

Feel free to contact other customers who have left feedback (be it negative, positive, or neutral) and ask what their experience was like with the seller - did he/she misrepresent the car in any way? Was the car's history accurate and reliable? Were there any problems in transferring ownership or mechanical surprises soon after the purchase? Most customers will respond to your queries, wanting to help or warn other potential buyers about this particular seller.

If you can visit the car itself before placing a bid, do so. Photographs are fine and the buyer may have a slew of them up on eBay, but the only way you can truly assess the condition of the car is to arrive at the seller's lot and kick the tires, as the saying goes. If you can't get to the site itself consider calling up a friend or relative and asking him/her to go and look the car over. If the buyer refuses to allow this, you may wish to reconsider placing a bid for this car at this time. Unfortunately there are always criminals placing imaginary items online for sale, disappearing with the money and never delivering a product. This is why checking feedback is one of the most important things you can do before placing a bid!

So you've seen the car (or sent a friend), you're convinced the car is a good deal and a great buy and you've checked out the seller and know the sale is as legal as it can be. Now, let's bid!

One of the oldest tricks on eBay is the sniper - he/she is a buyer who waits until literally the last few seconds to place a bid, usually snagging the item for sale out from under your nose. In order to avoid being sniped out of your car, be sure to monitor your auction for the last ten minutes at least, and be prepared to enter a counterbid as quickly and as efficiently as possible. Unfortunately this is where a slow modem can make the difference between winning and losing. A cable modem or another fast communication system is almost a necessity when dealing with online auctions.

Remember that placing a bid on eBay is a legal commitment to purchase that item. While you will have the option to retract your bid if you make a mistake, eBay will frown on you if you make it a habit. As well, many sellers will either refuse to sell to you or complain to eBay, possibly leading to your membership being voided. Don't bid if you're not serious about buying it and don't bid what you can't afford!

So you've placed your bid and you’ve won your dream car! Now what do you do? Well, the first thing NOT to do is dash to the bank and withdraw your cash in small bills, stuffing it into a brown paper bag to deliver it to the seller.

First contact the seller through email and ask that either certified check or money order be used to make the exchange. Personal checks are fine if the buyer is prepared to take the risk of it bouncing, but most transactions should be done in a way that produces paperwork. This protects both you and the seller in case either of you have any disputes in the future regarding the amount exchanged or the ownership of the vehicle in question.

When you arrive at the seller's lot or house to pick up the car, make sure to get ALL of the proper documentation you will need to drive the car home. The State Trooper who stops you on the highway ten miles from your house may not know much about eBay, but he will know the law as it pertains to driving a car without insurance or the proper ownership papers. Remember, buying a car online is the same as if you went down to the local lot and bought it there - the documentation needs to meet the legal requirements of your state for the exchange of the car from one person to another.

Finally, if you are happy with the car and the transaction, please consider leaving positive feedback for the seller. He/she's only reputation on eBay is dependent on the opinions of others, and you will be influencing others who might be considering purchasing their next vehicle from this person. You don't have to leave a personal essay, but feel free to point out the best points about your purchase and why you would recommend this seller to others.

Purchasing a car on eBay can be a daunting experience, but knowing what to look for and what to do before placing a bid can lead to a rewarding and fun exchange. Now instead of being limited to the local papers and the used-car lots you can search across the entire State and the country, if you wish, to find the car of your dreams!

How to research a car lease

Learn how to research a car lease. Knowing if leasing is right for you will save you time and money.

In order to research a car lease, you need to understand what leasing is and how it works. When you lease a car, you are paying for the use of it over a certain period of time. Of course, this sounds like renting, but the two are not the same. Leasing starts at a minimum of twenty-four months, whereas renting can be a minimum of one day.

When leasing a vehicle, you and the dealer come to an agreement on a purchase price just as you would if you were to buy the vehicle. Then, you sign a leasing contract, and the dealer sells the car to a leasing company at the price you have agreed upon. The dealer acts as the agent between you and the leasing company. So based on the agreed-upon price, the leasing company then leases the car to you. The negotiated price becomes very important as it determines your monthly payments.

When you sign a leasing contract, you are agreeing to make regular payments each month, insure the car, maintain the upkeep, and pay taxes and licensing fees. Also, you agree to keep the car typically twenty-four, thirty-six, or forty-eight months. When your lease expires, you return the car to the leasing company and either lease out a new car, buy out the car you were leasing, or walk away.

When researching a car lease, it is important you compare leasing to buying in order to figure out which method of financing is the right one for you. Leasing finances the use of the car, while buying finances the purchase. Each one has its pros and cons. Deciding which is best for you is dependent upon your own preference and personal situation.

If driving a new car every two to three years with no major repair risks and lower monthly payments is more important to you, then leasing may be your option. If ownership and long-term cost is more important, think toward the path of buying the car. The following are important benefits of car leasing.

1. Lower monthly payments

2. A new car every two to three years

3. Fewer maintenance problems with a new car

4. Little or no down-payment required

5. Sales tax spread out and paid with monthly payments in most states

6. No hassles with selling your car

Even if the benefits of leasing appeal to you, also consider the following questions. If you answer yes to any of them, it could be a sign that leasing may not be for you.

1. Is there a chance you’ll want to end your lease early? If so, there are always early termination fees, and you will also have to pay all remaining monthly payments that are due on your contract.

2. Do you drive over 15,000 miles per year? When leasing, you can only drive 10,000 to 15,000 miles per year depending on your contract.

3. Do you fail to treat your cars with good care? There are always fees you will pay for turning in a leased car that is damaged past its’ normal wear and tear.

4. Do you want to modify your car? You cannot customize or repaint your leased car.

5. Do you want to own your car? You won’t build up equity when leasing because you are not paying with a goal of ownership.

6. Do you have a credit score that is flawed? You must have a good credit history to receive a smaller or no down payment, along with a low monthly payment.

It is also a good idea to research the two types of leases. A closed-end lease is the most common lease and lets you return the car when the contract ends. This type of lease assumes you will drive the car 12,000 miles per year and not be abusive towards it. Thus, the residual value at the end of the lease will be predictable. Open-end leases are mostly for commercial business leasing. This means the lessee takes the financial risks and is responsible for paying the difference between estimated residual value and market value when the lease contract is up.

Knowing the benefits and disadvantages of leasing a car should help you decide if it is right for you. Understanding the leasing process will help you make an informed decision about whether it suits you better than buying.

Auto questions: how harley-davidson works

Long cylinders, a unique crankshaft and a large frame distinguish a Harley-Davidson from the essential motorcycle mechanism of engine, transmission and wheels.

he first Harley-Davidson was made more than a century ago. This motorcycle brand has grown well beyond its tangible dimensions in to a symbol of a cult. Large numbers of people travel over long distances on their Harley-Davidsons for get-togethers on regular annual occasions. The sound of a Harley-Davidson engine running is distinctive and contributes in large measure to the culture that surrounds enthusiasts and proud owners.

The major part of a Harley-Davidson’s functioning is the same as with any other motorcycle. The basics of a motorcycle are an engine that generates power, a transmission that transfers the engine power to wheels for motion and a frame to hold the engine and to seat the driver and a rider.

A motorcycle engine has 2 cylinders in a V shape. Each cylinder has an exhaust. The transmission is through manual gears and uses a chain for a drive. Motorcycle engines do not have mufflers to reduce noise or catalytic converters to reduce emission. Power is transmitted from the engine to the back wheel. Disc brakes are mounted on the wheels. Suspension is provided for the front of the motorcycle. The frame includes handlebars and a light. A motorcycle has the essential structure of a bicycle with an engine to substitute pedals. The frame is much stronger since it must carry the engine transmission and fuel tank weight and the tires are wider to allow the vehicle to move at speed with safety.

A Harley-Davidson differs in physical features from other motorcycles in the length of its cylinders and the structure of the crankshaft. These design features give a Harley-Davidson high power at low speeds and its distinctive sound. Harley-Davidson has recently developed a new engine in which the 2 cylinders are set at a wider angle to each other. This new engine is water cooled as opposed to air-cooling conventionally used in motorcycles and has overhead camshafts. These features give the engine more power and a higher RPM capability. Harley-Davidsons are generally bigger and heavier than most other motorcycles. This new engine will add concrete evidence to the image that a Harley-Davidson conjures. However Harley-Davidson continues to set itself apart from its competitors by working to develop its intangible advantages more than introducing new models, as has been the norm in the automotive industry.

A Harley-Davidson is a sturdy, large and powerful motorcycle that is meant to be a treasured possession and a statement of values and style, rather than a simple means of transportation. However it does offer specific and concrete benefits of speed, power and comfortable rides over long distances. It is one of the most enduring and well-loved brands in any product category in the world. Many owners invest in adding custom features to their Harley-Davidsons. The exhaust system and the frame are common objects of adding a personal touch to a Harley-Davidson. Its large size lends itself to the use of imaginative color combinations to make a Harley-Davidson stand out in a crowd, even if among others of its kind.

Car audio and stereo: how to choose the best new head unit

Choosing the best aftermarket head unit to replace your factory stereo can be very confusing, but these tips can help you review your options.

Before you begin searching for the perfect stereo, make sure you know what you already have. If your factory head unit is about two inches tall and seven inches wide, it is single DIN size. Single DIN is the size that most head units come in. If your old head unit is not single DIN size, you will either have to purchase an adapter to fit a single DIN head unit or buy a head unit specially made to fit in the oversized slot. Take this into consideration when you are browsing for your new stereo.

The most obvious thing to look for is the functionality of the head unit. All units will contain a radio, but many people want to be able to play media. Ask yourself how you will listen to music. Will you need a CD player or a tape deck? Are you planning on adding satellite radio in the future? Will you ever listen to an MP3 CD? Do you need an auxiliary port to plug in external music sources? Decide what capabilities you absolutely need, and what you can do without. Now you should have a basic idea of what you are looking for.


Unless your system contains external amplifiers, the power of the internal amp is vital. Power is measured in terms of watts, and there are generally two power measurements for any head unit. The first measurement, peak watts, is insignificant. It is the second measurement, RMS watts, that will determine the actual power of your stereo. In most cases, the powerful head units will have cleaner and louder sound, but it is also important that the head unit does not produce more power than your speakers can handle. If you have any questions about this, be sure to ask around where you buy the unit, because blown speakers can get expensive.

Next, consider whether you plan on making future upgrades to your system in the future. If you plan on adding external amplifiers, try to find a head unit with pre-amp out jacks. These will make the connection much easier when the time comes. There are varying power levels for the pre-out jacks, ranging from 2-10 volts. Generally speaking, the higher the voltage the cleaner the sound will be, but don’t go overboard on 8 volt pre-outs if you do not plan on putting a high quality amp on the other end. Also, look at the number of pre-out jacks. Two jacks means you can amplify one set of speakers, four jacks can amplify all four speakers, and a fifth jack will allow the addition of a subwoofer. Again, be realistic; there is no point in paying for jacks that you will not use.

One area that you should not shy away from dropping cash on are the security features, especially if you live in an urban area. There are many different theft deterrent devices available, the most basic of which is the removable faceplate. This will allow you to take the faceplate with you when you leave the car, rendering the stereo useless to potential thieves. If you are prone to losing things, a better choice might be a stealth face, which simply turns into a black face when you turn off the car, giving the appearance that the stereo is non-functional. In high-theft areas, consider a stereo with a built in alarm that goes off when someone tries to remove the unit. Whatever you do, be sure your investment is protected.

Another thing to consider when choosing a head unit is the sound controls. Unless you have an external equalizer you will probably be using the built-in EQ settings. You will be better able to customize the sound of your stereo if you choose a unit with many equalizer bands. If simplicity is your thing, look for easy to use treble and bass controls. Also, if you listen to a lot of bass-heavy rap or rock, look for a bass boost function. Controlling the sound your stereo makes can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be.

Before you make the final decision on your new head unit, always remember to look at the controls. Are the buttons laid out in a logical way? It is important that you are able to find the controls without taking your eyes off the road. Be sure that the menus and settings are easy to find. Make sure that the buttons do not feel cheap and easily breakable. Finally, check out the looks of the unit. The display should be big and easy to read at a glance. Also, if you care about the fit and trim of your car, try to find a unit that will match the interior.

Go with the unit that feels right to you. This will be the piece of your stereo that you interact with on a daily basis. It needs to fit the specs you have decided upon, but ultimately picking the perfect head unit comes down to personal taste. If you have to sacrifice a bit of power to get a unit you really like, that’s fine. In the end you will be happier with your choice.

Car audio and speakers: how to install an amp

A basic guide to selecting and installing an amplifier for your car stereo.

Adding an amplifier to a preexisting head unit is probably your best bet to pump up the volume and clarity of your car’s sound system. You can install an amp whether your radio is old or new, and best of all: it is a relatively easy process.

Before you begin, check the back of your head unit for pre-amp outs. These are RCA stereo connections that should come in pairs. If you do not have pre-amp capability (no RCA out jacks), then make sure that the amp you choose is able to accept speaker, or line-level connections. In addition, make sure that the rated RMS power of the amp is less than or equal to the RMS power of the speakers you plan to connect it to. When you buy the amp, be sure to buy a power connection set and a patch cord to match—a salesperson should be able to help you with this.


Now that you have the amp, the first step is to choose a location inside your car to mount it. Typically, this means in the trunk, but it is possible to put it in the cabin if you have enough room. Be careful not to choose a location that will expose the amp or wires to direct heat, and be sure that the amp will not be covered by carpet. Your amp will get hot in the course of use, and it is essential that it has enough space for air to circulate over and around it.

Once the amp is secured in a good location, it is time to start wiring. Before you even think about where to run the wires, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. Speaking of the battery, this would be a good time to take out the power connection kit and connect the long, (in most cases) red wire to the positive terminal of your battery. If you do not see an easy way to do this, it might be a good idea to invest in some inexpensive gold-plated terminals that will allow multiple connections from your positive terminal. Once the positive wire is connected directly to the battery, run it back toward the cabin of the car. Once again, avoid sources of heat, and try to keep the cable away from places that are likely to be splashed by water from the tires. If the cable already has a fuse on it, make sure the fuse stays in the engine compartment.

If the fuse came separately from the main power cable, you are going to have to cut the cable and patch the fuse in using crimps or a soldering gun. Make sure to use the heat-shrink tubing that probably came with the kit to seal off the connection so that water does not get inside. Now you should be able to run the rest of the cable through the firewall. Make sure to use a rubber grommet if there is any chance the insulated wiring might rub on sharp metal. Once inside the car, run the cable underneath the carpeting and back to wherever you have put your amp.

You can now connect both the long positive cable and the short negative cable to the amp. Find a grounding point within range of the negative cable. If none is available, you can make one by drilling a hole in the floor panel/chassis (be absolutely certain about what lies beneath) and using a nut and bolt to connect the ground wire directly to bare metal. If you can, scrape paint off of the metal before you connect it. Make sure you have a good ground, as this will directly affect the quality of your sound. At this point the amp is wired for power. Now it is time for the sound.

If you are using the RCA pre-outs this is as simple as running a patch cable from the back of the head unit to the amp. If you are using a line-level connection, you need to run speaker wire from the outputs on the back of the head unit to the amp. A tip: if you are hooking up your rear speakers and your amp is in the trunk, you can just use the wires that are already there. This is a simple matter of moving them or lengthening them so that they will reach the amp. Whether you are using a line-level or RCA connection, plan the paths of the sound wires so that they do not run parallel to the power wires. It is best to run power wires on one side of the car, and sound wires on the other. Remember to run the remote amp control (if your head unit or amp supports this) at the same time as the sound wires. Because this wire carries very low current, it shouldn’t be a problem if it is parallel to the sound wires.

Finally, run speaker wire of 16 gauge or less from the speaker outputs on the amp to each speaker you wish to power. Connect the speakers, paying attention to the polarity. Now fire up the stereo and test everything out. Sound alright? If you hear distortion, it is probably caused by interference with the sound wires, so make some adjustments to get the best sound quality. If you hear your engine through your speakers as you rev it, this is caused by a bad ground. Once everything sounds good, set the gain control on the amp so that all of your speakers sound even and balanced. Enjoy your new amp!

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Auto safety questions: how nascar safety works

A discussion of NASCAR safety features from the car's construction to the race itself, including the cockpit, regulations, and track features.

In most states, high-speed driving is considered reckless because of safety hazards. Yet stock car races routinely run faster than one hundred miles per hour, and few injuries result from the most violent crashes. When the National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing (NASCAR) was founded in Daytona Beach, Florida, in 1948, it followed only basic safety conventions. As cars have become faster and more powerful, however, safety restrictions have increased accordingly. Today, NASCAR stock cars incorporate aerospace engineering principles to uphold strict safety standards, and safety regulations are followed from the car’s construction until it crosses the finish line.

NASCAR Safety: Car Construction


Stock cars are built to work with the laws of physics and protect the driver’s life during an accident. At high speeds, cars have up to twenty-five times as much energy as normal driving speeds, and that energy translates to between fifty and one hundred times the force of gravity during a crash. To reduce that energy, stock cars are constructed to absorb the impact while at the same time maintaining enough integrity to minimize flying debris.

A stock car’s tires often have different compositions on the left and right sides, with the left, or interior, tires being softer. This allows the car to lean more heavily on that tire during tight turns, reducing the chance of a skid. Some tires also use a safety shield, an inner liner designed to support the car if the outer tire is ripped away. All four tires are tethered to the car to help keep them attached during a crash.

To keep a car from becoming airborne when it spins, roof strips and flaps have been adapted from airplane technology. Roof strips are one-half inch aluminum strips that run lengthwise to keep a car from flipping, and roof flaps are panels near the rear of the roof that operate by aerodynamic pressure to keep the car grounded. When the car spins or turns backwards, the pressure forces those flaps to raise, disrupting the airflow around the car and creating more downward force to increase the tires’ traction. The spoiler, or metal blade, on the rear of the car operates the same way.

On certain race tracks, such as the Daytona International Speedway in Florida and the Talladega Superspeedway in Alabama, cars are required to use engine restrictor plates. These metal plates restrict the airflow and fuel concentration between the carburetor and the engine, forcing the cars to maintain slower speeds. These two tracks are the longest and fastest used by NASCAR, and such safety precautions are necessary for the drivers as well as the spectators. If unchecked, cars on these speedways could easily exceed two hundred miles per hour, and the walls separating the track from the stands could not withstand such impacts. As an additional precaution, many smaller tracks are using softer barrier walls that can absorb more of the impact and cushion the car in the hopes of lessening the severity of many crashes.

The fuel cell in a NASCAR vehicle is superbly reinforced and nearly leak-proof. It is composed of a flexible bladder surrounded by foam and encased in a metal box. This triple layer of protection minimizes fuel spills, potential fires, and explosions that could result from the twenty-two gallons of fuel carried by these race cars.

Other safety features on stock cars include hood pins to keep the hood closed and attached during crashes, as well as an anti-roll bar, or sway bar, beneath the car to increase stability on tight turns. Cars are also equipped with impact data recorders that record forces, change in speeds, and other instrumental information during an accident. That information can be used to improve safety features in all cars and prevent future accidents.

NASCAR Safety: Cockpit Features

While most of a stock car is designed to crush on impact to absorb the shock and energy of a crash, the inner portion of the car, where the driver sits, is reinforced and outfitted with multiple safety features. Because of this interior steel tubing – the roll cage – many drivers walk away from severe crashes unscathed.

The cockpit contains two kill switches the driver can use during an emergency. A master switch shuts down all the electrical components, and the ignition kill switch shuts down the car’s engine. If necessary, either of these switches can be used to help control or eliminate a fire. Additionally, a fire extinguisher is on hand as well as a switch to release fire suppression chemicals and foam into the cockpit. The driver’s suit and gloves are also flame resistant.

The driver’s seat is specially designed to provide extra support for the head, neck, shoulders, and chest. By spreading the area of contact as much as possible, pressure from a crash can be more evenly distributed across the body, decreasing the overall force. NASCAR also mandates the use of head-and-neck restraints to help prevent excessive jostling and potential injuries. Drivers are required to wear helmets, most of which provide full-face coverage with visors using plastics that are found in bullet-proof glass. The seat belts are stronger than those in ordinary cars, and include two shoulder belts, two waist belts, and a fifth strap between the driver’s legs.
To provide additional protection for the roll cage, the cars use sturdy metal plates called firewalls to separate the cockpit from the engine compartment in the front and the fuel cell in the rear. This helps maintain the integrity of the roll cage. The window net prevents the driver’s head or limbs from being exposed to debris. In an accident, the driver must be able to exit the car quickly, and most cars are equipped with clips that allow the windshield to be swiftly removed if necessary. NASCAR is also developing a roof exit system that could assist drivers if the car comes to rest on its side.

NASCAR Safety: Race Regulations

Like any sport, NASCAR follows strict standards designed to safeguard the participants. The first regulation is the use of the pace car – a car that leads the racers for three warm up laps at the beginning of the race. This warms up the engines and tires of the cars, which helps them reach their peak performance and run more safely. Throughout the race, a series of colored flags are used to communicate with all drivers about track conditions: a yellow flag means hold position and proceed cautiously in single file, a red flag is used to stop the race immediately, and a black flag signals a single car to stop immediately. The blue flag with a diagonal yellow stripe is the most common, and is shown to slower drivers to indicate that they are about to be passed by lead lap cars, to whom they must yield.

Every racing team uses a number of spotters, individuals who watch the entire race and communicate with their driver via radio to warn them of debris and help them pass other cars safely. Members of the pit crew service the car when it refuels, and penalties can be assessed against the team if they fail to perform their duties safely, such as failing to install five lug nuts on each wheel.

Even the track itself is designed for safety. Walls, fences, and steel gates are used to protect spectators. Drivers can be given penalties for unsafe driving, including speeding through the pits, such as being forced to return to the pits safely and come to a complete stop for a full second. While it may not seem like a long penalty, it can easily cost a driver his position in the race. When leaving the pits, drivers must stay below the blend line that connects pit road to the first turn, allowing them to merge safely back into the speeding traffic. This insures that they can accelerate appropriately without forcing other cars to swerve.

Today, NASCAR is not only the fastest moving sport in America, but it is also the fastest growing. From roof flaps to the roll cage to the yellow caution flag, NASCAR focuses on safety for both the participating teams and the spectators. These regulations lead not only to more exciting races with few injuries, but also to safer passenger cars as stock car standards are introduced to regular vehicles. Whether in the pits at Daytona or the driveways of America, NASCAR is working to make all driving a little safer.

Auto questions: how car engines work

Car engines, also known as internal combustion engines, are designed to do one thing well- turn a crankshaft.

Car engines have a lot in common with electric motors- they both perform one task very well. Both systems are designed to cause a shaft to spin. The force generated by that spinning shaft may be re-routed to perform other functions, but that is the only specific job of a motor or engine. The amazing engineering involved with a car's engine lies more in how that spinning force is achieved.

A car's engine is properly defined as an 'internal combustion engine'. This means that the motor burns its fuel source within its own housing. Other systems designed to turn a shaft (such as a mechanized pulley) may rely on outside fuel sources to run, but a modern car engine is completely self-contained. The combustion of a gasoline/air mixture creates all the energy a car's engine requires.

But how does an engine generate power? It starts with the fuel source. A very powerful chemical compound called gasoline is stored in a holding tank until needed. When a driver places a key into the ignition, an electrical system is activated. Of primary importance is the powerful electric battery stored securely near the engine. When a key is turned, power from this battery goes to a starter assembly. This is basically a strong electric motor with a large gear (bendix) located in front. The starter's gear meshes with a very large gear connected to the shaft assembly of the engine itself.

As the starter starts to spin the flywheel, a mixture of filtered air and atomized gas is sprayed into a series of cylinders located on the top of the engine housing. This gas mixture is ignited by ceramic spark generators (plugs) located at the top of each cylinder. A car may have 8 or more of these cylinders, so they obviously cannot be ignited at the same time. The idea is to stagger the explosions so that each cylinder pushed down on a valve and piston in a precise order. This is accomplished primarily by a distributor- a device that electronically controls the order of sparking. As the gas in each cylinder explodes, the 'floor' of the chamber is pushed down forcefully. This is actually the top of a piston which is connected to the engine's main shaft. Ideally, each piston pushes down on the shaft just ahead of the next one. The shaft itself is designed with protuberances that mechanically force the pistons back up. This action is much like a bicycle pedal being forced back to the top as the opposite pedal is pushed by the rider. The pistons do their work on the down strokes while the crankshaft forces them back up on the upstrokes. Waste fumes from the original explosion are forced out of the cylinder as the piston returns upwards, and the entire cycle is repeated.

The result of all these pistons bearing down is a spinning crankshaft. This main crankshaft has several gear assemblies attached to it, such as a belt drive that powers the car's electrical and coolant systems. Heat generated by the exploding gasoline and the friction of the pistons rubbing against the metal engine must be controlled. The water pump mechanically forces water and special engine coolant to circulate around the engine block. The ultra-hot water is then recycled through a radiator, which dissipates the heat by spreading it over a large surface area. Cooler water is then recirculated into the engine block.

Another gear assembly from the engine's main shaft meshes with another shaft designed to change the direction of the spin. This is called the transmission, and it is vital for the car's intended purpose of transportation. The connection from the engine to the transmission must be maintained nearly perfectly or else the gears will fall out of alignment and destroy the transmission. The transmission directs the power from the engine to two more sets of shafts called the transaxels. These geared shafts redirect the direction of the spin once more, which allows the tires to move forward and backwards with enough torque to overcome the inertia of a stationary car and create some momentum.

A car's engine could theoretically run forever as long as it had a fuel source and electrical power for ignition. But most engines eventually wear out because of friction and stress. Engine oil helps to keep the valves and pistons lubricated, but eventually leaks develop around critical seals and the engine becomes less efficient. Spark plugs can also become fouled with excess carbon generated by the gasoline, and transmission parts may become damaged over time. An internal combustion is an amazing feat of engineering because the entire system can move with the machinery it powers.